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Posted (edited)

Also, thinking of going with a servo motor. This clutch takes off like a hot rod. Is 3/4hp enough,(550w)? Brushless or with brushes?

Clutch takes a lot of practice to be able to feather it so it slips the right amount for the speed you want to go. So, yes a servo is a big help.

Digital servos (no brushes) have some programming options. Analog servos (brush type) aren't programmable (generally).

Brush type, you need to check the brushes periodically. The more you use the machine, the more often they need checked.

If you are sewing thick leather, you might want to consider a servo with 3:1 built in gear reduction. Will have more torque available at lower speeds. Something like the SewPro at Toledo Industrial Sewing machines. This will help if you need really slow for some of your work. If you need slower yet, add a speed reducer pulley. I did both on my machine. 3:1 at the servo, and 3:1 at the speed reducer pulley, so have 9:1 reduction. The machine will do from 3 seconds for 1 stitch to somewhere around 200-300 stitches per minute. Good for a slow guy like me.

HP or wattage should be at least as large as the clutch motor (unless you add speed reducers). The clutch motor has some momentum to get the machine moving. Servo starts from zero.

Tom

Edited by northmount
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Posted

I went from a clutch to a servo, wow what a difference it made. I now have total control and if I ldo want to go faster all I have to do is turn the knob and it will go faster. I only use the slow speen anyway.

Posted

Where did you buy the gear reduction?

Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines ... As noted. See banner ads at the top of this page. Refresh until you get Toledo ... Bob Kovar, also known as Cowboy Bob on this forum.

Tom

  • 1 month later...
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Posted

Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines ... As noted. See banner ads at the top of this page. Refresh until you get Toledo ... Bob Kovar, also known as Cowboy Bob on this forum.

I just want to Add that he is a great guy!! He has helped me several times and I love going to his shop....A ton of new and used machines and so many kewl things to look at!

I truly appreciate his help and knowledge.

  • 3 years later...
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Posted

Gainesvilleman...your description   you may have a burr on your hook...... your check spring may be holding on to long     your bobbin case opener may not be opening enough, or not releasing in time to allow the top thread to pass.  it really seems that there is a sharp spot... If your needle barr is to low the hook flange will deflect the thread   if the needle barr is to high the hook its self could be cutting the thread......Check your needle barr height/ where the hook crosses the eye of the needle ..your friend Dave1 

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