A Cartridge Belt Question I Dont Think This Has Been Addressed

[Boriqua]

I know there are many cartridge belt threads and tutorials and have decided to proceed with the loop and belt punch method. My problem is when do you apply finish. The things I have read say make sure the loop leather is good and wet. but everyone's loops are nice and have varying degrees of "shinyness". I am using Beeswax and neatsfoot paste. So when do I apply it? If I do it before I wet it wont the finish get destroyed once I wet it?

Thanks brothers

Alex

[renegadelizard]

you want it wet to form it, after it is dry ypu can apply your finish.

[camano ridge]

Actualy wether the bullet loop strip is damp or dry is one of those discussions of what is better a .45 or a nine mm. That side I always put my final finish on after i have all my loops in place. I do a finger tip application of my finish the use a soft rag to buff. If the loop strip is to be dyed I dye first apply neats foot oil allow the oil to migrate into the leather until the leather is supple enough that it won't crack whe being bent around the cartridges. Then put the final finish on as stated above.

Edited July 2, 2013 by camano ridge

[renegadelizard]

i should probably clarify, i use horsehide for bullet loops..it has to be pretty wet to form without cracking...and i leave the casing in the loops til they are almost dry

[Dwight]

i should probably clarify, i use horsehide for bullet loops..it has to be pretty wet to form without cracking...and i leave the casing in the loops til they are almost dry

I try to use calf skin when I can get it, . . . but otherwise, . . . our processes are the same.

Once they are almost dry, . . . I slip out the cartridges, . . . VERY CAREFULLY, . . . and finish assembly of the belt.

Once it is all assembled, . . . it gets dip dyed.

24+ hours later, . . . I'll begin to add the beeswax / neatsfoot oil paste, . . . using the cake itself, rubbing it on / in / over / above, etc, . . . interspersing light touches with a heat gun to help melt the wax into the belt and the loops.

I usually allow it to dry for several hours after that, . . . then give it the "buffing". Sometimes I only buff it lightly it for a softer look, . . . sometimes I buff the heck out of it for a "polished" look.

For my CCW customers, . . . I almost always do Resolene, . . . but for my old west gunslinger pards, . . . it's beeswax and neatsfoot oil only.

May God bless,

Dwight

[renegadelizard]

why calf skin?...Rusty at springfield turned me onto using horsehide, and i have to say, once its formed, they dont flatten...ever...you would almost have to stand on it to get it to smoosh....

[Dwight]

why calf skin?...Rusty at springfield turned me onto using horsehide, and i have to say, once its formed, they dont flatten...ever...you would almost have to stand on it to get it to smoosh....

Good question, . . . maybe not so good an answer.

A friend loaned me his 3 VHS tape set on how to make holsters featuring John Bianchi. It was all about making a western rig, . . . and John spcified in his teaching that the cartridge loops needed to be of calf skin.

Why? I really don't know. I have had good results with both veggie tan and calf skin, . . . and since my personal supply of calf has dried up, . . . I am doing all of them in veggie tan now days.

I do not sew mine in place, . . . I use only the "in and out" in the same hole process, . . . and really have never had an issue with it.

May God bless,

Dwight

[renegadelizard]

same here, in and out with rivets on the end

[Craig44]

I have Bianchi's DVD set and his reasoning was that calfskin is less likely to stretch.