New guy and first holster

[Shorts]

Good point okie, but he put in the proper caveat - "It's for a polish pistol!" . . . LOL!

[dickf]

So, I made some modifications to my design on this one, and came up with this. I think I will extend the sweat guard slightly higher, and will give attention to the throat re-enforcement to make sure it's more even all the way across.

[ArtS]

Excellent first holster. We learn something on every item that we make.

Art

[Billsotx]

So, I made some modifications to my design on this one, and came up with this. I think I will extend the sweat guard slightly higher, and will give attention to the throat re-enforcement to make sure it's more even all the way across.

Looking good. From a practical standpoint, an IWB doesn't need that much molding around the trigger, trigger guard area as the belt provides most of your retention properties. Looking at that area on your third photo indicates you're molding too wet. After you case wait until the surface starts to return to the dry color before you start molding and boning. It's a little harder to see with dyed leather, so take a mental photo of it before you case it. If you're pushing water when you start to mold, stop and wait a while longer.

Good idea on extending the sweat guard. That seems to be the in thing now days. You might consider flaring the top band out (looks like you did that on front) and overlaying the sweat guard with it and moving the front belt loop back a bit more. (We see folks in class that have the sweat guard folding over which impedes holstering with one hand and not looking down at the holster because the thing is closing up.) Your edges look good but you can smooth them up just a smidge more - hand sanding is one way, or you can do it with a machine - dremel, drill, etc. If you use power use a light hand so you don't burn the surface; dampen very lightly when you do this.

You're catching on fast. Looking forward to seeing the next one.

[dickf]

Looking good. From a practical standpoint, an IWB doesn't need that much molding around the trigger, trigger guard area as the belt provides most of your retention properties. Looking at that area on your third photo indicates you're molding too wet. After you case wait until the surface starts to return to the dry color before you start molding and boning. It's a little harder to see with dyed leather, so take a mental photo of it before you case it. If you're pushing water when you start to mold, stop and wait a while longer.

Good idea on extending the sweat guard. That seems to be the in thing now days. You might consider flaring the top band out (looks like you did that on front) and overlaying the sweat guard with it and moving the front belt loop back a bit more. (We see folks in class that have the sweat guard folding over which impedes holstering with one hand and not looking down at the holster because the thing is closing up.) Your edges look good but you can smooth them up just a smidge more - hand sanding is one way, or you can do it with a machine - dremel, drill, etc. If you use power use a light hand so you don't burn the surface; dampen very lightly when you do this.

You're catching on fast. Looking forward to seeing the next one.

Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate all the input I can get!

The pistol is basically a PPK clone, and thus isn't very big. This is why it's sort of necessary to mold the trigger guard stronger, as less than half of the gun (remember - it's small frame) is under the pants. The guard offers most of the retention. The inside trigger guard looks sloppy because I did it sloppy - I used the back of a marker, and your seeing where I didn't smooth it out (this is just a prototype) afterward. Again, because this is a prototype, is the reason I didn't take the edge burnishing all the way. With the front belt loop so far forward, it makes the grip of the pistol tuck in, which is superb for carry. The small size is also why I left some excess material at the muzzle.

I tell ya, I think I'm addicted!

Edited October 13, 2008 by dickf

[okie44]

Good start on the holster. As far as the loop position, A J Concealco uses a very similar position on theirs, for pretty much the same reasons you stated. Good work, keep at it.