Members rundogdave Posted September 26, 2013 Members Report Posted September 26, 2013 This is my first attempt at a scratch built holster. Did some experimenting. Drilled the stitching holes on the right side with a .060 drill. I see from other posts that this is too big. Left side with an awl. Need to improve my stitching and edge work, as well as the belt loops. Dip dyed after forming and stitching, several coats of neatsfoot oil then 50/05 water and resolene. What do ya think? Don't be shy. Can't hurt my feelings. Don't have any!! Quote I am what I am, but I ain't what I used to be.
Members J Hayes Posted September 26, 2013 Members Report Posted September 26, 2013 Looks good. Might want the stitch line closer to the gun. Also the gun seems to be really deep in the holster, do you have enough room between grip and a leather to get a good firing grip on the weapon? 1 light coat of oil should be enough unless the leather was extremely dry to begin with, don't want it getting too soft. Maybe not mold so far into the ejection port, one can mold so tight it locks the weapon in. What weight leather did you use? I don't do hardly any with belt slots so I can't really comment on that. Its fun stuff though. Jeremy Quote
Members rundogdave Posted September 26, 2013 Author Members Report Posted September 26, 2013 It's fun addicting, and frustrating when I mess something up. I did get the weapon a little too deep in to the holster, but didn't realize it until after it dried. One of several lessons learned. Started another one already, for a Glock 17 this time. Do you do your stitching before or after you form? Did the stitching before on the first one. I want to try this one after, to keep the stitching white. I like the contrast. I am using 6-7 oz. on these. Seems to be a nice weight for the wet forming. How do you make them without belt slots? Got any photos to share? Quote I am what I am, but I ain't what I used to be.
Members chiefjason Posted September 26, 2013 Members Report Posted September 26, 2013 I've found one of the keys to good edges is prep work. I hand sand mine after edging to get the grain under control. Hand burnishing is OK. But know that I'm doing mine on the drill press, I only hand burnish on hard to reach spots. It makes a big difference IMO. Belt loops look good to me. One thing on the design, and maybe this is because it got too deep. But make sure you clear the mag release. The leather can release your mag if the mag release is covered. On the rare occasion I get it off, I'll go back and recut the holster to clear it. I'd rather have an odd cut and a clear mag release than a covered release. Quote
Members Red Cent Posted September 26, 2013 Members Report Posted September 26, 2013 How did you do such a neat job on the belt slots? A punch for the total hole? Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Members katsass Posted September 26, 2013 Members Report Posted September 26, 2013 (edited) From the old grumpy guy: The first thing that jumps right out at me is (are) the two pointy extensions for the belt loops. Points like that are something to steer clear of in any leather project. They may look good at this time but they WILL fray and end up looking poor in a reasonably short time. Your stitching needs to be much closer to the gun, which probably fits nice and tightly right now especially with the (IMO) over molding in the ejection port AND the trigger guard. As it stands, the gun WILL begin to move around in the holster sooner or later. The heavily molded areas will smooth out and retention will go to hell. Think about it -- each time you pull that shooter out of the holster, you push the leather out of the way at the two spots mentioned. It only takes a short time for the leather to begin to soften up and you lose the retention qualities that you have worked so hard to achieve and count on. Good retention can (and is) obtained by molding along the longer lines of your shooter. I always mold after stitch the thing up, and make sure that the stitching is tight enough to almost need to use substantial force getting the gun into the holster. It's obvious that you need to uncover the mag release button. It' very embarrassing to be on the line on your local range and as you draw the gun -- have the magazine end up on the ground in front of you -- and everyone else that may be watching. In the instance that this is to be used as a personal defense rig - it's downright spooky. I most certainly am not trying to dissuade you nor am I knocking your effort, but in the construction many factors must be considered, and better to learn now than find your work lacking at a place and time when it may REALLY count. Keep at it, we all started somewhere - and personally, my first tries were something that I hid away many years ago. Mike Edited September 26, 2013 by katsass Quote NOTE TO SELF: Never try to hold a cat and an operating Dust buster at the same time!! At my age I find that I can live without sex..........but not without my glasses. Being old has an advantage.......nobody expects me to do anything in a hurry.
Members malabar Posted September 26, 2013 Members Report Posted September 26, 2013 Mike might sound a little harsh but he's on the money on all accounts. There's more to holster design than there seems at first glance. The devil is in the details. One other thing: I would lower the slots a bit. That will reinforce them by getting material over the top of the slots. But let me tell you, that's very good for your first holster. You don't want to see my first holster. I certainly don't want you to see my first holster <g> Quote
Members Jeff L Posted September 26, 2013 Members Report Posted September 26, 2013 Katsass is spot on (as usual)... Nothing drives me crazier than seeing a mag release button covered! Quote
Members rundogdave Posted September 27, 2013 Author Members Report Posted September 27, 2013 How did you do such a neat job on the belt slots? A punch for the total hole? Thanks, but I think I can do better. I used a hole punch on each end, the an exacto knife to cut out the rest. Then tried to burnish the slot with a new burnisher chucked in my drill press, that I bought from one of the advertisers on this site. Katsass, you are not dissuading me in the least. I appreciate your honest criticism. I will take everyone's suggestions to heart. I'm working on new patterns already. And I'll go to bed tonight repeating my new mantra, "Do not cover the mag release, Do not cover the mag release, Do...not... cov....zzzzzzzzz. Quote I am what I am, but I ain't what I used to be.
Members MStarmer Posted September 27, 2013 Members Report Posted September 27, 2013 I tried the same one on my first one. Drilled one side, used a diamond awl on the other. I drilled mine with about the same drill size (.062) and it looked like crap, the awl punched side looked way better but it was tough to do. I spent some quality time sharpening the awl (made a huge difference) and then saw the idea to chuck it up in the drill press (turned off) just to use the leverage to punch it through. Made all the difference, looks better and a whole lot easier, not to mention not stabbing yourself. I would say very good for a first attempt. I'm on my 5th and 6th ones now, each time I mold one I modify my template just a bit trying to improve the fit and appearance. Did you form it with the safety on or off? Also I would say add some curve or swoop to the top in lieu of straight across, will improve the look and you can miss the mag release. I just use a french curve and swoop it up! This is my third one, it shows the curve nicely. Quote
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