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My take on slots is that I punch the hole top and bottom, then use my round knife to connect the holes. Works pretty well. Although I'm seriously considering looking into a better punch. The one I bought from Springfield is way too narrow.

Also, on the holster. Looks a bit dull finish wise. If that's what you are going for, that's fine. Matter of fact, my finish process now results in a more dull finish but I like the process better. If you wanted to shine it up a bit you can use neutral shoe polish to do it. I used to use mop and glo, cheap version of resoleen, but it was hit or miss on my grooned holsters. Some were great, some were terrible.

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This holser has been a pain in the... to get a finish on everything either dulls or gets white cracks. Doesn't seem to matter how thin I put the finish on. Didn't have a problem on the practice pieces tho

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Posted (edited)

This holser has been a pain in the... to get a finish on everything either dulls or gets white cracks. Doesn't seem to matter how thin I put the finish on. Didn't have a problem on the practice pieces tho

I had a problem like that too with groon, neatsfoot oil didn't even seem to want to soak in. I used mop n glo with no issues on dyed rigs, but get thr cracking on the grooned stuff. So on thr groon I use a 50/50 mixture of beeswax and neatsfoot oil by weight melted together slowly and allowed to cool. Once cooled it can be applied with your fingers and rubbed in, I'll hit it with the heat gun lighty so it soaks in, then if I want to shine it up I'll use Kiwi neutral shoe polish on it. No cracking then on my grooned stuff. Hope this helps. I do wonder if one could use just the Kiwi though.

Nice rig btw

Edited by J Hayes
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Thanks for the tip. Looks like I'll have to makes a stop by the store tomorrow and pick up some beeswax. Already have neatsfoot oil so good to go when I get the wax.

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Posted (edited)
So on thr groon I use a 50/50 mixture of beeswax and neatsfoot oil by weight melted together slowly and allowed to cool.

I've gone completely to this on my all leather stuff. I was getting cracks too. The only thing I found that helped was to let the holster dry for 24 hours after every step where it was wet. Groon, baking soda bath, rinse, dry 24. Oil, dry 24. Finish, dry 24 X2. But that was not 100% either, just better.

I have also noticed with the beeswax and oil I need to turn my heat gun on high to get the pores on the leather to open up after grooning and take the wax/oil mix. With dye it will all soak in on low. Basically, the groon nearly waterproofs it by itself.

Edited by chiefjason

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