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As a complete noobie, I really appreciate reading replies like those katsass created here. VERY helpful. Thanks!

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I also JUST started, I did experiment with using a vacuum storage bag. Between my house vac, then a Mini Mite hand vacuum pump. It formed, pulled the leather down tight. I even tried putting a large silica pack in with one, to try and give the moisture a place to go. Umm the moisture has no place to go. :( But once I pulled it out of the bag and let air dry, it kept it's shape very nicely. It sure saved a LOT of pressing with my tired old fingers.

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I went to Fastenal and bought various sizes of stainless steel ball bearings and some 1/4 stainless rod. Took them to a welding shop and had then weld the rods onto the ball bearings. I think the sizes of ball bearings were 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4. Here is a picture. I find myself using the two smaller ones the most and the 3/8 predominately. I use them around the trigger guard mostly. Buff them up real shinny on your buffer and they are good to go. They could probably use a better handle, but I generally just use a piece of wool scrap as a pad to protect my hand. And I use a Tandy boning tool too.

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Edited by lws380
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As a complete noobie, I really appreciate reading replies like those katsass created here. VERY helpful. Thanks!

Katasss is a wealth of knowledge I have found. I have only been doing this a couple years and to be honest I love his common sense approach to things.

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Since my last posting a few weeks ago my wife had gotten me a manual thin air press from a group up in Canada that makes them for the skate board industry. Originally I reservations but after using it for a couple months now and seeing now holster clients like it that bought holsters before I got the press and now after they love it. The press puts about 300psi and boy is it a work out but the retention it gives tooled holsters is amazing. I generally do a base stain then wet the holster put the BG in it and thin air press it for 2-5 minutes as tights as I can then release it and let it finish drying. Then a day later with the BG still in it I finish dying. Then remove BG for inside work. Once everything is set I burnish and seal. The thin air press ran us $60 and can be reused over and over.

www.roarocket.com

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Picked up a Round Hand Burnisher from Pro Edge Burnishers a while back. It's my go to tool for molding know. Really lets me push hard into the front of the trigger guard on Glocks. I mostly use the larger round top on it. I'll use if for final hand burnishing and pre burnishing after edging the damp edges. This has become a really handy tool to have around. And as a bonus, it's a beauty! I also have one of their burnisher for my drill press, the Hole Burnisher, and it is fantastic. Saves a ton of work. Gets in the belt slots and makes short work of them.

http://www.proedgeburnishers.com/hand-burnishers.html

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Posted

Picked up a Round Hand Burnisher from Pro Edge Burnishers a while back. It's my go to tool for molding know. Really lets me push hard into the front of the trigger guard on Glocks. I mostly use the larger round top on it. I'll use if for final hand burnishing and pre burnishing after edging the damp edges. This has become a really handy tool to have around. And as a bonus, it's a beauty! I also have one of their burnisher for my drill press, the Hole Burnisher, and it is fantastic. Saves a ton of work. Gets in the belt slots and makes short work of them.

http://www.proedgeburnishers.com/hand-burnishers.html

I have a bunch of Beary's stuff for my dremel and I love it. Well worth the money that's for sure!

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