Adler 205-64

[cdthayer]

Treadle operation would be better than handcrank. Electric would be better yet. If I ever come up with a treadle for it, that would be great. I have power stands and motors that I could cobble together for a home-built electric one. So far, I haven’t done anything to this head that can’t be undone to convert to either treadle or electric later. The problem with either stand will be floor space to put it. Mounting it on an existing toolbox made it possible to have it in my crowded space. And since it will no doubt see little use, I can’t justify the cost or the need of a more convenient power system.

Yes, that’s 1.5” wide webbing, and it appears to be military surplus. I just have the one roll of it (maybe 12” diameter) that I bought at a garage sale a year ago. It was in at least two pieces on the roll. I cut my sample at a splice made with metal staples. I haven’t unrolled the rest of it to see what it looks like. I don’t have access to any other supply of it.

Thanks to everyone for helping get this old beast up and running. Although it’s not complete yet, it’s to where I can use it.

CD in Oklahoma

[Constabulary]

Hey CD - any chance that you are interested in a machine mounted bobbin winder for you 205? I remember I still have one from a Singer 45K. It has a rubber wheel that runs on the hand wheel. I don´t want money but maybe we can talk about your 1.5" wide webbing roll. I know shipping will not be cheap but maybe we can figure out a deal. I will post a picture tomorrow.

It looks like this one - I think it could work with your 205...

[cdthayer]

I appreciate the offer, but I’m good on bobbin winders. I can wind bobbins on my handcrank winder, and I have the original surface-mount bobbin winder as well. I’m in the process of getting it limbered back up now.

CD in Oklahoma

[Constabulary]

I just thought because of the hand crank as there is no belt but no problem at all, it was just an idea

[cdthayer]

You’re correct, there will be no belt, but the surface-mount BW can be converted to a mini handcrank winder by drilling one hole in the fiber wheel and mounting a rotating knob like Jim Morse is doing over on YouTube (Search: Morse Industrial Hand Crank Sewing Machine). It may look dinky and flakey to some, but it gets a bobbin wound without electricity.

I know you want the military webbing, and I can appreciate that with what you do, but I’m going to hang onto the little bit that I have. I have WWII parachute guys in my town, so the vintage WWII stuff is popular here too.

BTW: What is your first name please? And may I call you by your first name instead of “Constabulary”?

CD in Oklahoma

[cdthayer]

I’ve been tinkering with the upper tension and pre-tension assemblies today. Using 4 layers of woven upholstery fabric, my knot was just barely showing on the bottom. (I ripped all of the stitches out of the 1.5” belting that I used for photos earlier. That army green belting showed the stitches a lot better than the multi-colored woven fabric that I’m making stitch after stitch into now.)

Back during clean-up, I took both of the upper tensions completely apart and cleaned the rust and debris out of them. The bobbin tension canister looked clean enough that I didn’t take it apart. So now I’m bringing the top tension up to match the bottom tension.

Is there any rule-of-thumb for coordinating the tension and pre-tension assemblies on the Adler 205-64? I’m not sure that I understand all I know about pre-tensioners, which is very little.

And another question, what feet designed for other machines will fit the 205-64? I want to try grinding one down for closer work.

CD in Oklahoma

Edited August 2, 2014 by cdthayer

[cdthayer]

This afternoon I fiddled with my Adler 205-64 Handcrank. A friend of mine broke his big tow strap close to one end, so I sewed a new eye into the end to rebuild it. It’s the first real “project” with the Adler, and I’m pleased with how it sews. I really do need to get to work on rigging up a foot-operated presser foot lift though. I found a peddle for it, but need to locate a piece of pipe to run across under the toolbox to mount it on. It’s something that’s really needed to operate the machine for any length of time. The eye splice took quite a bit of sewing, and my arm was starting to feel the strain by the time I was finished. One full revolution per stitch makes for a lot of cranking, but the steering wheel spinner knob works just fine. I think it will be just fine for these kinds of repairs, but wouldn’t be adequate for any type of production with the machine.

CD in Oklahoma

[cdthayer]

I got a foot presser bar lift rigged up on my Adler 205-64 that I have mounted on a 3-drawer, 1-compartment Popular Mechanics toolbox that I happened to have had available. I think the foot lift is going to work fine, but I haven’t sewn anything with it yet. I sewed some on a dog leash the other day, and sure wished then that I’d have gotten a foot lift on it sooner. The only lift that I had was by hand on the foot lift actuator lever. I haven’t replaced the hand lift lever parts that are damaged yet, and I have to release the tension manually each time. I power the machine by hand from a seated position using a steering wheel spinner knob on the balance wheel.

I drilled a hole with a step drill bit in each side of the cabinet, as close to the bottom of the lowest compartment as I could get. Then I put 1/2” black rigid pipe across through the holes, added an old Singer foot plate that I had, a shim on either side of the plate, and put hose clamps on both ends of the pipe to keep it from walking out one end or the other. I used 1/8” plastic-coated cable and cable clamps to attach the peddle to the foot lift actuator arm. The cable doesn’t rub the edge of the cabinet very hard, and it’s rubbing on wood, so if I get a groove worn I’ll put some kind of metal shim under the cable to protect it.

The whole set-up looks Redneck, but it’s just perfect for a small repair shop like mine. Cost of the new parts was about $15.

CD in Oklahoma

Edited October 9, 2014 by cdthayer

[silverbullet]

I would bet you could mount a servo motor on the side of the tool box by the hand wheel , most are reverse able now. Or hang it just off the back of the box . Come on use you abilities the ingenuity of the rest shows up. Think up a way , where's ther a will there's a way . The servos can be had for under $150. On ebay delivered. Gary

[VanRhodes]

You could easily fit one of the JK-type servo motors on that stand, behind the machine head and have it power the macine. The 1hp version is real small and neat.