Sylvia Report post Posted July 10, 2014 I am looking to get a rivet and snap press, and these prices are very appealing. Question, is it worth spending extra $50 and get the PM5 Grommet & Snap Press Machine or should I just get the back one for $60? Hi Tossik: I can't answer your question because I don't have that machine either. However, you certainly can give Goldstar a call and see what they have to say about either machine. The deal I set up is for the the green machine and it's perfectly serviceable for most of us. If you do a lot of volume then I would definitely got for the kick press rather than a hand press. The difference Is see with the black press is a deeper throat and a longer padded handle. So I guess it would really depend on what you place your snaps or grommets or what not on. As with anything... get the best you can afford. Do definitely call Dave at the told free number and question him. Ask him for a similar deal to the "Sylvia from Idaho Deal... then report back here and let us know what he says. Oh and FYI... he's going to be carrying leather sewing machines very soon. Yes, they are Juki 440 clones... like the Cobra 4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tossik Report post Posted July 10, 2014 Sylvia, what deal did you broker for the green one? I need something for rivets and snaps. Thanks for the info though ill be calling Dave about the press. What do people use to press down a makers mark? Seems like these presses don't have a lot of room for a makers stamp. I looked at a CS Osborn W-1 but it looks pricey. I'm just lost right now. I have some money saved up, but don't want to be throwing it out Thanks for the help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RavenAus Report post Posted July 10, 2014 Oh my, I just found the same press here in Australia! Still need to get the snap dies separately but I can get the press off ebay, local pickup, with the 3 grommet dies for $59 and it's an importer I already go to :D It's a shame they don't have the other dies too but they are a new line here. I'll see if the importer can get more dies... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted July 10, 2014 It's the Green press, line 20 and line 24 ring snap dies (like we use) and an 8mm rivet die... and 100 8mm rivets for for $89.99 shipped. I do know that his hole punches for the press are for fabric or canvas and do not work on leather I don't press my makers mark anymore. I used to use an arbor press for that and hammering was a problem since it bounced on me a lot. I suggest a VERY heavy mallet or maul (like 2lbs or more) line it up, draw back and smack it hard ONCE. done....just don't miss and hit your hand. lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted July 10, 2014 Oh my, I just found the same press here in Australia! Still need to get the snap dies separately but I can get the press off ebay, local pickup, with the 3 grommet dies for $59 and it's an importer I already go to :D It's a shame they don't have the other dies too but they are a new line here. I'll see if the importer can get more dies... Awesome! The dies shouldn't be too hard for importer to get. I wouldn't pay much more than $20 Oz Dollars for the die sets. If all else fails... you could get them from Dave.. he does ship world wide but I'm afraid your duties and shipping cost would really hit hard. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Camerius Report post Posted July 10, 2014 I got a Chinese 11 part rivet setting set for about 10$ including free shipping from ebay. Works as it should and intended. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted July 10, 2014 Camerus... are you talking about a set of hand tools and anvils? That's a good price. It is just that many of us have issues with hand setting rivets and snaps. As for myself, even with antique hand setters that have a good ridge around the edge, I would fail to get a good roll and the snap would pull right off.... Or worse the newer tools I have would drive past the ridge and just flair the tube and not roll at all and again.. the snap would pull off.. the $90 was well worth the investment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RavenAus Report post Posted July 10, 2014 For a press or hand-held? Sylvia, for me the problem is the cap almost always moves, no matter the setting tools I'm using, so the tube bends and the snap pulls off... This is why I was so excited to see them here in Oz! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted July 10, 2014 LOL oh yes and that too... I've actually found myself angry enough to beat the rivets so hard that the metal cap tore... lol That's when I started turning down jobs that required rivets or snaps... unless I could convert them to buckles... I just would gracefully as possible decline the job. Some of that "moving" is a problem with too long of a stem on the snap or rivet... but I so know what you mean... GRRRR. lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tossik Report post Posted July 10, 2014 Sylvia, can you tell me how the dies are attached to the press? is it thread? if so what is the size of it? Any chance for a photo? I was thinking that perhaps I can use the these dies (can't beat $20 per set) and fit them into the CS Osborne press. This way I can use the press for my makers mark as well as all the riveting and snapping tools. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted July 10, 2014 Hi Tossik. Yes the top dies are threaded, the bottom dies are drop in. I do not think they will fit the Osborne press without an adapter of some sort. However it might be worth the $20 to see if they would work. Not sure I can get a photo to post here... but I'll try. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tossik Report post Posted July 10, 2014 That is perfect. I think I can get an adapter milled. Thank you so much Sylvia for the photo! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted July 10, 2014 I wish I could find my husband's thread sizer doohickey- thingy that would help getting the threads right. You are welcome for the photo.... you are just lucky that I had a set of dies that came in a couple days ago sitting on my desk and my camera nearby. lol I'm about to paint these dies with nail polish so I can quickly grab the pair I need without having to look at the business end of each dye... I'll just grab the purple set. Someday I want to have a block made for them but for now the color coding will have to work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tossik Report post Posted July 10, 2014 Well that would be nice, but I am still thankful for the picture you attached. Question- what do you guys use to punch holes with? I got a few hand held punches that I just made a pouch for (http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56914) but its all free hand and always not aligned. If I want to do a belt, how and with what should I punch the holes with? The rivets need small holes, but all i see is 1/4 inch hole punches for the press... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted July 10, 2014 Hand punches. I had the most difficult time with aligning holes until I found the Templates that Black River Laser makes. Look here. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CENTERING-AIDS-2-PIECE-TEMPLATE-SET-CRAFTAID-STENCILS-FOR-LEATHER-CRAFT-NEW-/140816612487?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c952fc87 It's easy to line up the width of the leather to the lines on the template, hold it down and mark with an awl, then just hold your punch with the leading edge centered on the mark and whack a hole in it. (I tend to have the belt or what ever long-wise going away from me) I've not done it yet but maybe it is something you can work on. Tandy has a handle with several tube punch fittings that screw into it. The screw in part does not fit the press, but I've often thought that an adapter could be made from a rivet die.... then thinking on that... it would almost force you to find the center of the belt, then the width of the holes, mark the placement on either side... a lot of layout time right there. Next I thought about a gang punch for different sized belt widths... and that's $$$ to get made. So I stuck with my hand punches and the Black River Template. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tossik Report post Posted July 10, 2014 Hmmm. Okay almost same case as me Time to put the creative juices flowing and get something setup for easier work flow! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RavenAus Report post Posted July 29, 2014 Got my hand press and I love it :D I've only got the three eyelet dies that came with it so far but I'm ordering the other sets this week. I'm getting Line 20, Line 24 and 8mm rivet die sets. Can't wait! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted July 29, 2014 Raven: It's amazing isn't it? Install the dies, put the hardware in, put the material on it... squish squish squish.... and done. I tell ya I hug mine every time I set a rivet or snap. A friend who got one of these used the 8mm rivet set of dies to set a brown stud. He emailed me asking if I had ever set one of those by hand because he couldn't figure out his hand setting anvil... uh nope...never used them at all. Then it dawned on me that a brown stud is just a "bulbous" rivet... I suggest that he use the rivet die. He reported back that it works great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meagain Report post Posted August 11, 2014 Does this unit require screwing to a bench? Or is it solid - with no tipping - on it's own. Tipping would suck. I'm new and this is overkill for me but I cannot nail down this rivet thing at all so hopefully this will fix that. Course it would help if I had good rivets which... well... I think mine 'must' suck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted August 11, 2014 It's pretty heavy but I would at least screw it down to a hunk of 3/4" plywood if you need it portable and stable. The trick with rivets even with a setter is that the stems need to be just the right length for your leather. If you don't have the right length the caps pop off or the hole thing goes sideways. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cgleathercraft Report post Posted August 11, 2014 I'm using it without fastening it to the workbench. When I get more room i will do so and probably fashion a foot pedal for it too so I can use both hands to work my material around. As long as your careful you should be ok. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meagain Report post Posted August 11, 2014 So it's OK without attaching it sounds. That's good. I think my rivets are the right size. They are tandy double cap with the little crimp at the bottom of the stem and a cap. This makes zero sense to me. I can pull them apart. Twice I was able to get it to stay but still with more effort - pulled them apart. I'm making dog collars and this is beyond not acceptable. Trying to attach 2 8-9oz leather together. I have no idea what the post is supposed to do inside because I don't see any room for the post to go beyond the crimp thing. Then I worry it's not hammered all the way then it bends/tilts. Maybe I should go with Chicago screws but those scare me also. Or try the rivet type with the back having a hole in it which I'm not yet sure what are different about those. LOL Yes I'm new. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted August 11, 2014 Hey we've all been there. And for a lot of us setting rivets by hand is or has been the bane of a lot our leather journey. I've seen online at youtube where some folks attach their rivet setter to the plywood like I said. I have mine bolted to an old sewing machine table. Don't be afraid of chicago screws though. All you need to "secure" them is some Loctite brand "Removable Threadlocker" It's important that you get the removeable...remember that. 1 drop on the threads and it will take some good force to get the screw to back out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RavenAus Report post Posted August 12, 2014 With the double cap and the single cap rivets, the size is the main thing. The post has to come through the leather about 2mm and you want the hole tight enough to be just a bit of a pain to get the rivet in. Then the most important thing to me is a solid surface to hit them on. I have given up on using a dished anvil for them and just rest the back on a flat surface as it's more likely to slip when it's sitting on a curve. The hammer I use now makes a heck of a difference too, it's a deadfall hammer. What that means is you can hit something and you don't get recoil. It has really helped me with rivets and posts, I bend a lot less rivets now With the rivet press, I use a C clamp to stop it moving about on my bench. I like to have the jaws of the press hanging over the bench for when I need a little more space I'm still waiting for my rivet and snap dies though, I hope they work as well as the eyelet ones! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meagain Report post Posted August 12, 2014 OK - Well I have Tandy Medium sized (5/16th aka 8mm?) double caps. They bother me. The ends rattle I'm putting 2 rivets on each end of the collar and I don't trust them. Just leather on leather with a d-ring held by 2 rivets. :| If anyone knows where there might be a better quality/stronger version of these - I'm all ears.I think I'm going to buy this press. Don't really need snaps though, at least not the 24 but I'll ponder that. I have 2 big questions.... 1) I'd like to set Crystal rivets in 5, 6, 10mm sizes. I'd also like to venture into Swarovski flat backs with separate pronged rim thingies (a youtube shows the tandy using 1/4 rim spot. Would anyone know if I can just use the 8mm rivet die for this? Or something generic for the various sizes? 2) Pondering the hole cutter option for it. I'm worried it would be difficult to accurately see where you are lined up for the hole - i.e. if the size of the dye makes it impossible to eyeball where the hole will end up accurately? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites