Gomph-Hackbarth Stamping Tools

[MattW]

Sorry, Gomph-Hackbarth

Hey Matt!

Who's head knife are you talking about, Hackbarth or Seigel? It wasn't clear in your post.

rickeyfro,

I can't answer about membership to order from Seigel. I know Carlos has a tax number and can order from Weaver's, but I don't think that Seigel requires one. If you would rather, you can call Ellis Barnes at the number in my first post and talk directly to him. From his note he sounds like quite a character.

Mike

[TheTrooper]

Hey Guys.

does anyone of you have the email adress of Ellis Barnes of Gomph-Hackbarth ?!?

Cheers,

Marcel

[cowpounder]

I read about someone burning off the chrome of the crafttools and it made the impressions a lot crisper, does anyone here do that and how would one go about doing it?

The easy way to take the crome off is to use Hydrochloric acid. This will take it off in a hurry.

[Mike Craw]

Hey Marcel!

The email address at the tool factory in Arizona is:

lon_von@hotmail.com

Lonnie Height is working with Ellis Barnes and takes care of the emails. I've talked to both of them on the phone, and they're great to deal with.

Mike

[TheTrooper]

Hi Mike thank you so much.

I will contact them and here about this great offer !!!

Cheers,

M.

[Lippy]

Is this a good starter set? What type of stamping can be done with just these tools. Which tools would you add to make up a good "beginner's" stamping set? Please help as I know nothing about leather stamping and would like to learn more.

Cheers!

[Art]

I Lippy,

Ellis sent me a laser print of a Sheridan carving piece that was done with just the 15 tools in the set. You can do quite a bit. The tools are excellent and leave crisp deep impressions (if they are supposed to), the only thing I worry about is rusting, so I use a little Ballistol® on them now and again. I guess you could take them to a gunsmith and have them hot blued if you wanted a little more protection, but then it would eventually wear off the working end.

Art

Is this a good starter set? What type of stamping can be done with just these tools. Which tools would you add to make up a good "beginner's" stamping set? Please help as I know nothing about leather stamping and would like to learn more.

Cheers!

[electrathon]

the only thing I worry about is rusting,

A coat of automotive paste wax will seal them up nicely. Fast, easy and cheap.

I have a set and they are a great starting point if you are looking to upgrade from crafttools.

Aaron

[lands10]

Hi to all,

I'm a first time contributer to any forum whatsoever so please forgive me if I miss some protocol. I've been carving leather for about two years now. I developed a nice relationship with the manager of Tandy Leather in CT, so naturally all my tools are from them. I do pretty good work but I always wondered if I purchased "quality" tools from a real tool maker if it would make a difference. I could afford to spend money on good tools but I was reluctant to spend any if it really wouldn't bring me to the next level. After reading about the introductory special on your site from Ellis Barnes, I ordered the set. I reasoned that the cost per tool was a little over a dollar more than the Tandy tools if you bought the special. I just received them today and I would like to contribute my opinion. I first would like to add that most of my work is your typical "Tandy/Stohlman" style and I'm looking to start phasing into "Sheridan" style carving. The bevelers are fantastic. I hadn't beveled so easy before. They "walk" very easily and leave a clean track and sharp edge. They're angle is just was I was looking for. The seeders are clearer and require virtually no effort to imprint. You could stamp the center of a border without mashing down your edges. the border tool is also beautifully made. It is crisp, sharp edged and adds character which I wasn't really getting with Tandy's tools. However, for the type of work I do, I find that at least with the tools that were sent in the intro kit, some of Tandy's tools I still prefer. The veiner is sharp, very sharp. I'm not stamping saddle leather so it really is too "stark" for me. The same goes for the camouflage tool. Tandy's pear shaders "walk" easier in my opinion. There is a roundness to them that helps them roll, which Ellis's does not have. I haven't used the "thumbprint" yet but since I wouldn't have a tandy equivilant I'm sure that the professional made tool would be better. So the bottom line is that you really need to determine what your actual needs are for the style are are working in. As it is in many cases, what gives you the look you are after is the best tool for you. It could be a inexpensive mass produced tool or it could be a custom made to order tool. Each one has their place. Thanks for letting me share.

[BradB]

Hi to all,

I'm a first time contributer to any forum whatsoever so please forgive me if I miss some protocol. I've been carving leather for about two years now. I developed a nice relationship with the manager of Tandy Leather in CT, so naturally all my tools are from them. I do pretty good work but I always wondered if I purchased "quality" tools from a real tool maker if it would make a difference. I could afford to spend money on good tools but I was reluctant to spend any if it really wouldn't bring me to the next level. After reading about the introductory special on your site from Ellis Barnes, I ordered the set. I reasoned that the cost per tool was a little over a dollar more than the Tandy tools if you bought the special. I just received them today and I would like to contribute my opinion. I first would like to add that most of my work is your typical "Tandy/Stohlman" style and I'm looking to start phasing into "Sheridan" style carving. The bevelers are fantastic. I hadn't beveled so easy before. They "walk" very easily and leave a clean track and sharp edge. They're angle is just was I was looking for. The seeders are clearer and require virtually no effort to imprint. You could stamp the center of a border without mashing down your edges. the border tool is also beautifully made. It is crisp, sharp edged and adds character which I wasn't really getting with Tandy's tools. However, for the type of work I do, I find that at least with the tools that were sent in the intro kit, some of Tandy's tools I still prefer. The veiner is sharp, very sharp. I'm not stamping saddle leather so it really is too "stark" for me. The same goes for the camouflage tool. Tandy's pear shaders "walk" easier in my opinion. There is a roundness to them that helps them roll, which Ellis's does not have. I haven't used the "thumbprint" yet but since I wouldn't have a tandy equivilant I'm sure that the professional made tool would be better. So the bottom line is that you really need to determine what your actual needs are for the style are are working in. As it is in many cases, what gives you the look you are after is the best tool for you. It could be a inexpensive mass produced tool or it could be a custom made to order tool. Each one has their place. Thanks for letting me share.

Any of those tools you decide you don't like you could send my direction!!!

Just joking, thanks for posting your experience with them!!

[whinewine]

Hi to all,

I'm a first time contributer to any forum whatsoever so please forgive me if I miss some protocol. I've been carving leather for about two years now. I developed a nice relationship with the manager of Tandy Leather in CT, so naturally all my tools are from them. I do pretty good work but I always wondered if I purchased "quality" tools from a real tool maker if it would make a difference. I could afford to spend money on good tools but I was reluctant to spend any if it really wouldn't bring me to the next level. After reading about the introductory special on your site from Ellis Barnes, I ordered the set. I reasoned that the cost per tool was a little over a dollar more than the Tandy tools if you bought the special. I just received them today and I would like to contribute my opinion. I first would like to add that most of my work is your typical "Tandy/Stohlman" style and I'm looking to start phasing into "Sheridan" style carving. The bevelers are fantastic. I hadn't beveled so easy before. They "walk" very easily and leave a clean track and sharp edge. They're angle is just was I was looking for. The seeders are clearer and require virtually no effort to imprint. You could stamp the center of a border without mashing down your edges. the border tool is also beautifully made. It is crisp, sharp edged and adds character which I wasn't really getting with Tandy's tools. However, for the type of work I do, I find that at least with the tools that were sent in the intro kit, some of Tandy's tools I still prefer. The veiner is sharp, very sharp. I'm not stamping saddle leather so it really is too "stark" for me. The same goes for the camouflage tool. Tandy's pear shaders "walk" easier in my opinion. There is a roundness to them that helps them roll, which Ellis's does not have. I haven't used the "thumbprint" yet but since I wouldn't have a tandy equivilant I'm sure that the professional made tool would be better. So the bottom line is that you really need to determine what your actual needs are for the style are are working in. As it is in many cases, what gives you the look you are after is the best tool for you. It could be a inexpensive mass produced tool or it could be a custom made to order tool. Each one has their place. Thanks for letting me share.

I have to add, that my preference, if given a choice, would be to have checkered bevelers instead in the set. I almost NEVER use smooth bevelers & I also prefer checkered pear shaders. I just think they give an added burnishing that is not present with the smooth tools.

[ClayB]

I just got off the phone with Ellis, and he asked if I could update the price on this introductory tool set. As of the first of the year, the price was raised to $145 + $5 shipping. That still makes the price less than $10 per tool, and for tools of this quality, I think that's a pretty good price. I got a set of these for Christmas, have used them quite a bit, and I really like them. The bevelers really walk nice. The cams and veiners make really clean, sharp impressions. They have added 30 or more tools to this line of tools made out of 1018 steel. You can call them for an impression sheet, and a price list. I have one on the way, and will try and post it when it comes.

Phone 520 642-3891

Email

[HarryB]

I agree with Skip; some of the REAL old Craftools and others are good but there came a time when profit outweighed performance, I guess. Most of the tools purchased from "craft" stores became very mediocre. Then people like Ellis bought the rights to the Hackbarth tools, Bob Beard and a few others started making really nice tools. BUT, instead of paying $6.95 for my whole set like I did when I started, I now pay $25 + per tool. And, you get what you pay for.

[ClayB]

Here is the impression sheet Ellis sent me of some of the other tools he is making out of the 1018 tool steel. The prices of each stamp is written above it. As you can see from the prices on these tools, the introductory special he has been offering is a REALLY good deal.

[JHayek]

I read about someone burning off the chrome of the crafttools and it made the impressions a lot crisper, does anyone here do that and how would one go about doing it?

jumping in here.... the old tools you could heat the crome off and then file them to suit but the newer ones just melt into a useless blob. dont waste money on cheap stuff just save up anbuy from ellis.. while you still can

[hidepounder]

I've noticed there seems to be some concern about rust with regard to stamping tools. I have a number of old tools that were made out of bolts and nails and who knows what and they all accumulate surface rust. This doesn't concern me at all. Most of these old tools develop a patina, rather than surface rust. The ones made of nails seem to rust the worst, I suppose, due to the poor quality of the steel. I just make a few impressions on a piece of scrap and I'm ready to go. As Art said, you could use a little Ballistol (good tip Art, I hadn't thought of that) or you could spray the entire tool with some clear acrylic if you're really worried about it and want them to stay shiney (I would avoid the impression surface). However, I really don't think it's a problem. I have modified a lot of Tandy tools, they rusted, I used them...no big deal. For me, my old rusty handmade tools are sort of point of pride...I know that there aren't any others like them! I just purchased an old veiner from Bob Douglas that was made out of a nail and I bought some of Ellis' new steel tools and can't wait for them to turn dark. When you look at my rack of tools, you won't see much chrome...and I like it that way!

Mike I didn't mean to change your subject here...I probably should have stated a new topic...but I noticed the concerns and just charged ahead. Sorry!

Just some rambling thoughts....

Bob

Edited March 15, 2009 by hidepounder

[gtwister09]

To add to Bob's post, I have about 30+ tools from Bob Dellis that Ray Pohja made for him (a couple of them were made by others but the majority were made by Ray) while they were working at Porters. I use several of these quite a bit and they are literally bolts and a couple of nails. I have had no problems with them and I know that Bob tooled with them a lot more than I have ever done.

I also have about another 40-50 that are made by various others that are bolts and nails.

I can honestly attest to the fact that there is no issue. These tools are not blued, browned or anything.

That's my mileage and yours may vary but up to this point it has never been an issue for me.

Regards,

Ben

[ghstrydr164]

To prevent active rust on your carbon steel stamps and black marks on your leather get some mild acid such as oxcilic acid, distilled vinegar, lemon juice or whatever.

Remove all active rust with steel wool steel wire brush (not brass) small tooth brush type works fine for those crevices, you may need to use some small pick such as a needle for small areas. Once the rust and scale has been removed wash the stamps with a strong grease cutter to remove any crease and oil. Place the tools in the mild acid and let stand and agitate from time to time until you see a darkening of the stamps. When darkening appears remove the stamps and rinse with clear water. Let air dry and repeat the dip process again. The stamps may require three or four treatments to build up a good layer of oxidation which will help keep them from rusting.

Once you are satisfied with the oxidizing rinse let air dry and spray with WD 40 once the WD 40 dries buff the stamps with a very stiff rag such as canvass. Once you have finished buffing you should wash stamps in a mild liquid hand dishwashing detergent to remove WD 40, dry tools well with a hair dryer and you should be in good shape for no rust or black marks on your leather. This oxidizing process serves the same as bluing on steel.

The color of the oxidation will very from light grey to dark black depending on the steel alloy of your stamps and the number of treatments you use.

[hidepounder]

To prevent active rust on your carbon steel stamps and black marks on your leather get some mild acid such as oxcilic acid, distilled vinegar, lemon juice or whatever.

Remove all active rust with steel wool steel wire brush (not brass) small tooth brush type works fine for those crevices, you may need to use some small pick such as a needle for small areas. Once the rust and scale has been removed wash the stamps with a strong grease cutter to remove any crease and oil. Place the tools in the mild acid and let stand and agitate from time to time until you see a darkening of the stamps. When darkening appears remove the stamps and rinse with clear water. Let air dry and repeat the dip process again. The stamps may require three or four treatments to build up a good layer of oxidation which will help keep them from rusting.

Once you are satisfied with the oxidizing rinse let air dry and spray with WD 40 once the WD 40 dries buff the stamps with a very stiff rag such as canvass. Once you have finished buffing you should wash stamps in a mild liquid hand dishwashing detergent to remove WD 40, dry tools well with a hair dryer and you should be in good shape for no rust or black marks on your leather. This oxidizing process serves the same as bluing on steel.

The color of the oxidation will very from light grey to dark black depending on the steel alloy of your stamps and the number of treatments you use.

Thanks for posting this.....I didn't know it was that easy!

Bob

[Mike Craw]

Hey Bob!

I don't consider this my thread and your thoughts on rust worries are right on target. Ellis Barnes and I talked about this a little bit during a phone conversation. That brings up another thought. If you want to talkt to a master metalsmith who has probably forgotten more about tool making than any of us are likely to learn, give Ellis a call at his shop. He will expound at length, give his unvarnished opinion (occasionally profane) and I always wind up with a grin for having called him.

And I should mention, I'm a big fan of your tooling Bob!

Mike