Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

I've been using the tool from Tandy that punches 6 holes at a time I have a single punch for corners is this the same thing you all are using? I simply lay out my lines then punch with the chisel accordingly.

  • Members
Posted

I use the stitching groover, over stitch wheel and awl.

Steve

"No man is above the law and no man is below it; nor do we ask any man's permission when we ask him to obey it." Theodore Roosevelt

  • 1 year later...
  • Members
Posted

I realize this is an older subject. There are various subjects on the site about drilling for stitching holes. I saddle stitch my projects, would love to have a sewing machine but can't justify the cost for the amount of work I do. I looked for different methods to get a nicer look to my stitching and also to move the process along a bit quicker. I tried drilling and as stated in lots of posts the results were not the best.. So here is what I've come up with and it works for me. I'll admit up front this is a combination of others techniques with tweaks I've come up with. I'll save time and space as to laying out, stitching groove, etc., and get to the drilling part. I'm using Maine Thread and like to use the heavier weights. I like the stitching work to stand out.
Once I run the stitching wheel in the groove I head to my drill press. I do not use a drill bit instead I have a tray of finishing nails in various sizes with the heads cut off. If I decide to use .035" thread I sort through the nails and using a caliper find one that's close to that size or slightly larger, knowing that when doing the saddle stitch I'm going to have double the thread passing through each hole. Once I have chucked the nail in the press I take some fine sand paper and with the drill press running at low speed run the paper, cut in a strip, and polish up the nail then stop the drill and wipe the nail with acetone.
With a backer of hard wood, at low speed, I use the nail to drill all my holes. Unlike a drill bit there is no grabbing and pulling and no bits of leather being pulled out, just nice clean holes. I tried just pressing the holes through without the drill running but I get the same results with it running and less effort. Once I get all my holes in it's back to the stitching horse and awl.
I've set up my stitching awl by punching holes in card stock to get the correct orientation and then sanding a flat on the handle for my thumb position.
The end result is the awl passes through the leather with little effort, and dead straight. It took a little practise to arrive at how far to pass the awl through so that when making the stitches the holes are still tight enough to require a firm push of the saddle needles, the first couple holes is all it takes. I can now stitch a holster in half the time, no sore hands, and no off line holes. I don't have loose holes they all close nice and tight around the thread.

John Wayne "Life's hard it's even harder when your stupid."

  • Members
Posted

Being new to all this leatherworking stuff, I have an advantage in not knowing the "right" way to do things :) . My method is to run a groover to locate the stitch line and then I use an old Singer 201 to punch the stitching holes along the groove. The Singer is a hand-cranked domestic model, and while the needles and bobbin can't handle the heavier thread used for leatherwork, it makes a neat job of punching the holes, with even spacing and nice and straight. I then use an awl to widen the hole and proceed to saddle stitch.

A bit tedious, maybe, but it works for me.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

  • Members
Posted

I use a scratch awl blade pulled from its handle and chucked into my drill press. Unlike a drill bit, the awl blade does not remove any materiel, only moves it aside. I turn the press on to keep the awl from sticking in the leather on the upswing.

  • Members
Posted

Personally, I use a spacing wheel to mark the holes if it's not marked on the template, then I'll take the appropriate awl for the spacing and cut the holes. Then I glue everything together and start sewing it using a hand awl as needed. Now around the welt of a holster I'll use a dermal tool with a 1/16" twist drill to open the hole up.so the needles will fit through the leather creating the stitch.

If you do allot of leather work you'll figure out what works best for you and what doesn't work. If I get back into it much more I'll pick up a boss stitcher even though I hate chain stitches. My hand just will not take the hand sewing anymore.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...