Members supercub Posted June 5, 2013 Members Report Posted June 5, 2013 Stainless steel t nuts and and screws. I believe the stainless is a bit stronger than the standard hardware store stuff. Use 8/32, and get an undercut head, McMaster Carr sells them. The undercut head is the key, it allows the screw to get deep enough in the snap post to not interfere with the socket, look at a Bianchi holster sometime. Also the 8/32 will obviously be stronger than the 6/32. I use a 3/8" length screw and really tighen it tight tight. Just my .02 Oh and I also clip my t nuts just as Billsotx posted, shortens the bur and sharpens it to more easily penetrate the leather. Do you have a part number for the 8/32 screws from McMaster Carr? Seems like every 8/32 screw I've tried (obtained locally) is just a hair too big to fit inside the snap stud and work reliably - even when using the pull the dot snaps. I'd much prefer to use 8/32 screws rather than 6/32 - can use Chicago screw posts as well as t nuts to attach the hardware. Thanks Quote
Members J Hayes Posted June 5, 2013 Members Report Posted June 5, 2013 I believe the p/n is 91099A260 for the 8/32 x 3/8 phillips flat undercut machine screw Quote
Members supercub Posted June 5, 2013 Members Report Posted June 5, 2013 I believe the p/n is 91099A260 for the 8/32 x 3/8 phillips flat undercut machine screw Thanks, this should save a lot of head scratching and frustration. Quote
Members saddlertime Posted June 13, 2013 Members Report Posted June 13, 2013 Just to clear up something that may cause some confusion, the "undercut head" is not the head diameter that is smaller. The term "undercut" pertains to the part under the head near the threads. The bottom part of the head is shorter so that the screw can have more threads. This is typically done for small length flat head machine screws because the length of a flat head machine screw is from tip to tail so to speak where as a button head screw length is only the threaded portion. For example this link shows a #8-32x3/8" Non-undercut screw: http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/96640a123/=n6h4ng This link shows a #8-32x1/4" undercut screw: http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/96640a122/=n6h5pl You can see that the head diameter is still 0.312", but it is only 0.070" thick rather than 0.100" like the standard screw. I just wanted to make sure that it is clear that if the snap ID is too small for the OD of the screw head, an undercut head won't help. If the screw head isn't seating down deep enough into the socket, then the undercut head may be your solution Quote
Boriqua Posted July 31, 2013 Report Posted July 31, 2013 I must be the dumbest guy in the room because with all the great advice and pictures on this thread I am still confused. I have set my t-nuts between the leather. The leather I am using is 8-9. So you can see in the pic how high the t-nut shaft sticks out of the leather. Now if I understand I am simply supposed to cut my strap, make my holes, slip the strap over the shaft of the t-nut and tighten down the 6/32 screws I bought. But here is the question. The shaft on my snap back is actually longer than the shaft of the t-nut so why not just set the snap the way you normally would without using the t-nut? Alex Quote
Members supercub Posted July 31, 2013 Members Report Posted July 31, 2013 But here is the question. The shaft on my snap back is actually longer than the shaft of the t-nut so why not just set the snap the way you normally would without using the t-nut? Alex The reason I use the t-nut rather than the snap post is that it gives you the option to replace worn out straps, or to substitute longer or shorter straps when wearing different width belts. By using the snap post you are pretty much stuck with one size belt loop. Nothing wrong with that, the t-nut just gives a little more flexibility. Quote
Members NoName Posted August 19, 2013 Members Report Posted August 19, 2013 Thank you J Hayes for the quality of information. (without the display of ego) Quote Diapers and Politicians should be changed often... Both for the same reason!
RMB Custom Leather Posted August 19, 2013 Report Posted August 19, 2013 (edited) I always shorten the prongs of the t-nuts before I install them; just clip them with a pair of farrier nippers or wire cutters (dikes, dykes, diagonal pliers, whatever you prefer to call them) and you won't have them poking through the leather. If you're making an IWB like the Bruce Nelson Summer Special you don't want the t-nut marring the gun's finish. I do the same thing because it leaves just enough to lock into the leather so it doesn't move. I am still looking for some prongs that are less than 1/4". Edited August 19, 2013 by RMB Custom Leather Quote Thank you, Rob Bennett Email: rob@rmbcl.com Authorized Distributor BLUEGUNS Multi Molds Maker Supplies Home of the "Taco Press" kydex/Leather former FREE SHIPPING! FACEBOOK
Members DaltonMasterson Posted August 22, 2013 Members Report Posted August 22, 2013 Are any of you using the leather stand-off pieces like Milt Sparks? It seems all of you are just attaching the strap directly to the holster, without that piece. Any advantage or disadvantage? DM Quote Specializing in holsters of the 1800s. http://www.freewebs.com/daltonmasterson/plumcreekleatherworks.htm
Members glockanator Posted August 22, 2013 Author Members Report Posted August 22, 2013 I add a snall square piece that goes between the strap and holster. I acutally glue it to.thebstrap.so it doesnt get lost. Quote
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