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xlr8tn

Sew Zipper On Case

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To do what you are talking about, you need to figure the length of zipper tape you need, add 1.5-2 inches evenly split on both ends. Remove the teeth that aren't needed. Meaning, if you need 10" of zipper, there should be 11.5-12" of tape with 10" of teeth in the middle of it.

With the tape separated, sew each half on to each of the gussets. Depending on the shape of the case, you might want to install the slides and stops now, or it might be easier to sew your gussets onto the case first, you'll need to figure that out for the case you're making. To be blunt, sewing the gussets on is the hardest part of making that type of case.

But a separating zipper is just a regular zipper with 2 slides started from each end going towards the middle, then you install the stops to keep the sliders from coming off. To hold the zipper tape to the leather for sewing, you can rubber cement it, staple it, or use double stick tape. I use the tape as it's a lot quicker and cleaner.

Hope this makes sense.

Chuck

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That zipper is stitched to vegetable tanned leather "gussets", which are then attached to the case. Not sure the reason for "multi-directional" on a case this small. I think the 'norm' with this type of case is a zippper running the length with a hole in the pull large enough to fit a lock, and a "dee" or sqare ring on the end that the lock attaches to when it's closed.

As for the actual constructing of the gussets, absolutely check out Stohlmans book on leather cases. The cases shown are largely outdated now, but the principles are still used. The style you are looking for are clearly outlined in the book cover, notebook, and briefcase (variations at each).

Purchase at store or download here.

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Just finished up my gussets and trimmed edges to provide the proper gap on my case. I removed about an inch of teeth on my zipper on each end and installed metal clamp to prevent zipper from undoing. Can someone explain how to me how to sew each end to my case? I was planning to go about an inch on each side along the spline so I can open my case an lay flat.

-Brent

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Edited by xlr8tn

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The gusset needs about 2" extra length on both ends (4" total). Mark the gusset at the mid point on each side. Unzip it. Mark the mid point on each side of the case. Use seem tape or contact cement and start attaching the gusset at the mid point on each side of the case. Work towards both ends. If your case is going to be 1.5" thick at the spine, keep that space clear on the case material, and bring your gusset/zipper down inside the case. Don't sew or glue the piece that goes down inside the spine. All glued in place, punch and lace, or sew it together. Don't sew the gusset piece in the spine.

Tom

edit ... thicker cases require longer gusset/zipper to be able to open flat.

Edited by northmount

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Here is what I came up with. Thanks for all the help. Last thing I am going to add is a d-ring so I can lock the bag and glue in the sherpa material.

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Looks good!

Chuck

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