Members vaalpens Posted November 17, 2013 Author Members Report Posted November 17, 2013 In addition there are several alternatives available. Lexol Nf is widely available and Weaver has its own product Neatslene Light. And Matt S was right on, FOB dye is not oil based it is just different, not necessarily better. if you were getting what you wanted some other way, go back to it. If you have neatsfoot to use up try having the dyed holster be quite damp when the oil is applied. That will allow light coats to be truly light. And not all neatsfoot is created equal even if it is labeled pure. Caveat Emporer! I think I need to try to have damp leather before I apply the oil to allow light coats. I think with the dry leather I have found that if you apply it lightly then it is blotchy, where the damp leather will maybe help to apply just a light coat and still have an even darkening of the leather. Thanks for the advise! Quote
Members vaalpens Posted November 17, 2013 Author Members Report Posted November 17, 2013 Always a trade-off somewhere. I've used the fiebings "regular" dyes and the "pro" dyes. Not so very different in the application, but if there was one worth noting it would be the black. The "regular" black requires a good bit of elbow grease and buffing, but buffs to a nice shine, even before applying finish. The oil dye, conversely, requires little bufffing, but will not attain the same shine, even with intense buffing (I admit, I haven't tried a powered buffer). Yet another 'opinion' on teh neatsfoot - yep, I use it. Only on the GRAIN side (never the flesh side) and I like the result I get. Dwight does the flesh side, and likes the result he gets. So, go figger... The reason why I switched to the oil based dye is because my pieces came out very hard when I used the regular dye. I have read somewhere that the oil based dye will not harden the leather as much so I decide to give it a try. I only put oil on the grain side. Maybe I should just put it on the flesh side if I know it will darken the color on the grain side. Without any dye I use the oil to darken the leather so the grain side is probably the correct side to apply it. If I only want to put some oil back into the leather and don't want to make it any darker, then maybe applying it to the flesh side is the way to go. Just another way for me to try out. Thanks for mentioning both, I never thought of only applying it to the flesh side. Quote
Members Dwight Posted November 19, 2013 Members Report Posted November 19, 2013 Yet another 'opinion' on teh neatsfoot - yep, I use it. Only on the GRAIN side (never the flesh side) and I like the result I get. Dwight does the flesh side, and likes the result he gets. So, go figger... Uhhh, . . . that's some kind of misunderstanding, . . . when Dwight uses neatsfoot oil on a project, . . . the first thing is he determines that something in the process may have displaced the original oil, . . . OR, . . . the leather seems dryer than usual. He then uses a small brush, . . . and very lightly adds a coat of oil to the HAIR side of the leather. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted November 19, 2013 Contributing Member Report Posted November 19, 2013 Got it .... two votes for grain side. Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members vaalpens Posted November 19, 2013 Author Members Report Posted November 19, 2013 Uhhh, . . . that's some kind of misunderstanding, . . . when Dwight uses neatsfoot oil on a project, . . . the first thing is he determines that something in the process may have displaced the original oil, . . . OR, . . . the leather seems dryer than usual. He then uses a small brush, . . . and very lightly adds a coat of oil to the HAIR side of the leather. May God bless, Dwight Dwight, thanks for clearing it up. I'm not sure when the leather seems dryer than normal since it always seems dry to me. I did test a few more pieces and on one piece just applied a very light coat. The result seemed uneven a first, but after i left it for a a while the oil evened out and the end result was not as dark as the first piece I did. I properly overdid it the first time in an attempt to get an even finish. Moderation and patience is the key. Got it .... two votes for grain side. Thanks. Sound like there is a consensus. Quote
Members JoyceLee Posted April 11, 2014 Members Report Posted April 11, 2014 So interesting... My question that tags along with this one is whether or not Feibings Pro Oil Dye is appropriate for bracelets and belts... I was told that it bleeds and discolors skin and clothing... Thanks... Quote
Members Dwight Posted April 11, 2014 Members Report Posted April 11, 2014 So interesting... My question that tags along with this one is whether or not Feibings Pro Oil Dye is appropriate for bracelets and belts... I was told that it bleeds and discolors skin and clothing... Thanks... Probably told to you by some tree hugger trying to sell you on the water based stuff. No, . . . it does not bleed if it is properly applied, . . . properly sealed. The single, one, and only bleeder I ever had was from a bottle of the old Tandy water base stuff. I made myself a shoulder holster for a .380, . . . wore it to a funeral, . . . came home and threw away the tee shirt it bled all over. It was their black dye from 5 or 6 years ago. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members JoyceLee Posted April 11, 2014 Members Report Posted April 11, 2014 Thanks Dwight! What would you use to seal it? The reason I am so hopeful that I can use the Pro Oil Dye is that I have 2 bottles of each color and would hate to chuck it all and buy a new brand... Someone suggested I just not dye the backs of my projects... I never thought of that... I appreciate the help.. J. Quote
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