Branding Iron Too Hot?

[qlthreadhead]

Hi all. Question related to branding irons -- I just got mine in the mail and am using it on some pretty thin leather -- 2/3oz for wallets. In a rush to get new pieces up on my site I went ahead and applied my finish (Bee Natural RTC) to a few of my wallets (all are hand dyed with the regular Fiebings spirit based dye) and when I went to test my brand on some scrap (finish applied to scrap for test purposes), it sizzled and over burned the leather. I'm turning down the heat right now to see if that helps but am concerned because in many of my tests so far it appears to have MELTED the finish. 2 issues there -- I thought the RTC was beeswax based (am I wrong?? it's acting like plastic) and is my brand just too hot?

Additional issue: When branding UNFINISHED leather (post-dye application) it appears to burn even faster, probably because of the dye content. Oh and the coat pure neatsfoot oil applied after the dye job.

A quick Google search showed a few folks who dampened their leather with water prior to branding but I've only used water in conjunction with the Delrin and steel makers stamps, not branding irons.

I'm turning down the temperature now but am wondering if I'm missing anything. Had it at 50% heat capacity and realize that may be more appropriate for a 7/8oz leather. Will update if I see an improvement upon dropping to 30% but any advice for branding leather would be greatly appreciated.

[qlthreadhead]

At 30% the iron leaves a faint mark. I'm thinking my best bet going forward is about 45% heat capacity on unfinished leather. Is there any way to get the brand on the already finished wallets?

[electrathon]

RTC is not a wax, more of an acrylic, similar to mop and glow.

When I heat press I dampen the leather when I can (prefer to do it on unsealed leather. It gives a nice burnish that way.

[katsass]

FWIW from the grumpy guy: I don't go in for the new fangled electric burners - I make a series of "running irons" which are heated with a propane torch and applied (always) to bare leather. I heat the little beggars to a nice yellow-red and apply immediately to the dead cow skin. Believe it or don't but the smell reminds me of branding time on the ranch I grew up on. Also the place that when 10 years old, I was told that if you don't work, you don't eat. I worked and ate. A pic of a gussied up, 'branded' Tom Threeperson style holster for the vintage S&W Mike

Edited November 16, 2013 by katsass

[Curley Fryes]

Nice work Katsass!

[qlthreadhead]

thanks all! @Katsass I went for the iron because I'm using it to brand my logo -- pretty small lettering, and wanted the branding effect instead of just the impression. However, I realized I can still use the tip of my branding iron as a stamp (it has a flat surface when it's unscrewed from the actual iron) and I'm going to order a handle for easier use. as far as my MO for branding goes: I just did a bunch of tests on 2/3 oz leather that was dyed but unoiled and very stiff and dry -- it looks great as long as I keep a steady hand and don't hold it there too long. I just oiled a bit of recently dyed leather and will check tomorrow if the brand holds just as well or if it's better to do before the coat of neatsfoot.

[Northmount]

Light coat of neatsfoot oil should not bother you. Some finishes will do strange things. The hotter the iron, the shorter the time required to burn the brand. I'd go with a cooler iron and hold it longer. Also, make a templet out of pressed hardboard or similar to use as a guide, so you can position the brand carefully. Hold or clamp it down. Then you can lift your iron off, see if it needs more time, or if one side is too light. Then place your iron back in the guide to adjust time, pressure, or correct for being less than square while holding it.

Cooler iron will not tend to shrivel up thin leather as easily too.

Tom