Copper Rivet Making Jigs

[stelmackr]

http://www.hpaulin.com/Catalogue/400.pdf page 62

Is this a place to get the copper washers? I don't have a #9 rivet washer to measure to get a quote.

Bob Stelmack

Edited February 6, 2015 by stelmackr

[glockanator]

I have been told that harbor freight sells copper washers but I can not confirm this.

[bullmoosepaddles]

The burrs can be found here.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1917

Go well

Gene

[mlapaglia]

does this jig taper the rivet so a standard burr fits? 6 gauge wire is a #9 rivet but the burr is undersized 0.016 for a captive fit. It needs the tapered tip on the rivet to start the burr.

This is my understanding anyway.

I'd like to buy one if I can use normal burrs.

Michael

[shtoink]

does this jig taper the rivet so a standard burr fits? 6 gauge wire is a #9 rivet but the burr is undersized 0.016 for a captive fit. It needs the tapered tip on the rivet to start the burr.

Judging by the pictures provided here and on the website, those are not tapered holes. There looks to be a normal 60 degree cone shape at the bottom of the holes from a standard drill bit.

I did a bit of number crunching to aid in looking up the details for what it would take to get a tapered fit to the bottom of the holes. It looks to be that they rivet manufacturers will typically use a set amount of taper that is the same angle from center across the different sizes. The only change looks to be the main diameter and dimensions associated with the head, so multiple modified versions of one size reamer could be used make the taper at the bottom of the holes.

This is good news and means that only one tapered reamer would be needed for the holes. Each hole would probably need a separate modified reamer to fit the bottom of the hole.

The bad news is that now, there needs to be extra steps to make the holes and would, almost certainly, require more lead time to make and an increase in cost due to increased manufacturing complexity. Each hole will require a fair amount of planning and multiple steps to get an approximately correct taper in the bottom. I estimate a minimum of three separate passes for each hole. One for the minimum taper diameter, one for the shaft diameter, and one for the taper reaming. There may be some overlap in the tooling that will be required if it's kept to the same #9 rivet as the only change would be the desired rivet length, but I didn't do any high/low tooling cost estimates. If they were trying to make one jig for multiple rivet sizes, the tooling required just got a lot more expensive.

For those curious, a #0 Tapered Pin Reamer is what would be needed. It would need a portion to be cut off near the bottom to make it fit the job of tapering the hole at the bottom. A #1 might do the job, but this would all require a fair amount of testing before going forward with any kind of production model. At least the halves of the jig can be separated to inspect the surface finish and proper fit of the modified tooling.

Well, it looks like a geeked out a bit hard on that one. Sorry that it ended up being a much longer response to a simple question. I got a bit carried away with crunching numbers, looking at data sheets, and then attempting to make an estimate of the tooling and steps it would require to do all that. I could go even further into detail to lay out the train of thought and such, but I highly doubt that many people would find it interesting and it, more than likely, would just induce comas and copious mashing of the back button.

$50 for this jig, that looks very well made, feels like a great deal. If they made one that created tapered rivets, the time needed to for the extra steps might not be worth it if they wanted to stay in the same price range.

[mlapaglia]

Judging by the pictures provided here and on the website, those are not tapered holes. There looks to be a normal 60 degree cone shape at the bottom of the holes from a standard drill bit.

I did a bit of number crunching to aid in looking up the details for what it would take to get a tapered fit to the bottom of the holes. It looks to be that they rivet manufacturers will typically use a set amount of taper that is the same angle from center across the different sizes. The only change looks to be the main diameter and dimensions associated with the head, so multiple modified versions of one size reamer could be used make the taper at the bottom of the holes.

This is good news and means that only one tapered reamer would be needed for the holes. Each hole would probably need a separate modified reamer to fit the bottom of the hole.

The bad news is that now, there needs to be extra steps to make the holes and would, almost certainly, require more lead time to make and an increase in cost due to increased manufacturing complexity. Each hole will require a fair amount of planning and multiple steps to get an approximately correct taper in the bottom. I estimate a minimum of three separate passes for each hole. One for the minimum taper diameter, one for the shaft diameter, and one for the taper reaming. There may be some overlap in the tooling that will be required if it's kept to the same #9 rivet as the only change would be the desired rivet length, but I didn't do any high/low tooling cost estimates. If they were trying to make one jig for multiple rivet sizes, the tooling required just got a lot more expensive.

For those curious, a #0 Tapered Pin Reamer is what would be needed. It would need a portion to be cut off near the bottom to make it fit the job of tapering the hole at the bottom. A #1 might do the job, but this would all require a fair amount of testing before going forward with any kind of production model. At least the halves of the jig can be separated to inspect the surface finish and proper fit of the modified tooling.

Well, it looks like a geeked out a bit hard on that one. Sorry that it ended up being a much longer response to a simple question. I got a bit carried away with crunching numbers, looking at data sheets, and then attempting to make an estimate of the tooling and steps it would require to do all that. I could go even further into detail to lay out the train of thought and such, but I highly doubt that many people would find it interesting and it, more than likely, would just induce comas and copious mashing of the back button.

$50 for this jig, that looks very well made, feels like a great deal. If they made one that created tapered rivets, the time needed to for the extra steps might not be worth it if they wanted to stay in the same price range.

In other words, No.

Thanks