Rebirth Of A Singer 211G155

[gottaknow]

Eric,

When do you find time to do leatherwork?

Heh...yeah, needless to say I keep busy. I actually started two holsters this week. Both are pancakes for semi's, one for myself and one for a co-worker. I was actually searching the holster forum for more tidbits of info. Odd that I have lots of machines available, but I'm getting a kick out of hand stitching.

Honestly Wiz, I enjoy my job so much when I was a new mechanic, I usually had a machine head on the kitchen table I worked on at night. Take 'em apart, put back together, repeat. Even the years I spent as a plant manager, I still worked on machines every chance I got. We are pursuing a patent as well right now on a machine I engineered that saves 50% of the labor on a particular type of seam. If I get bored with all that, I'm an artist, guitar player, sew and fly kites, and still have a locksmith license. Like you, I do really enjoy helping folks with what I know.

Regards, Eric

[gottaknow]

As for the hook timing, it's dependant on the top and bottom shafts being in time. Many people skip this important first step. You can certainly time the hook as I've done, but the machine won't sew good long term in a variety of conditions. That said, I always check shaft timing first unless it's a machine I've already worked on.

I've included the basic ideas right on the pictures attatched. I'll just outline the process here and attatch the pics.

I set the needle bar height, (which in this case meant lowering it back down to use the 135x16's.) I had to come up with a new timing mark since the needle bar carrier had been cut off to use the longer 190's. Once that was done, it was pretty standard.

Set the stitch length to 0. Turn handwheel towards me until needle bar is all the way down then raise to the lower timing mark on the needle bar. This places the needle where I will time the hook to. If at some point it gets moved, simply re-adjust. I then move the guard out of my way so I can move the hook saddle tight enough to just barely touch the needle. I set the rotational timing after that, which on 211's is slightly retarded (hook point is lower on the needle). I then move the guard back to push the needle to the left, protecting the needle and more important the point of the hook. Mia's hook was nice and sharp, but I did replace the bobbin basket. The rotation timing is set by loosening the two set screws on the gear that sets on the lower main shaft. Moving this left and right will advance or retard the timing as you need. Note that one of the screws is in a V groove in the shaft. Make sure it stays there. The gear is tapped left or right on the shaft as needed. Tighten them good. Check everything several times and make sure it's how you want it.

Regards, Eric

[gottaknow]

One of the things I checked for was the up and down play in the feed dog carrier. It's common with older walking foot machines to have excessive play here. They take a real pounding. Fortunate that Singer made the eccentric on the lower shaft harder than the guide. Checking from underneath, there was almost about 3/32" up and down movement. During sewing, I could feel a bit of a chatter. This is a part that contains a felt pad that needs to be kept oiled. I put in a new one and then oiled it good. The screw that mounts this is also the screw that sets the height of the feed dogs, so that was done by setting the valleys between the teeth level with the throat plate when the feed dogs are all the way up. The pictures show the location and the wear in the old piece.

Regards, Eric

[gottaknow]

I think this machine is anxious to get back to it's owner. All packed up and ready to hit the road. I've done the final sew off with the original materials I was furnished. Two layers of a really nice garment leather, and two layer of heavy blanket. It started out 1/2" to 5/8" uncompressed and measured really close to 3/8" sewn. That approaching the limits of this machine. Much heavier and you'd want something with a shuttle hook and higher lift. Again, the machine can be made to sew more, but they perform best when kept to their intended use. I used Groz Beckert 135X16 needles, size 22 with their DI/DIA leather point. They worked great for all that I sewed and for fun I sewed 12 layers of heavy denim that we're making jeans out of. You can certainly hem a pair of jeans with a leather needle if you don't mind some needle cutting, but Groz Beckert makes needles just for denim with their RG point that are titanium coated to run cooler with little needle cutting.

Regards, Eric

[miaoreo]

Awesome Eric! That looks wonderful... I can't imagine sewing anything much thicker... and if I do I will be shopping for a new machine.( you know who....) cant wait to get it, and start sewing again.

Cannot thank you enough.

Mia

[gottaknow]

I failed to mention the tension release on this machine. Most machines have a direct link between the height of the presser foot and the tension release. Get the foot on thick material, the disk opens a bit, and you get loops on the bottom.

The 211G155 uses a great design where to release the tension. It's independant of the height of the presser foot while sewing, as long as you're not lifting the foot manually. That is of course if it's adjusted correctly and stuff hasn't been modified. On most machines, you have to move the tension unit and check spring in or out to set your opening timing. It's hard to show with a picture, perhaps I'll get the parts manual and show the details. In any event, this solves a very common problem with loose tension.

Regards, Eric

[pcox]

Thanks Eric for this great series. I got a 211g155 last week for $20 It had been in a flood then sat for 3 years. Your post have been very helpful. I finished the machine today finial sew off was 1/2 inch of veg tan. sewed great but that is the max. It sews 7/16 much easier. The only mods was I added a 6 inch drive pulley with a2 inch pulley on a gear reduction servo motor and removed the bottom thread guide on the needle bar so it didn't hit the foot. Using #24 needle, 207 on top 138 in the bobbin. Thanks again Eric, wonderful for you to share your knowledge.

[gottaknow]

Thanks Eric for this great series. I got a 211g155 last week for $20 It had been in a flood then sat for 3 years. Your post have been very helpful. I finished the machine today finial sew off was 1/2 inch of veg tan. sewed great but that is the max. It sews 7/16 much easier. The only mods was I added a 6 inch drive pulley with a2 inch pulley on a gear reduction servo motor and removed the bottom thread guide on the needle bar so it didn't hit the foot. Using #24 needle, 207 on top 138 in the bobbin. Thanks again Eric, wonderful for you to share your knowledge.

I'm glad it was helpful. It sounds like you're getting what the machine's capable of. A speed reducer and servo is a great addition. As for sharing information, it's something I enjoy doing and helping folks out. I'm still perfecting my craft. I'm starting an apprentice soon at the factory, it's about a five year process before they are "factory" ready. The apparel business is making a comeback in the US. We've been hiring steadily. I answered 37 calls for service today.

Regards, Eric

[suzelle]

Fabulous Eric! Your knowledge is very much appreciated. Very kind of you to share. Also, very glad the apparel business is making a comback i the U.S., that is great news!

[gottaknow]

Here's a bump for this thread RoosterShooter asked me about. I can't seem to paste links or quotes from other threads, so I bumped it.

Regards, Eric