Stitching with the Artisan Toro 3000

[Randyc]

Elton and Greg

Thanks for your inpute. After studying my machine and manual, I found my machine has 2 presser feet. The part I refered to as the needle bar is a center groover presser foot that is attached to the needle bar with the needle passing through this foot. The other presser foot is a left side walking foot. The groover at the bottom of that foot directly below the needle bar is the one that is a problem. I think I may just file if off.

Randy

Edited September 17, 2008 by Randyc

[greg gomersall]

Grind or file it off. Greg

[Randyc]

Greg

I'm dangerous with a Dremel. Think I will use a hand file!!!!

[Art]

Hi Randy,

As you have found out, part names are important when talking machines. The needle bar is a rod that the needle fits into and by which the needle is propelled up and down. On smaller machines this bar or rod may be adjustable for length and this adjustment is used to time the needle - shuttle/hook relationship. On larger machines this is not usually the case and timing is done by adjusting the shuttle position. The inside presser foot is generally the foot with a hole or slot in it and often the aforementioned skeg on the bottom rear. This part usually attaches to it's own bar or rod and is actuated independently of the needle bar and is also spring tensioned. The purpose of the inside foot is to stabilize the work, assist somewhat (but not much) in the needle feed operation, and to keep the work from flagging as the needle goes down and up. The skeg serves the function of pushing the completed stitch down into the work and additionally similar to a boat causing the stitch to run straight without a lot of operator input. This is only really necessary at high speed, where the operator reaction time might be a lot slower than the machine. Removing the skeg will not cause many problems because of the machine speed we use in leatherwork. When removing this skeg, go slowly with hand tools and relieve any sharp or even semi-sharp edges you might generate (pay attention to side/bottom junctions) and then polish with crocus or a buffer, the smoother, the less chance of marking.

Art

Greg

I'm dangerous with a Dremel. Think I will use a hand file!!!!

[rdb]

As usual, thanks Art for sharing your machine knowledge.

I'm no genius at machine sewing, but I kind of like the skeg on my 3000. I usually groove both sides for my stitching, and between the inside presser foot, and the skeg, the stitches are tight, and below the top of the leather. Things I have seen without this approach show wear on the stitches in very little time. They don't look as good either.

I sew fairly slow, and the little groover skeg seems to keep the track in the groove. I do have problems at starts, and finishes, and around tight corners, but being careful and slow leaves little marking. Just my half penny...

[Randyc]

Ok, the deed is done. I removed the skeg from the inside presser foot and it polished up quite well. I did tighten up the thread tension a bit. So far so good. Thanks Guys for shareing your knowledge!!!

Randy

[Randyc]

After reading this thread, Jerry from Artisan Sewing gave me a call. He explained that the presser feet on on their machines are designed to be user modified to fit different needs. He explained that the groover on my inner presser foot was designed for sewing long runs ie. reins and belts and removing the creaser was an option for me. Talk about customer service. Artisan sure can't be beat.

Randy

[MattW]

Would someone please post a pic of the original thing that is causing the problem? I'll be getting one of these machines and I'd like to see if it would interfere with stuff I'll be working on.

Here you go Azmal...

[TwinOaks]

Just run the blooming thing backwards so's it makes a stitching groove as you go.

[Art]

And you could run around to the other side and have a Left handed machine!

Art

Just run the blooming thing backwards so's it makes a stitching groove as you go.