I Want To Make "manly" Belts, However I've Got Many Questions!

[lambboy3487]

Hello Leatherworker community!

I'd like to make a rugid and tough belt. Simple and traditional looking belt. Something like this image attached.

Where do I buy leather for this in bulk?

What sort of weight/thickness do you recommend?

How do I cut? (How do I make it basically) If someone can direct me towards a good step by step forum post or website that would help too.

How would I stain or finish it?

Any recommended market/website to purchase the items above?

What tools do I buy?

Many questions and many belts to be made...

-Kim

[TomG]

It looks like it's just a plain old 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" wide belt with an antique brass roller buckle.

You can buy a side and a strap cutter and cut your own, or buy precut straps from Tandy or Springfield or other supplier. Check the vendors at the top of the page or other links here.

You can use 9-10 oz for dress belts but for equipment belts, I'd personally use 12 oz min.

You will need an edge beveler to knock off the edges, hole punch for the holes, a sharp knife or end punch for the tip. If you are doing a lot, the end punch will save your life. Same with an oblong punch for the tongue slot for the buckle.

You will need snap or rivet setter for securing the buckle. You'll need either pre-made keepers, or some form of staples or needle/thread to make them.

Dyes or stains and finishes to your preference. The variations are endless. Sponges or duabors or something to apply them. Neatsfoot oil to condition the leather would be advisable.

I recall seeing a number us tutorials on how to make belts on these forums. Do a search on BELTS and you'll be overwhelmed with info.

As for HOW to dye and/or finish, you will find almost as many ways and variations on that as there are members here. In fact, there is a whole section devoted to just that.

Good luck

[TomG]

Here you go. First one of many. As I said, there are many variations on how you get to the finished products but these are the basics.

For a plain belt, you'd leave off the grooving, highlighting, etc.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4416

[katsass]

From the grumpy old guy; first off my recommendation is to contact Springfield Leather (Gogle them) and order their catalog. Look through it and read the assistive notes on damned near every page --- then purchase an AL Stolhman book on how to make belts from them. THEN --- READ the damned thing. To start with, buy a few 9oz belt blanks (this saves you money) and get only the tools that the book indicates that you will need. I use 14oz leather because my belts are designed to carry a sidearm, and I then line them with 2/3oz. If you work slow, pay attention to detail and enjoy yourself, everything will come out well. I'm enclosing a couple of pics of one of my 14oz belts lined with 2/3oz leather and hand stitched just to show how far one can go after 35 or so years of butchering dead cow skin. Mike

[TomG]

OMG Katsass. I just looked at your photobucket. You have a Safety Speed holder? I wore one for almost the entire time I was a cop. Loved it. Fasted rig in the world. At least at the time.

[SeattleLeather]

Mmm, 16-17 ounce thick belt... I may need to learn how to sew (properly) one of these days!

And as to the topic starter. If you want something badass that will last, go for thicker leather as said above. I personally am all about SOLID HARDWARE. Brass is easy to come by, even made in the USA. That is what I would suggest. Then you don't have the issue of the plating wearing off after awhile. I HATE that.

Other than that I think the other posts cover it!

Edited September 12, 2013 by SeattleLeather

[katsass]

Seattle, I have to agree with you on quality, solid (not plated) hardware. The belt thickness is to provide a very stable place for the holster to ride. If you have ever tried to carry a shooter like a 1911, or a Smith 4" M-24 or even a Smith M-19, on a standard, commercial trousers belt and had the damned thing sag, stretch and/or fold over, you'll promptly get a true & proper gunbelt (not some TV western cowboy shoot-em-up rig) -- even for daily wear. As to stitching, I learned as a kid -- from a WWI cavalry soldier. I enclose a closer look at the belt. Try to Learn to stitch, it'll do you well in the future. Mike

Edited September 13, 2013 by katsass

[SeattleLeather]

Oh yea. A custom belt I bought in one piece of solid 14oz English Bridle leather is what made me want to start messing around with leather again! I hadn't done it since I was a kid, and store bought belts are a joke. So why not do it yourself! I can hand sew ok now, but never done much more leather sewing than a few patches, fix a few busted seams here and there. I will certainly have to learn to do good consistent stuff like some of you guys do on here one of these days!

[imstephenjones]

Lamb Boy,

Because you posted an image of a simple belt, I would recommend the following materials to make this as simple a project as you can, then you can get fancier as time goes on and you get the basic idea of a belt.

Leather: Start by purchasing pre-cut belt strips. The one in the image is a 1.5 inch, more than likely 9-10oz., which is a very common size for belts, especially the trendy ones that Tanner Leather Goods and other companies put out. I'm not saying thicker isn't better, because it is obviously stronger, but for a simple belt that you would wear day to day that is just holding your pants up, 9-10oz. is more than enough. If you cannot find any pre-cut strips, buy a Strip Cutter. These things will save your life. I put off buying one for a long time, and when I finally bought one, my productivity skyrocketed. You can also purchase Belt Blanks, which come with everything cut out for you. It would remove the need for a few of the latter tools.

Buckle: The buckle should be solid, as the guys above me mentioned. No one likes a two toned metal after wear and tear. I get mine from Oregon Leather Company, but it seems they do not carry the ones I get online. From my understanding, I use the same ones as Filson does on their belts.

Rivets: For starters, stick to copper rivets. They are easier to use and strong as hell. Eventually you can spend the money to get a press, then it makes sense to use a double cap rivet because it's more efficient. For the copper rivets you should start with a size 8, 9 or 10. 12's are a bit small aesthetically, but they will still do more than hold your buckle on. You'll also need a farmer's rivet setter.

Cutting Tools: For cutting the ends of the leather you'll want a Strap End Cutter. You can get these in a variety of shapes, so do some browsing to find what you want here. You will also want a Revolving Spring Punch. This will give you a few options for punch sizes. You will use it for your rivet holes and buckle holes at the end of the belt. For the hole that the buckle goes through, you will need an Oblong Punch. I would recommend one inch for the length. That should give you clearance for most buckles.

Sizing: Some notes on sizing. For a belt, you will want to measure the distance around your or your clients waist. Take that measurement and add two inches, and that will be the length of the belt from the bottom of the buckle. You can check out this chart to get a better idea (click on the customer service link to view the chart). You will punch five holes at the end of the belt, each being one inch apart. You will do your first hole 4 inches from the tip of the belt, and then punch the remainder towards the buckle.

It's a straight forward project, so I wish you luck! Hopefully you can get all the leather and tools you need to make it happen! If you have any questions, let me know. I think I got everything in here, but I could have overlooked something.

Cheers,

Stephen

www.blkancr.co

[dkbutcher]

This video helped me a lot for most of the process. It doesn't tell you everything you'll need to know to make a belt perfectly... but it tells you enough to get a good finished product. Ian (I think he's a member here... not sure) has a bunch of really good videos up and is largely responsible for getting me into leatherwork.

Dave