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shagey71

Trying To Get The Pancake Holster Just Right

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These are two of my more recent pancake holsters. Trying to get the right width and get the body side of the holster flat, while the outer layer does the work and folds around the gun... I'm a college student working out of my room, and I have nothing more than a few hand held leather tools and the little dremel. That being said I'm trying my best and would love a few tips for getting the most out of a little.

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Edited by shagey71

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Hey, those look good! I'm guessing you live off campus. I'm by no means an expert, but I'll thorw my two cents in, not in a critical sense, but just something to think about. Somethings are hard to tell from the picture, but the first holster looks much longer than the weapon. The boning on both holster's looks good. I might caution about too much on the trigger guard. With holsters safety always has to be the top priority. The molding there looks a little deep for my taste. I might suggest molding deep on the front of the trigger guard only and from both sides. This is especially true for a SA. You can create a sight channel for the front sight by taping a dowel, pencil, or a piece of scrap leather to the top of the weapon, to ensure the front sight doesn't snag as you draw the weapon. An over crituqe, perhaps, but as a matter of athestics, it might look better if the stitch lines were connected. There are a lot more knowledgable guys/gals here than I, and I'm sure they will chime in.

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Shagey,

It looks like you are off to a good start! Nice work so far.

You asked for advice, all I can see at this point is to "smooth" the leather while wet molding. I see some wrinkles along the barrel in one photo. That can be fixed very easy while leather is still damp.

Good work!

Rick

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Ike- thanks. You're right, the Kahr in the holster is the MK9 and the holster is for the P9, and I was waiting to get a hold of that gun to finish the muzzle area, as the MK9 is in fact much shorter. And I do live off-campus, hah!

Rick- I generally do not have that problem, but on that holster the nature of the leather being bent at a total 90° angle made it impossible for me to push those wrinkles back down, I tried several times and that is as good as I could manage in that area. Is there a chemical that would help that you know of? I feel as though the upper layers of the leather are "delaminating" and once loose, they won't smooth back down.

Sam

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Ike- thanks. You're right, the Kahr in the holster is the MK9 and the holster is for the P9, and I was waiting to get a hold of that gun to finish the muzzle area, as the MK9 is in fact much shorter. And I do live off-campus, hah!

Rick- I generally do not have that problem, but on that holster the nature of the leather being bent at a total 90° angle made it impossible for me to push those wrinkles back down, I tried several times and that is as good as I could manage in that area. Is there a chemical that would help that you know of? I feel as though the upper layers of the leather are "delaminating" and once loose, they won't smooth back down.

Sam

It could be that the "Delam" is loose fiber leather, perhaps the piece was taken out of the hide close to the belly or neck areas. Tighter grain found closer to the Back Area or Rump will stay together, turn 90 degrees, and mold smooth. (Almost Always, lol!!)

If using a double shoulder stay away from edges for the piece you know needs tight turns.

JMHO, Keep on! they look good!

Rick

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Looks pretty good to me. It is tough working in a small space huh? I am working out of an efficiency garage apartment right now. My living room is my shop. I have had the same problems with loose fibers. All I can figure is it was from the cheap Tandy leather i had been using when I first got started. Keep up the good work!

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Lookslike a great start. What are you using for thread? It looks like Sinew. If so switch to a waxed linen 3 to 7 cord would be about the right size. even Tandy sells it. Sinew is best for period pieces. Linen thread gives a better look to the stitches.

Michael

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