Snapcake Practice

[supercub]

I've been playing with a couple of new (to me) designs for a removeable pancake holster. At the same time, I've been using up some of the old dried up leather in the scrap bin before I order some new sides. The Glock holster is an attempt at a flat back with double layer of 4/5. The S&W Shield is a conventional pancake made from 7/8. As you can see, I had some issues with my stitching since my sewing machine tension went haywire and I ended up finishing with another machine. I like the flat back style, but it seems the more I try them, the more I need to learn about the process. I've read most of the posts on doing the flatback, but getting it right seems a little tougher than I thought it would be. Suggestions and comments are welcome.

[chiefjason]

Yeah, the flat back is a very different process. And I know there are several different processes used for them on here. I have my patterns pretty set for the guns I make the most holsters for. I cut the front larger than needed, mold it, then glue it to the back piece. From their I trim the front to match the back.

[SooperJake]

Yeah, the flat back is a very different process. And I know there are several different processes used for them on here. I have my patterns pretty set for the guns I make the most holsters for. I cut the front larger than needed, mold it, then glue it to the back piece. From their I trim the front to match the back.

Just curious: Do you insert your mold when you are attaching the front to back or is it rigid enough not to flare out at the sides? I tried this technique before and noticed I could alter the fit if I smooshed the front down or brought the sides in too much when gluing.

[SooperJake]

Nice work Supercub.

[supercub]

Nice work Supercub.

Thanks Jake. Having seen the stuff you make, that means a lot.

[chiefjason]

Just curious: Do you insert your mold when you are attaching the front to back or is it rigid enough not to flare out at the sides? I tried this technique before and noticed I could alter the fit if I smooshed the front down or brought the sides in too much when gluing.

I'll try my best to describe it. I start with the 2 pieces, front and back. I insert the gun into the front molded piece. Then get the position I want for the gun with the 2 pieces held together. Then I mark the outline of the back piece onto the back of the front piece. Remember, the front is oversized. Once that is done, I remove the gun. I then align the holster using the previous marks and then mark the inside of the flat back piece with a pencil where the leather makes contact. Then I apply my glue to the flat back section using the pencil marks. And apply the glue to the front section using the mold as a guide. The outside edge guide mark is used to attach the glued pieces together. When I glue them together I use clamps to press the sides together and usually let that sit overnight. I use scrap leather and wood pieces to keep the clamps from marking the leather. Then I trim, sand square, edge, set my stitch lines and so on.

It's a bit complicated. Probably confusing. And I'm certain it's inefficient. But I really like the results, and more importantly; so do the customers.

[supercub]

Tried a little different process this time with a Colt Commander. Still a molded flat back with the front of two layers of 4/5 oz. This time I used fresh Herman Oak. It molded much better than the old dried out leather I had been using. It also remained quite stiff after drying. It didn't oil quite as well as I had hoped, so I airbrushed a light coat of light brown oil die. The photo doesnt really capture the colors properly, but I'm satisfied with it.

[malabar]

Almost all of my holsters are high-ride and flat-backed. This requires a more rigid body to properly support the gun. I make extensive use of templates, because the front and back pieces have very different shapes. And most of my holsters have a steelband in the throat that is covered by a third piece that joins the front to the back. You can see my designs on my website at www.malabargunleather.com/display-holsters

My procedure:

1.) Layout the pieces using the templates and cut them out.

2.) Trim, edge and burnish the reinforcing piece.

3.) Apply glue to the portions of the three pieces that are joined by the reinforcing piece. Also apply glue to the steel band.

4.) When the glue is dry, add the steel band to the reinforcing piece. The join the three pieces together flat, using the reinforcing piece as a guide.

5.) Stitch the reinforcing piece to the front and back.

6.) Using a template, layout the holes for the t-nuts, punch the holes, insert the t-nuts, and bend the pieces of the holster around so that it resembles it's final shape and is no longer "flat." Apply glue to the portions of the body that will be joined together.

7.) When the glue is dry, align the two sides that will wrapped by the reinforcing piece and carefully press them together.

8.) Put the gun in the holster, and wrap the outside layer over top of the inside layer (the part that will become the flat back). Carefully push the layers together.

9.) Trim the sides so that the outer edger match up.

10.) Mark the stitch lines. I used to do this entirely by using a template shaped like the gun, and indexing it from the position of the gun in the holster. More and more often I now wet the leather, and mold it to the shape of the gun, and mark the stitch line that way, using the template to confirm the proper shape.

11.) Stitch the holster, then dunk it and wet mold.

Hope this helps.

Edited September 3, 2013 by malabar

[supercub]

.

Hope this helps.

It does - a lot! Thanks for the tips. I've been very impressed with your holsters. What weight leather do you use for the holster body?

[malabar]

Thanks for the kind words.

I use 9/10 for the backs and 7/8 for the front.

tk