Flexible Saddle Tree

[Bar C Leather]

Good Morning Natalie

Dennis Lanes system is a good decision. You might also consider that there are a couple of excellent tree makers on this forum that understand and can use that system to your benefit. Go with either the hide or glass . The maker of the Glass trees and The makers of the Hide trees on this forum have done their homework and I along with many other saddle makers can vouch for their quality. Just because a tree is advertised with a fancy coating doesn't necessarily mean that it is of a good design. Yes there are gimmicks used there too and a lot of the time you get poor bar design and performance because you were dazzled by the hype and BS.

You just need to make your choice and get that first tree ordered so that you can concentrate on getting your shop and tools in order so that you can get it built.

When you start building, you will have a gazillion more questions.

There is not a law in place (yet) that says you have to keep that first saddle so you can always sell it and build another since you will be one saddle smarter.

You have some top saddle makers on this forum too and will more than likely give you all the help they can with your questions once they see that you are serious and standing at your bench.

I would suggest that you stick with the seasoned makers of trees and saddles with your questions. People that market their skills and products on a large scale don't necessarily make the best product decisions when they are selling something, only what can turn a fast profit and has appeal because of a name attached. There is a world of difference between having a saddle with a name on it or having a saddle built by the person whose name is on it.

Kind Regards

Blake

It's really nice to be here among experienced makers since my current status doesn't allow me to attend a saddle making school (and I'm not sure I could make my mind up where to go if I was able!) I think it's almost better to get feedback from many experienced makers. I already use 4 different sources as far as literature goes and I seem to be just picking what I feel works best for me and the saddle I'm making for this first saddle.

I actually have ordered my first and second trees. They are both from Bowden and one was ordered two years ago and the second just last month. I am in the middle of construction of saddle number one and have posted some of my progress and I'd love if you all could give me any feedback, good bad or otherwise!!

http://leatherworker...showtopic=19740

The main reason I was considering other options was that I have a 2 year old filly and the tree I ordered for her seems to have too much rock and the bars extend what seems to be too far behind the cantle for her short, cutting horse back. I know there are "rules" and that the weight distribution is important. Can anyone tell me what they feel is a good ratio of bars behind the cantle... I know it probably has to correlate with seat length. I'm sure there is a good chance that whatever I find to fit her back now, she'll grow out of, but we're getting to a point that her training needs to step up a notch and I want to be sure that her saddle fits so we don't run into any problems.

Many Thanks!

Natalie

P.S.... No, I didn't start the first saddle when I ordered the tree two years ago . Started it in August and working as time allows and as I aquire/build the tools I need.

Edited October 20, 2009 by Bar C Leather

[David Genadek]

Natalia,

Tomorrow night at 7 PM Central standard Time I'm going to be giving my new webinar a test run. You would be welcome to join I have attached instructions for how to join. The webinar will answer your questions about the bar length and you will also see film showing you why what these people are claiming about these flexible bared saddles is nothing short of a lie. You can then judge for yourself the depth of my understanding of these systems.

David Genadek

webinarflyeropt.pdf

webinarflyeropt.pdf

[Rod and Denise Nikkel]

I know there are “rules”

Natalie, there really aren’t scientifically set “rules”. A lot of what we have read as “rules” regarding saddle fit, even when stated by people with Dr. in front of their name, are, in our opinion, incorrect (a polite way of saying hogwash), especially when extrapolated between English and Western saddles. For now, Rule #1 “don’t dig in anywhere” and Rule #2 “distribute the pressure over as much surface area as possible without breaking Rule #1” are the only rules that most people would agree on. That takes having a good bar design. The rest are theories and opinions, some backed by many years of experience (which means something), some “new and improved” (yet to be extensively field tested), and some claiming to be based on science. The scientific research behind saddle fit is still in its infancy. There is very little known from actual research. Over the next 5 to 10 years we will learn a lot as the technology improves and we can find out for sure what is happening under that saddle.

The debate between fiberglass and rawhide will probably never end. There are some threads from a couple years ago discussing the issue. The technology behind hide hasn’t changed, and almost anyone can tell how thick a hide is, its condition and how well it is put on just by looking. The technology behind fiberglass has changed a lot and I doubt a layperson can tell just by looking what type of technique and materials have been used on a tree. Some makers are using the newer methods. A lot of trees sold still use the materials that originally gave fiberglass a bad name as a tree covering. If you want to order fiberglass, we would recommend that you learn a bit about the different techniques and ask some questions of the tree maker first. (The same goes for type of rawhide, what is used to stitch it with, protectants used on it, etc.)

[Bar C Leather]

Natalie, there really aren't scientifically set "rules". A lot of what we have read as "rules" regarding saddle fit, even when stated by people with Dr. in front of their name, are, in our opinion, incorrect (a polite way of saying hogwash), especially when extrapolated between English and Western saddles. For now, Rule #1 "don't dig in anywhere" and Rule #2 "distribute the pressure over as much surface area as possible without breaking Rule #1" are the only rules that most people would agree on. That takes having a good bar design. The rest are theories and opinions, some backed by many years of experience (which means something), some "new and improved" (yet to be extensively field tested), and some claiming to be based on science. The scientific research behind saddle fit is still in its infancy. There is very little known from actual research. Over the next 5 to 10 years we will learn a lot as the technology improves and we can find out for sure what is happening under that saddle.

The debate between fiberglass and rawhide will probably never end. There are some threads from a couple years ago discussing the issue. The technology behind hide hasn't changed, and almost anyone can tell how thick a hide is, its condition and how well it is put on just by looking. The technology behind fiberglass has changed a lot and I doubt a layperson can tell just by looking what type of technique and materials have been used on a tree. Some makers are using the newer methods. A lot of trees sold still use the materials that originally gave fiberglass a bad name as a tree covering. If you want to order fiberglass, we would recommend that you learn a bit about the different techniques and ask some questions of the tree maker first. (The same goes for type of rawhide, what is used to stitch it with, protectants used on it, etc.)

I had been thinking a lot about the fiberglass since this thread. I do know that I've peeked under some saddles and noticed that some fiberglass coatings seem to deteriorate and begin to crumble in certain places. I do like the idea of rawhide because of its endurance. I've noticed what looks to be a clear rubbery sealant used over the stitching on the two trees I have ordered. Could you tell me more about protectants (I'm guessing some may be detrimental to the rawhide?), or is there somewhere I can read more about it?

Thanks,

Natalie Carroll