First Saddle Project - Advice Appreciated

[rdl123]

Bob - I appreciate this insight - Being a complete amateur I was not aware of this - However, set out like you have explained it I can see the issue. I know of a maker in Maple Creek Saskatchewan who rectifies this issue by running a piece of 5oz latigo as a wear guard - I hadn't realized why he did this until now...It is easily replaceable and obviously he does this so it takes the wear - Not the rigging plate. I think I will do the same for this saddle. I will try to find a photo of the wear guard I am taking about...

And, thanks Bob for the information - Proves that no matter how much you study this, there is always more information and tips to be had!

Ron

[rdl123]

Here is a picture of the wear guard I was talking about above.

Bob - I'd appreciate your thoughts about this - And, I will definitely be using plugs on saddle #2.

rdl

[oltoot]

I second the plug motion. I have, for many years now, used plugs to prevent any "bumps" for something to rub against and invite wear. To the same end, I try to shape skirt, seat, rigging so that they all end in a different place and provide as many long slopes and as few abrubt "bumps" where stirrup leather, fender move. It means a little more leather and must be done thoughtfully so as not to end up with something too thick for your stitcher to handle but has paid off in the comparitively long lifes of skirt and plate rigs so constructed. And for the same reason, I avoid "doming" rivits in that area choosing instead a flat finish to the heads, even slightly recessed.

[rdl123]

I'd like to know - Do you install your riggings over swell cover or under swell cover?

[oltoot]

Plate under, skirt over, front rings go on first before anything else

[rdl123]

Here is this past weekends progress: Swell cover on, hand hole finished and horn capped and wrapped. Horn still requires the final, top piece. Had the horn cover fitting perfectly but when I glued it and then put it on I managed to get it up from the swell a bit...

Horn on this tree was 100% flat so I made a 4" circle that skives to zero from middle to give it a dome effect - This is nailed and glued over the horn filler.

Also, to all who have helped and given me needed insight and corrections - Thanks very much...I am looking forward to the second saddle project and avoiding mistakes I have made on this one.

Ron

[rktaylor]

Ron,

Thanks for the update. It looks like you are making some progress. The swell cover looks really clean over the top of the riggings. Some say they go over and some say they go under. Probably won't start a fight like the idea of all leather vs. metal strainers on a ground seat though. I just want to soak up as much information as possible so I can decide what I prefer.

The first ride is not too far off. Probably closer than spring for you.

Randy

[rdl123]

I am thinking of going with exposed stirrup leathers on this saddle.

Any one have insight in to the pros and cons?

I've searched quite a bit and haven't come up with anything definite.

My current saddle has exposed stirrup leathers and I have had no issues...

Thanks! R.

[AdamTill]

I considered them for mine, but in the end decided that the straight-ish leading edge of the fender that they really best suit didn't fit well with the very rounded saddle lines I was going with. I think the only real downside is extra weight and thickess, and the more limited range of cosmetic choices.

On the plus side, they look really nice tooled up.

[oltoot]

To each his own, but it brings me to a point I arrived at years ago when I reduced the discussion on either an exposed or a 'regular' double leather to the question "why either?". I have for years now made and used 1/2 stirrup leathers standard for my saddles and repairs and offer doubles of either the exposed or regular kind as options. Options which are almost never exercised. If one is going for 'old timey' aura, then use them in their historical context. With a fender that has a small contact area secured with 2-3 copper rivits and a straight bottom line secured with 2 rivits. Include a liner which doubles the bottom of the assembly and makes the area that receives the weight of the stirrup double. Either way you'll have a result that weighs a couple of pounds more and has two moving or moved against edges to wear when one will more than suffice and, in fact reduce wear overall.