wyomingcowboy Report post Posted July 24, 2013 Here is my latest project. You can see some stitch length variation in sposts and how I missed the groove in a few places. The machine does pretty good! I just wish I knew how the stitch length gets off the way it does and how to fix it. This is with 207 top thread and bobbin. I got my 138 thread in the mail but have yet to try it out. Not sure I like the white color with this project, but that's another topic...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wyomingcowboy Report post Posted July 24, 2013 more..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
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wyomingcowboy Report post Posted July 24, 2013 last one. I know this isn't the show off forum but I'm open to critique/ help/ hints. Especially when it comes to machine setup. Thanks guys! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) Your square drive machine is not square driving, or else the needle is flexing too much. Check the needle feeding system for excessive slack. Make sure that the presser foot lifts completely off the leather until the feed motion comes to a halt. It must not be down as the needle is feeding. Edited July 24, 2013 by Wizcrafts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted July 24, 2013 Hi, not that bad. I see some errors mainly in conjunction with corners. A stitch can get loose when you lift the foot and during the advancing of the needle. Take car your needle is down and bit past B.D.C (so the hook has grabbed the thread) before lifting the foot. Try to increase the foot pressure and thread tension a bit. Did you find the stitch length regulator, to me it looks lite you can adjust the travel of the arm that moves side ways (on the back of the machine). I you get hold of a Luberto manual I am sure you can use it. Steve (Singermania), I am sure you are able to help him out a bit here. If you disregards the top needle guide than looks like a foot, it should be like the other similar machines. Tor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wyomingcowboy Report post Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) I know how to adjust the stitch length. It's a little dial on the front. The problem is that even if I don't move it the length still varies occasionally. I will try to do as you have said and see if I can figure it out. I'll have to adjust the tension of both the top and bobbin thread, huh? If I tighten the top thread tension now it just starts to pull the bobbin thread all the way up through the hole. I'm starting to run out of heavier veg tan to practice on! Edited July 24, 2013 by wyomingcowboy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wyomingcowboy Report post Posted July 24, 2013 Your square drive machine is not square driving, or else the needle is flexing too much. Check the needle feeding system for excessive slack. Make sure that the presser foot lifts completely off the leather until the feed motion comes to a halt. It must not be down as the needle is feeding. What is a square drive machine? Also - the mechanisms need lubed. What would you all suggest I use? I'm afraid to use WD-40 or similar as it might not last long enough and I'm afraid oil will drip onto things that it shouldn't be on. That leaves grease. Thoughts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted July 24, 2013 I use white sewing machine oil, it does not stain. WD 40 might contain some harmful acids used for cleaning. A little drip in each lube point before use, just enough to get a small film between the metal surfaces. I believe the Square drive is the motion of the needle feed on your machine. Did you find the adjustment of the jump foot? I have an Old Adler class 5 with a jump foot, I used it before I bought my 441. It did not have any needle feed only bottom feed and a spring loaded jumpfoot. You was suppose to adjust the foot so it just clears the material and could advance freely forward again. Without clearing the material it would not feed, to much clearance did not really matter anything on that machine. Your machine have a jump foot that just go up and down (It looks like it). To compare it to a regular needle feed (like my Adler 204-64), where the foot stays down on the material all the time. It hard to see from the video. However, It might be important that the height of the jump foot is correctly set, because of the square drive timing. The foot must keep the material from moving when the needle advances forward. To test it I would take some wegtan leather 1/4 to 1/3 " thick and sew in a long straight line ( 12 to 20 " or more). Sew with the motor and in the same speed all the time (remember to hold down your thread ends tight in the start). Then you will be able to see if it is the machine or operator caused uneven stitches. Change settings and do a new parallel line until it looks good (make notes) If the lines look good, do some turns, use the method of elimination. Always use a new right size needle, trow away all old needles. A bad needle is responsible of the major of stitch errors. Like Wiz said, check for play in the needle bar and loose screws etc. Good luck Tor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Nelson Report post Posted July 25, 2013 If my memory serves me correct, the folks at Ferdco developed the #9. Luberto designed the Classic and manufactured it. I am not sure when the 6/6 come into being. I have one coming and as I have had 2 classics in the past I am anxious to compare. I have always wanted to try a Pearson 6 but have not had the chance. Both of the Classics I had would pull a really good stitch and were easy to operate. I hope this 6/6 is as good. I shall post my opinions after I give it a test run. Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DavidMillsSaddlery Report post Posted February 21, 2020 On 7/24/2013 at 5:17 PM, wyomingcowboy said: I know how to adjust the stitch length. It's a little dial on the front. The problem is that even if I don't move it the length still varies occasionally. I will try to do as you have said and see if I can figure it out. I'll have to adjust the tension of both the top and bobbin thread, huh? If I tighten the top thread tension now it just starts to pull the bobbin thread all the way up through the hole. I'm starting to run out of heavier veg tan to practice on! I know this is an old thread, but I’ve got this machine now as well! (Not his) but one like it! there are three places top tension can be adjusted... 1 far right coming off the spool. 2 the second or middle disk that thread loops around... 3 is on the needle bar just above the left of the needle... where the thread runs through the flat bar... stitch length is adjusted by the big black knob, then needs to be set and locked in the back with the bolt that bumps up to it! as far as your stitching, this machine isn’t set up for the intricate turns you’re making! I’d suggest a compound feed walking foot to do the tooled leather... I use a 153w103. if you’ve ever seen the movie “8 Seconds” you’ll see my name in the credits as one of the chap makers... David Mills Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
