Members Hillbilly tim Posted November 1, 2013 Members Report Posted November 1, 2013 Well I'll jump in here as I also have a class 4. For what it's worth, I have the same basic setup as Harold, redcent, has come to use. I however still use bonded nylon, I do use a lubepot with gly. saddle soap too. 277 top always and 207 and 277 bottom depending on what i'm doing. I do think in my testing that 207 on bottom is less problematic. I tested the 207 in the bottom by buying prewound bobbins of it on a paper core from springfield at 0.39 cents each. oddly enough, it works better loaded turning in reverse from how I load the 277 in the shuttle. Go figure!! I do agree with harold somewhat but I think there may be many more than 379 ways to thread a class 4. I had considered adding the threaded rod in top of the machine like the cowboy 4500 runs but, if you think it through it will only increase tension on your top thread because of the drag going through the 2 holes thereby exacerbating the problem. That said I do love my machine but, still have problems if I try something too thin. Yuk, what a mess it'll make!!!! Bro Tim Quote
Members silverback Posted November 1, 2013 Members Report Posted November 1, 2013 Hi,Greystone. You said the edges were cemented,did you allow enough dry time before sewing as I found if I get too keen the damp contact causes all sorts of problems acting as a tensioner.Hope this helps in some way. Quote
Members Rayban Posted November 1, 2013 Members Report Posted November 1, 2013 HB Tim, you mention thin stuff.....I usually, run 207 top and btm with a #25 needle, 6 spi, on most stuff I make. On thin stuff, like belt keepers, I leave the thread and tensions alone and drop to a #23 needle. I get a much better looking stitch. MMV, but it works for me. Quote Raybanwww.rgleather.net
Members Hillbilly tim Posted November 1, 2013 Members Report Posted November 1, 2013 Hmmm, I haven't tried that as yet. I'll give it a go, thanks!!! Bro Tim Quote
Cobra Steve Posted November 1, 2013 Report Posted November 1, 2013 Hello. In my opinion, this is a needle size/thread size issue. Ed and others are correct. Either drop down to a 207 thread top and bottom with the #23 needle, or use a #24 needle with the 277 thread. I prefer the first option. Thanks, Steve Quote Thank You Steve Tayrien Leather Machine Co., Inc. 2141 E. Philadelphia St. Unit "U" Ontario, California 91761 1-866-962-9880 http://www.leathermachineco.com cobra@leathermachineco.com
Members Greystone Posted November 1, 2013 Author Members Report Posted November 1, 2013 went up to a 24 needle and saw no difference then went up to a 25 and looks ok but a little large hole imho contact cement had 24 hrs drying outside inward,, row 1 with the 23 row 2 is with a 24 row 3 is the 25 front and back view might have it worked out David Quote www.facebook.com/pages/Greystone-Leather www.etsy.com/shop/GREYSTONELEATHER
Members Red Cent Posted November 1, 2013 Members Report Posted November 1, 2013 (edited) Today, after reading about all the suggestions about needles fitting a certain thread, I changed my #25 needle out for a #24. I use 277 poly on top and 207 poly on bottom. The result, sewing 2 pieces of 8-9 and one piece of 4-5 together, was the top thread laying flat with bobbin thread showing. Removed the old thread from the leather piece, replaced the needle with the 25 and it sewed great. And subsequent pieces also. 'Course, you have to remember how I have things set up. Edited November 1, 2013 by Red Cent Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
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