Randyc Report post Posted September 17, 2008 Ok, the deed is done. I removed the skeg from the inside presser foot and it polished up quite well. I did tighten up the thread tension a bit. So far so good. Thanks Guys for shareing your knowledge!!! Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randyc Report post Posted September 17, 2008 After reading this thread, Jerry from Artisan Sewing gave me a call. He explained that the presser feet on on their machines are designed to be user modified to fit different needs. He explained that the groover on my inner presser foot was designed for sewing long runs ie. reins and belts and removing the creaser was an option for me. Talk about customer service. Artisan sure can't be beat. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MattW Report post Posted September 18, 2008 Would someone please post a pic of the original thing that is causing the problem? I'll be getting one of these machines and I'd like to see if it would interfere with stuff I'll be working on. Here you go Azmal... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted September 19, 2008 Just run the blooming thing backwards so's it makes a stitching groove as you go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted September 19, 2008 And you could run around to the other side and have a Left handed machine! Art Just run the blooming thing backwards so's it makes a stitching groove as you go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted September 19, 2008 Mount it upside down to stitch the underside of things? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOOMSTICKHolsters Report post Posted September 19, 2008 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MattW Report post Posted September 20, 2008 Perfect reply to the last three, thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted September 20, 2008 Yes, it was. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOOMSTICKHolsters Report post Posted September 20, 2008 You guys are nuts.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randyc Report post Posted September 20, 2008 Ok, which one of you knuckle heads snapped a picture of me after starting this thread? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DenverCZBob Report post Posted November 3, 2008 Hello Everyone, I just got the 3000. Do you find that the 'Holster Plate' works better for sewing holsters and belts than the stock needle plate? What would be the difference? Have you done anything to the outside presser foot? It seems to get in my way when sewing some holsters. I have enjoyed reading all the messages. Great info! thanks, -bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LarryB Report post Posted November 14, 2008 I also just got a toro 3000 so I am trying to learn. Hope to hear more tips. Thanks so far for the tips. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArtS Report post Posted November 14, 2008 While we're talking about the 3000 how thin of leather can it sew? I haven't seen that in my manual. I want to try making a leather vest and was wondering if I need to use another machine for that. Thanks, Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOOMSTICKHolsters Report post Posted November 14, 2008 Unless you want the vest to double as body armor, you'll probably want to try a different machine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArtS Report post Posted November 14, 2008 I have an old White sewing machine of my mom's. I'm trying to learn to use it and see if it will sew thin leather. Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bree Report post Posted November 14, 2008 While we're talking about the 3000 how thin of leather can it sew? I haven't seen that in my manual. I want to try making a leather vest and was wondering if I need to use another machine for that.Thanks, Art Actually it will sew thin leather with thread down to #69. You will have to get some 794 (7X3) Round points in size 120 (7X3-120). You can get them at Weaver. It's a funny looking needle with the lower half very thin compared to the upper shaft. Nevertheless, you have a needle size comparable to what you would find on a normal industrial machine. Of course, you will have to reset your bobbin tension if you go down to #69. Most other sizes don't call for lower tension adjustments but the #69 (and probably #92) do require some adjustment. You can get the flat needle plate and pretty much have yourself a flatbed without the bed! LOL! And you can make or buy a flatbed add-on if you wish. And if you get yourself a manual for that White Rotary and get familiar with it, get a good needle on there, you will find that it will sew through light leather like a hot knife through butter! Mine do! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MattW Report post Posted November 14, 2008 Hi Bob, I only use the stock flat, un-grooved, needle plate and 99% of my work is holsters and belts. Although I think there may be some advantages at times with the holster plate, I like the flexibility you get from the standard needle plate. I cut back my outside needle foot dramaticly. See post #5 in this thread for pics and a description. Matt Hello Everyone,I just got the 3000. Do you find that the 'Holster Plate' works better for sewing holsters and belts than the stock needle plate? What would be the difference? Have you done anything to the outside presser foot? It seems to get in my way when sewing some holsters. I have enjoyed reading all the messages. Great info! thanks, -bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArtS Report post Posted November 14, 2008 Thanks Bree! I bought the flatbed add-on when I bought the machine. Do I still need another needle plate? Do I need another presser foot? I have the manual for the White Model 805. Just practicing now. Thanks, Art Actually it will sew thin leather with thread down to #69. You will have to get some 794 (7X3) Round points in size 120 (7X3-120). You can get them at Weaver. It's a funny looking needle with the lower half very thin compared to the upper shaft. Nevertheless, you have a needle size comparable to what you would find on a normal industrial machine. Of course, you will have to reset your bobbin tension if you go down to #69. Most other sizes don't call for lower tension adjustments but the #69 (and probably #92) do require some adjustment.You can get the flat needle plate and pretty much have yourself a flatbed without the bed! LOL! And you can make or buy a flatbed add-on if you wish. And if you get yourself a manual for that White Rotary and get familiar with it, get a good needle on there, you will find that it will sew through light leather like a hot knife through butter! Mine do! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted November 14, 2008 You can certainly remove the skeg with no negative results. You might want to call Steve at Artisan and see if Artisan offers a harness needle set-up, which has a much narrower and smooth inside and outside presser foot allowing you to get much closer to your molded work, while eliminateing the damage to your leather in the turns. In addition, I have to say that I can't imagine sewing and not using a stitch groover, anymore. I groove everything...I even groove 2/3 oz lining leather now. It protects, your stitches from abraision and makes them much, much prettier! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArtS Report post Posted November 14, 2008 Doesn't the presser foot push down the stitch as if you did a stitch grove? Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted November 14, 2008 Doesn't the presser foot push down the stitch as if you did a stitch grove?Art I think it's supposed to Art, but I didn't think the one on my Adler was very effective. When I started grooving, the appearance of my stitiching improved about 300%. I'm still not good at sewing but I spent a lot less time aplogizing for it now! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted November 14, 2008 Hi Art, It is not how thin a leather, it can be adjusted to sew toilet paper, but how small a thread. Thread wise you can go maybe 138 or 92, but not the 69 or 46 or even smaller you use on the thin stuff. When you start using the smaller needles to go with the smaller thread you may have to change the hook to needle relationship (uses shims) or it will likely skip, the difference between a 26 (230) and a 16 (100) are considerable. So, if you just have occasional thin stuff, the wife's sewing machine will do, if you need more oomph, get a 1797 from Jerry. Also an old Singer 66 can be picked up cheap for the thin stuff, or get a Sailrite (or Artisan makes one like it also and cheaper), but the 66 is cheaper. The Singer 201s are also good (gear drive can be a problem if you are not careful) and a boat anchor Kenmore or White will also work. Art While we're talking about the 3000 how thin of leather can it sew? I haven't seen that in my manual. I want to try making a leather vest and was wondering if I need to use another machine for that.Thanks, Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DenverCZBob Report post Posted November 14, 2008 Hi Bob,I only use the stock flat, un-grooved, needle plate and 99% of my work is holsters and belts. Although I think there may be some advantages at times with the holster plate, I like the flexibility you get from the standard needle plate. I cut back my outside needle foot dramaticly. See post #5 in this thread for pics and a description. Matt Thanks Matt, The stock plate is fine as long as I am making a holster with the flesh side on the back. When I produce one with the grain on front and back I get a continuous depression running with the thread on the bottom of the work. Looks like a little gofer tunnel if you get my drift. I assume it is from the opening on the feed dog, when the presser foot presses down on the leather and the feed dog comes up, the grain is forced through that slot on the feed dog forming that depression. I thought maybe the slotted needle plate or holster plate would eliminate that since you have to remove the feed dog with either of those installations, and of course the narrower needle slot. Maybe I’ll try making the feed dog thinner…? Thanks again! -bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bree Report post Posted November 14, 2008 Thanks Bree!I bought the flatbed add-on when I bought the machine. Do I still need another needle plate? Do I need another presser foot? I have the manual for the White Model 805. Just practicing now. Thanks, Art Great! I don't think it is essential to have a new needle plate or special presser feet. It makes life simpler to have a flat plate but the stock stuff will work. Just remember that you are using a jackhammer to do chip carving when you go down to a real low thread size like #69. The bigger you go the better the machine will like it. I am doing round point stuff with #92 poly thread on my T-4000 LA-25. But it likes 277 or 346 a lot better. If I use the big Toro for patch sewing I will buy a separate hook and adjust it for the light thread and simply replace the whole hook so I don't have to mess with the bottom tension. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites