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I'm always interested in how different braiders cut their hides initially. Since I've never heard of anyone else using the same method I do, I thought I'd throw it out there. After a hide is fleshed, dehaired & stretched, I first take a 4 in strip out down the center of the back. Like a lot of braiders, I don't like to cut strings across the back. Ralph Dillon taught me to take out this strip which is then used to make cores for bosals so it doesn't go to waste. The quality of this strip is usually OK, it just seems to have a grain to it that runs lengthwise. While I have used the 30 in. circles, I find smaller ones easier to work with. A 10 in circle will yield about 25 ft. of 1/4 in string. I typically use 1/8 or smaller strings to braid & seldom over 12 ft. long, so these measurements work well for me. I cut my hides into 10 in. squares, trying to keep the thickness even within the square. Now I can simply stack up these squares for storage & when I'm ready to start a project I pick out squares of whatever thickness & color I need, soak & case them, mark & cut a circle & then cut my strings. I have & still sometimes do cut strings from odd shapes, oval etc.. but find it easier & less wasteful to start with a perfect circle. That's the way I do it now, next week I may have a whole different idea. Buck

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Buck

Thanks for sharing your method. I also enjoy hearing how others prepare their strings. For some reason I have trouble cutting from any shape oval, round, or other wise. So I'll start with a somewhat round oval shape. I'll then take my draw gauge or a sharp knife and start cutting around the hide generally 3/4"- 1". And if I do it freehand it's fer damn sure not uniform. I'll take and stretch that strip a bit. Then I go to cutting

string. Any how that's what works for me.

Thanks again, Mike

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Mike, I like to cut 1/4 strings from the round because they are more flexible & I can cut a little more at the center before the curve gets too tight, but also if you're cutting from a odd shape you can go around a sharper corner without making a bad spot. I put my draw gauge in a vice so I can pull with one hand & keep the round rotated tight on the side away from the blade if that makes sense. Glad I'm not the only one without a fancy string cutter. On the first couple of projects I did I cut all my strings freehand & used my bench grinder to even the thickness ( works, but it smells bad).With a little grinding I am able to get my draw gauge down to a 3/32 string width which is narrow enough for me. Thanks for sharing. Buck

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Buck

I do have a Bryn Nubert string cutter. Lol I just don't like to use it to cut my initial string. But I will use it to cut my finial strings. Didn't mean to mislead anyone.

Your a lot handier than me that's fer sure. Your method sure seems to work for you. As your gear looks nice.

Mike

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I have a string cutter on a stand the same height as my bench and use industrial razor blades in it. Where it is the same height as my bench I can put my round on the bench so everything is flat while I cut string, usually cutting a 1/2" string until the round gets smaller then 1/4" string is cut. I run this string through the splitter then coil and let dry for storage, I split it so when it is rewet it tempers evenly. I usually save the backs for cores like Bucksnort.

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Leatherpownder

I'm curious as to how the paper bag helps in the rolling process.

Thanks, Mike

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Got it thanks!?

Mike

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Posted (edited)

Thanks guys, I can see where cutting your initial strings would be tough with a regular string cutter unless it was the same height as your workbench like Leatherpownder's. One other thing I like about the smaller circles is that they fit easily in my humidifier for casing (tupperware type box about 18in X 14in).I have to fold bigger pieces or use a big plastic bag. I keep trying different things, the last hide I did a few days ago I took the best of the hide (center oval & cut it all into 1/2 in string & ran the whole thing thru the splitter. It was a lot more work than I wanted to do all at once & I ended up with some bad spots, not sure if maybe thats where I crossed the back. All in all it was OK. I was able to get decent strings between the bad spots & bundled them up for future use. Thanks for the paper tip Leatherpownder. buck

Edited by bucksnort
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Probably flank or neck. I cut the biggest circle from the best parts of the side and small circles in the marginal spots for knot string that way if it is really stretchy it is discarded without loosing good hide in the process.

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