Antiquing - a cry for help

[UKRay]

I have just finished antiquing three belts, I have the horrible stinkin' stuff up my arms, in my hair and all over my bench. It is on both sides of the belts (okay, the back isn't entirely covered with it, but you get the idea...) and I even managed to get some on the dog who was not amused.

There must be an easier way to apply antiquing and get a great finish with it without coloring everything else in a ten yard radius at the same time.

My method is as follows: I stain the leather with a wool dauber (usually with tan or British tan stain). I then open the jar of 'Fiebings Foulness' and stick a bit of rag into the pot, kinda scooping out a healthy dollop. I then slap the dollop as carefully as possible onto the surface to be antiqued.

This is where the trouble starts as the stuff then develops a mind of its own. I carefully smooth it along the surface trying to fill in all the tooling. I'm constantly aware that I have to work quite quickly as the durn stuff dries out so fast. I reach the other end of the piece of work and then I notice a bit I missed so I have to go back to it, spreading black guck in, on and around the piece of work.

At that point I give up trying to be neat - this is war! When I have finally coated the job in guck I then try to polish it off with a clean rag... ha! Now we are really getting into trouble as the stuff migrates from rag to hand to head to dog to wall to ceiling without me being aware of it - how does this happen?

Having got rid of the surplus guck by spreading it around the room I then try to seal the job.

I've tried Tan Kote - boy does that stuff stink, I can't stand the stench and it makes me want to honk!

I've tried Resolene - which just seems to remove the antiquing from the tooling leaving a sludgy mess.

I've tried El Cheapo floor polish which kinda works okay but has a limited life expectancy

I've tried beeswax polishes which just lift the antiquing and spread it all over the job.

There must be a hundred different ways of getting antiquing onto leather and finishing it nicely - all I want is one that works! - What am I doing wrong? How do you saddlery people do those wonderful, beautiful intricate saddle panels? Can you PLEASE tell me how you do this stuff?

(Oh yes, and does anyone know how you get the stuff off dogs? LOL!!!)

Edited September 12, 2008 by UKRay

[Luke Hatley]

RAY CAN YOU POST A PHOTO OF WHAT YOU DID.

THIS IS MY WHITE ANTIQUE FOR OUTLINING LETTERS.

[UKRay]

I'm still trying to get the filthy stuff outta the dog fur and offa my hands, Luke!

Let it suffice to say I wouldn't dream of embarrassing myself further... Just think long, black and covered in slime... much like a large eel! LOL

Actually, make that three large eels...

Edited September 12, 2008 by UKRay

[rdb]

It's hard getting the knack of it.

One solution is taping the back first, this simply prevents the back from getting stained. As for the rest of the room...spread the Sunday paper around...lol

I use a flat board with a cloth to wipe off most of the top gunk. Then when it's drier, I just use cloth in hand.

Leather balm has always worked for me, but let the project dry overnight before applying any topcoat.

If you don't need the color, and just want the design/carving to be accented, Hi-Liter works the best.

[jbird]

not that I am very knowledgable but I have done about 20-25 belts and cases and belt buckles with Tandy highlight stain and it is fantastic and clean that's my $0.00001 worth.

Josh

[David]

Ray,

First of all let me recommend latex gloves. They do wonders for the hands. I actually scoop up that dollop with my hand. Then instead of wiping off the excess with a cloth....(you have to constantly turn the cloth to find a cleaner spot.....) Try paper towels.... and throw them away frequently. Also spread newspaper around everywhere. As far as finish... let the project dry.... really dry at least a day.

Then buff it very hard with a soft cloth. After that Leather balm works for me.... it will move some of the antiquing around .... but plenty will remain. Apply the leather balm sparingly, allow to dry and buff some more with that soft cloth.

That's my method.

David Theobald

[shirleyz]

I'm with David,

Gloves, gloves, gloves! (The girl that does my nails screams that at me) I spread newspaper, and I have a pile of paper towels ready, already separated, and slightly damp. When I have got all the c**p off I buff it with a soft dry rag also. You have to let it dry. I like satin sheen as a finish, and Pecards to waterproof it.

ShirleyZ

[Schno]

Unfortunately, I don't have any answers with regard to antiquing... only more questions. My problem with antiquing is that the few times I've tried it (I've only ever used Tandy's gel antique), it stains the whole project too dark. Following the directions of 'Apply. Wait about five minutes. Buff off' seems to be a bunch of malarkey. Fortunately I tried it on a scrap piece before applying it to my project.

I generally just give the whole antiquing thing a miss, so I haven't even gotten far enough with it to get it all over the room. That sounds fun...

Is there an antiquing guide posted here anywhere?

[UKRay]

Is there an antiquing guide posted here anywhere?

Give this thread another couple of days, Schno, and you may be looking at it!

I really appreciate all the advice people. I've actually got some latex gloves but don't appear to have the intelligence to wear them when required... I promise to do better in future!

I am still not too sure how long to leave the stuff on the leather before trying to remove the surplus. What do you do?

From your comments I'm fairly sure one of my problems is not letting the stuff dry for long enough before trying to buff it off. Would you say that overnight is essential?

I haven't seen Hi Lite in the UK yet but I suspect it is available from the new Tandy shop. Are there any tricks to using it?

[Hilly]

Ray, get yourself a SHIRT. A really BIG shirt, and put it on backwards. Sort of like we did in kindergarten before we used the finger paints. Wear rubber or plastic GLOVES. In your case, try the ones they use at veterinary school - you know - the kind that goes all the way to your shoulder. TAPE the backs of your projects. Cover the dog table with newspaper. Lock the DOG out of the room. Put the GOOP on your project. Wrap a ruler with clean paper towels and sort of SQUEEGEE the excess OFF. BUFF with a soft cloth. WAIT till the next day and then SEAL with your favorite sealer.

Questions?

[UKRay]

That would need to be one heck of a big shirt, Hilly - those gloves sound fun though!

The dog is asleep in the bath at present but I'll let it know what you suggested...

[Hilly]

That would need to be one heck of a big shirt, Hilly - those gloves sound fun though!

The dog is asleep in the bath at present but I'll let it know what you suggested...

Awwwww, what a cute dog! How did you get him to lay in that sink like that? And how did he get so DIRTY?

[The Major]

Well, I'm no expert but I will offer what I do.

First off, don't feel bad about the gloves, I have 2 boxes within arms length and almost never remember to use them. When you are on a roll, your on a roll.

I use a sponge to apply my antique. Lightly dampen it with plain water. Dip the sponge in the goop and go (You really don't need to use a lot of it). I don't worry too much about it drying as I go, as my next step will remove the excess. Once you have completed going over it once, take another sponge with some water and soap (I use my casing solution as it is only water and dawn). Do not overly soak the sponge. Go over the project removing the excess. Now wipe it with a rag to remove any surface moisture. If it is not as dark as you want, go over it again using the same process.

This method takes a while especially if you are really trying to change the color. But with antiquing you are really not supposed to make drastic changes, that is what the preliminary dye work is for. You are just supposed to be adding some character.

Finally, stop trying to antique your dog. Spray paint works much better!

[UKRay]

The dog always sleeps in the bath, Hilly. He is a bloke so it is almost obligatory...

I am a little confused (it doesn't take much does it?) as I have been advised to mix the antiquing with water. Now I thought the stuff was spirit based. It smells like spirit, it looks like a spirit based substance - how could I be so wrong?

I would really like a little reassurance at this point that the stuff I am using is the same as the stuff you guys have got - see picture below.

FYI: I have managed to salvage the three belts (with meths, glasspaper and hard work) and I think they look okay - see picture below.

I've really gotta sort this stuff out before I make any more mess!

[Luke Hatley]

RAY IS THAT AWFUL STAIN ON THE CUTTING MAT FROM YOUR TRIAL & TRIBULATIONS TODAY?

MAN THAT IS A MESS

FROM WHAT I SEE OF THE ANTIQUE IT IS PETROLEUM BASE.

IT SEEMS TO ME THAT YOU GOT SOME FINE ADVICE AS TO "WHAT NOT TO DO THE NEXT TIME &

WHAT TO DO".

ME, PERSONALY I DO NOT USE A LOT OF ANTIQUE, THE TIMES I USE IT IS ON THE BASKET WEAVE DESIGN AND TO OUTLINE LETTERING.SOME TIMES I WILL" SPRAY DYE"A BELT AND WIPE THE

ANTIQUE ON THE BELT AND THEN WIPE OFF. THIS GIVES ME THE"ANTIQUE " THAT I AM LOOKING FOR.

[The Major]

Please keep in mind. I did not recommend mixing it with water. Just use a damp sponge (this is not mixing it with water). You are not trying to dilute the antique medium. You are using it as a sort of barrier, much like a resist would. The sponge is not going to contain that much water.

You are correct in saying it is "spirit" solvent based, however it is not a true petroleum solvent. It contains benzine and terpine as its base. Also as you go along the solvents will remove most of the water anyway.

I made this recommendation to aid in controlling the amount of media you are using. This is what works for me. You will get hundreds of answers on how to do things. the trick is finding one that works for you.

[UKRay]

Please keep in mind. I did not recommend mixing it with water. Just use a damp sponge (this is not mixing it with water). You are not trying to dilute the antique medium. You are using it as a sort of barrier, much like a resist would. The sponge is not going to contain that much water.

You are correct in saying it is "spirit" solvent based, however it is not a true petroleum solvent. It contains benzine and terpine as its base. Also as you go along the solvents will remove most of the water anyway.

I made this recommendation to aid in controlling the amount of media you are using. This is what works for me. You will get hundreds of answers on how to do things. the trick is finding one that works for you.

Aha! Now that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the explanation Major. I'm already much happier about this stuff but would be glad to hear from anyone who has anything else to add. I don't think we have quite got to the bottom of this yet.

Yes, Luke, that IS a very small sample of the mess I made earlier... but we aren't going to mention that again are we? In fact we are going to wipe it from our memories and never ever use it to tease, taunt or torment. <grin!!!!>

[bustedlifter]

Ray, lots of good suggestions here. I'll add mine and you can take it for what its worth. After tooling and dyeing (or in my case, sharpieing) I oil the piece up a bit with some quality oil like 60w Valvoline. Today I used HD 60W because I was out of Valvoline. I like the Fiebing's antique also. I used a sandwich bag today,out of gloves.I just dip a couple of fingers in the antique and lightly smear it over the work and into all the impressions.Next I wipe off the excess immediately,I don't give it time to dry. Then I take a rag wrapped around a finger and get some more out of the impressions as I like to use the antique to outline.I then go over the whole thing again with a damp cloth to get any stray stain,let it dry for a day or two, then finish it off with some Aussie Conditioner.

[ClayB]

I usually thin my antique paste about half with tan kote. Makes it kind of runny instead of really thick. Then I wipe it on with a damp sponge. I dont let it dry more than a few minutes and then wipe it back off with another damp sponge, leaving it in the impressions. Then I will give it a coat of tan kote to seal it, wiped on again with a damp sponge. For me, having it thinned down makes it less messy.

[CitizenKate]

Ray, mixing antique with Tan-Kote works very well for me, as well. Not only does it mellow out the contrast a little, but it also gives you more time to work. Furthermore, the antique/stain job (whatever you prefer to call it) ends up much more stable once it cures. In other words, the top coat isn't as likely to lift off parts of the antique job.

I also highly support David's comments about using paper towels and spreading down some newsprint. Just... don't ever run out of paper towels, man.

Kate

[bunkhouseleather]

I add tan-kote to the antique paste also. Then finish with a top coat of tan-kote. Hilights the carving nicely and gives a nice mellow finish. Works for me anyway.

Had to post a pic to go along with your dog in the tub. This is what we usually have in our tub in the springtime. Wish it was only antique all over it. LOL!!!!

[Hilly]

I add tan-kote to the antique paste also. Then finish with a top coat of tan-kote. Hilights the carving nicely and gives a nice mellow finish. Works for me anyway.

Had to post a pic to go along with your dog in the tub. This is what we usually have in our tub in the springtime. Wish it was only antique all over it. LOL!!!!

:wtf: is that cow doing in your bath?

[TwinOaks]

Obtain 1 veterinarian's syringe, minus the needle. (or any of them really, but Vets' syringes are available in size 'BIG')

Add Gel antique and presto you've an antique gel pen.....or gel antique pen. You can even cap it.

Or...if you choose to thin the mix, keep the needle, but break the tip off to that you've got a fine tube. Now you have the solution to it getting everywhere else.

And antiquing the dog does not make him look old enough to get into pubs with you.

Edited September 13, 2008 by TwinOaks

[leathergrl]

Hi UKRay,

Did you ever have any luck with the antiquing? I read through this whole thread in order to get an understanding of what exactly to do but as I have tried antiquing some of my tooled leather in the past. As one poster indicated, when I antiqued according to the directions, the whole piece turned dark. I am back to doing my leatherwork again and my basic question about antiquing is this:

Can someone explain to me how to get the antiquing gel to get into the cracks and crevices without changing the overall color of the piece. I have read about applying neatlac and then tan kote (allowing to dry24 hrs) and then applying the antique? Is this so that you protect the leather surface from the antique while it gets down into the crevices? I have a leather floral pattern that I have toooled and like anyone, I don't want to ruin it and I have tried several different methods to get the light surface contrasted with the dark lines that makes the patern stand out.

I am a newby but I love reading everyone's posts and I just about fell out while reading about the antiquing of the dog. That was entertaining and I can definitely relate.

Thanks!

Monisavant/leathergrl

Obtain 1 veterinarian's syringe, minus the needle. (or any of them really, but Vets' syringes are available in size 'BIG')

Add Gel antique and presto you've an antique gel pen.....or gel antique pen. You can even cap it.

Or...if you choose to thin the mix, keep the needle, but break the tip off to that you've got a fine tube. Now you have the solution to it getting everywhere else.

And antiquing the dog does not make him look old enough to get into pubs with you.

I love this idea!

[leathergrl]

Unfortunately, I don't have any answers with regard to antiquing... only more questions. My problem with antiquing is that the few times I've tried it (I've only ever used Tandy's gel antique), it stains the whole project too dark. Following the directions of 'Apply. Wait about five minutes. Buff off' seems to be a bunch of malarkey. Fortunately I tried it on a scrap piece before applying it to my project.

I generally just give the whole antiquing thing a miss, so I haven't even gotten far enough with it to get it all over the room. That sounds fun...

Is there an antiquing guide posted here anywhere?

This is exactly what I have experienced.......darkening of the whole piece. bleh-