gainesvilleman Report post Posted June 15, 2013 I am new to using a sewing machine, I make leather holsters and have been doing them by hand. Due to arthritis problems I bought a PFAFF 1245 color is white, I have tried to use #207 on top and #138 or #92 on the bobbin, my problem is no matter what thread I use on top it keeps breaking or bunching up at the needle. The machine has a servo motor so I am going very slow, when it is not breaking the thread the stitch is very good the timing seems fine. I sew 7-8 oz. leather veg/tanned. When I go in reverse the top thread breaks right away. If any one could give me some advise it would greatly appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted June 15, 2013 (edited) I am new to using a sewing machine, I make leather holsters and have been doing them by hand. Due to arthritis problems I bought a PFAFF 1245 color is white, I have tried to use #207 on top and #138 or #92 on the bobbin, my problem is no matter what thread I use on top it keeps breaking or bunching up at the needle. The machine has a servo motor so I am going very slow, when it is not breaking the thread the stitch is very good the timing seems fine. I sew 7-8 oz. leather veg/tanned. When I go in reverse the top thread breaks right away. If any one could give me some advise it would greatly appreciated. Are you matching needle and thread size? Here is a chart http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Is the needle in the right direction, and threaded from the correct side? Thread should enter on the side of the needle with the long groove. Tom Edited June 15, 2013 by northmount Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ferg Report post Posted June 15, 2013 Double check your tension settings. Remember: Your stitch is only as strong as the "Least" of your thread. ferg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gainesvilleman Report post Posted June 16, 2013 Thank you both Tom & Ferg, I am using a 140/22 leather point needle, and I do thread it correctly. I have read in the forum that some people are using a 25 needle, I thought I would try that also. I have checked the tension, and from what I can see there is no top thread on the bottom and no bottom thread on the top, so I thought the tension was ok? But I will play with the tension and see if that is the problem. This forum is great for newcomers like myself, I have learned a lot and hope to learn a lot more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted June 16, 2013 It could be that you have BOTH tensions set too high...which would keep the knot in the middle, but could be too much for the bobbin thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted July 30, 2013 Did you check the needle? Sounds like you have it turned 180 wrong. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gainesvilleman Report post Posted July 30, 2013 The direction of the needle scarf is toward the hook, it picks up fine, the timing seems to be good also. Thanks Stu... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sunman05 Report post Posted August 12, 2013 I have a Juki-LU562. No matter fast or slow, I get a big knotty mess near the bobbin. I'm just learning to use it and getting teed-off! What methods are advisable? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RiverCity Report post Posted August 12, 2013 Are you holding the top and bottom threads straight back and taught for the first couple of stitches? Chuck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sunman05 Report post Posted August 12, 2013 No Straight back or is to the side okay? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sunman05 Report post Posted August 12, 2013 Also, thinking of going with a servo motor. This clutch takes off like a hot rod. Is 3/4hp enough,(550w)? Brushless or with brushes? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted August 12, 2013 No Straight back or is to the side okay? Either, as long as you aren't pulling the needle too. Depends on what you are sewing as to where you can hold onto the thread. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted August 12, 2013 (edited) Also, thinking of going with a servo motor. This clutch takes off like a hot rod. Is 3/4hp enough,(550w)? Brushless or with brushes? Clutch takes a lot of practice to be able to feather it so it slips the right amount for the speed you want to go. So, yes a servo is a big help. Digital servos (no brushes) have some programming options. Analog servos (brush type) aren't programmable (generally). Brush type, you need to check the brushes periodically. The more you use the machine, the more often they need checked. If you are sewing thick leather, you might want to consider a servo with 3:1 built in gear reduction. Will have more torque available at lower speeds. Something like the SewPro at Toledo Industrial Sewing machines. This will help if you need really slow for some of your work. If you need slower yet, add a speed reducer pulley. I did both on my machine. 3:1 at the servo, and 3:1 at the speed reducer pulley, so have 9:1 reduction. The machine will do from 3 seconds for 1 stitch to somewhere around 200-300 stitches per minute. Good for a slow guy like me. HP or wattage should be at least as large as the clutch motor (unless you add speed reducers). The clutch motor has some momentum to get the machine moving. Servo starts from zero. Tom Edited August 12, 2013 by northmount Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sunman05 Report post Posted August 12, 2013 Where did you buy the gear reduction? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gainesvilleman Report post Posted August 12, 2013 I went from a clutch to a servo, wow what a difference it made. I now have total control and if I ldo want to go faster all I have to do is turn the knob and it will go faster. I only use the slow speen anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted August 12, 2013 Where did you buy the gear reduction? Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines ... As noted. See banner ads at the top of this page. Refresh until you get Toledo ... Bob Kovar, also known as Cowboy Bob on this forum. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sunman05 Report post Posted August 12, 2013 If anyone need a copy of the Juki LU-562/LU-563 instruction manual, Let me know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biglew Report post Posted September 23, 2013 Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines ... As noted. See banner ads at the top of this page. Refresh until you get Toledo ... Bob Kovar, also known as Cowboy Bob on this forum. I just want to Add that he is a great guy!! He has helped me several times and I love going to his shop....A ton of new and used machines and so many kewl things to look at! I truly appreciate his help and knowledge. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave1 Report post Posted February 9, 2017 Gainesvilleman...your description you may have a burr on your hook...... your check spring may be holding on to long your bobbin case opener may not be opening enough, or not releasing in time to allow the top thread to pass. it really seems that there is a sharp spot... If your needle barr is to low the hook flange will deflect the thread if the needle barr is to high the hook its self could be cutting the thread......Check your needle barr height/ where the hook crosses the eye of the needle ..your friend Dave1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
