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Posted

I made this for my brother. Kimber Solo. It is my first ever modern holster. It is covered in cognac Ostrich with a burgundy/brown Ostrich Leg reinforcement piece.

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I shipped it to him in a cigar box I bought at a flea market ($2) solid Spanish Cedar

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If you can see it I added an extra stitch line closer to the trigger guard.

I hand molded it, then used a vacuum clothing bag to vacuum mold it as I used a bone creaser to work the leather tighter into the bluegun.

Anyone work with Ostrich? Any suggestions to remove fur from back. I used a tabletop belt sander with shop vac to remove the fur. Also, when I started to dye the edge of the reinforcement piece, the dye soaked into the ostrich leg. Any suggestions to prevent that from happening?

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Posted

Looks great! I've never worked with ostrich, but you can use a black permanent marker on the edges. Obviously, it doesn't soak in as well, but it gives a nice, clean line and won't bleed like dye will. I usually use a marker on the edge to get a nice clean transition, then I'll fill in the rest of the area with a dauber - just make sure you don't have too much dye on the dauber or you'll risk more bleeding.

  • Members
Posted (edited)

Thanks guys.

I wanted to send it in a nice box and the cigar box was much nicer than ones I found at hobby stores (and a LOT cheaper)

Particle. I tried a marker on scrap piece and it did bleed in. Ostrich leg apparently is very absorbent. About the only thing that prevented bleeding was to use 50/50 diluted resolene. Seemed to prevent bleeding but still allowed to dye. Will experiment more with that before I try it on a holster again.

Edited by PAMuzzle
  • Members
Posted

Are you burnishing the edges at all prior to applying your edge dye? I guess I forgot to mention that. I always burnish my edges first by dampening them with water, then sanding them smooth, then rubbing my burnishing stick over the edge. Once it dries, then I dye the edge. Give that a try and see if it helps.

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Posted

Yes. I burnished them first.

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