What Machine For Sewing Gusset Corners On Messenger Bags?

[najram2007]

Im looking for a cylinder arm machine that is best for sew messenger bag gusset corners. Any ideas? I understand a cylinder arm is the best option but which one im not sure. The leather is a 7-8oz in the picture below. Also what attachments are the best to use?? Presser feet?? Seam Guides?? needle plates??

Edited June 5, 2013 by najram2007

[PcCowboy]

I use my Adler 205-370 with the curve plate (table) installed.

[najram2007]

Thanks PcCowboy. The 205 look like a good machine for the job. The cylinder is about 80mm? How do you go around a smaller radius? Do you use a different needle plate?

[PcCowboy]

I make round bottom leather bags for a company once in a while and that is my main experience with sewing round gussets. The bottoms are 10 1/2 inche circles. I have sewn a few purses with round gussets, about 1" radius in each corner, and it was hard and you had to be careful. It comes with a half moon needle plate and a flat one.

[tnawrot2]

You could use a 441clone

, Cobra 4 or a Cowboy 4500, with a stirrup plate for small radius.

[najram2007]

I was considering a 441 and 205 with a stirrup plate. Ive been reading that its really hard to get the tension right for the stirrup plate. But im sure there are stirrup plate users out there who don't have any trouble with it. its all about persistence I guess. How about grinding down the front of the presser feet and have the work above the machine instead of below. Will this work??

[Jimbob]

I use an Adler 105-64 and rounded head plate....been making many of these kind of bags over the last 4 years...

[silverwingit]

I just took a look at your web site, Jimbob -- very impressive! What machine do you use for your holsters, shoulder bags and pouches? Thanks, your new fan, Michelle

[Trox]

I was considering a 441 and 205 with a stirrup plate. Ive been reading that its really hard to get the tension right for the stirrup plate. But im sure there are stirrup plate users out there who don't have any trouble with it. its all about persistence I guess. How about grinding down the front of the presser feet and have the work above the machine instead of below. Will this work??

You need to back off the top tension quite a bit on the 441, because of the extra height of the needle plate (the thread loops get longer). However, it not difficult to get right.

I reduced the height of my Cowboy stirrup plate a bit, it made the machine much easier to adjust and reduced stitch errors with this plate. You best use the left or right harness foot for the job, they do not need any modification.

Machines with lower duty rating (upholstery class triple feed cyl. bed`s) who are good for the job are; Pfaff 335, Adler 69 (clones of these narrow arm machines). Adler 169, 269 and above (Ø 80 mm arm) with a bag plate. All kinds of feet's available for these machines.

Older heavy stitcher's : Adler 205- 25 MO and Adler 105- 25 MO (and more; top feed with small stirrup/bag plate and heavy threads)

Tor

[Andrew Chee]

There's a couple of this you ideally need to do to make a good gusset. You have to skive the gusset piece so it bends more than the main panels. Then you should use contact glue to assemble the pieces before sewing. I use a 441 clone with a stirrup plate and it works fine. I don't need to readjust my tension at all, just the stitch length. After you sew it, you sand the edges until they are even and any residual glue is gone. Then you finish the edges. Looks like you might have tried to out in a liner in your pic. Unless the liner is leather, it won't work cause fabric will fray over time. Hope that helps.

Andrew