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Posted

Eric,

Any luck find a clutch similar to what I have?

Gerry

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Posted (edited)

Not sure but isn´t it the same clutch as in the 111w?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290766935542

I came across this offer while searching for parts for my 111G

But maybe Eric has one on hand as well.

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

I was just given a singer 111W153 my dad had it in storage for several years said it worked great when he last used it 3-4 years ago. I have never used a sewing machine before so it will be a learning experience . I may be soon posting stupid questions

Posted

Gerry ,I wouldn't worry about that clutch not kicking when needed.You probably have the screws in the right position now since it's feeding correctly.If you want to see it trip put a wide tip screwdriver in between the 2-little pins (one has a cotter pin in Erics video) & the other one & turn it counterclockwise & it'll kickout.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

toledo-banner-2.jpg

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Posted

Thanks for the input. The clutch takes a huge amount of force to trip out. In fact, when I got a jam, the clutch never tripped and the hook drive gear on the shaft skipped over the gear on the hook causing the drive gear to slide back on the shaft, disengaging the the hook and throwing everything out of time. Fortunately, the gears survived. At that time, I took the clutch out of the machine and attempted to trip the clutch by hand. I had to put the clutch in a vice to hold it, while I tripped it with a screwdriver between the two pins. With the force required to trip it, there is no way it can protect anything.

I assume that there exists a release torque spec for that style clutch as the designers / manufacturers must have had to test them. I did email Singer about this, but do not expect much of an answer, because of the age of the machine. Because of this, it would be nice if I had a clutch on a shaft, as in the video, set up to what an experienced person considers the proper release torque. I could then measure the release torque with a torque wrench, and voila, I (we) would be able to test the clutches so they would actually protect the machines like they are supposed to.

Now that my machine is timed and running properly, it is probably not a big issue, until the next jam. That is why I am trying to get a handle on this tripping issue. The machine I have is in good condition, with little wear, and the clutch is clean and well oiled, but it doesn't have an adjustment screw as the one in the video. I may just get one like in the link posted by Constabulary to experiment with.

Gerry

Posted

The presuure adjustment is a slotted pin(it looks like a screw) that holds the clutch spring on ,there's a set screw that runs against the belt so you loosen it & turn the slotted pin to adjust it.The part I'm talking about is @ the 5:00 position on the pic on the vid above.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

toledo-banner-2.jpg

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Posted

Thank you Bob. My clutch does not have the slotted eccentric adjustment pin, just a smooth pin. The clutch in the Singer 111 machine has the adjustment. I was trying to find just the slotted pin to make mine adjustable, but have been unable to do so. That is why I was thinking of getting a 111 clutch to experiment with.

Gerry

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