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Beveling Small Details

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Hi guys!

I have a question, quite stupid I think, but I am a noob so please be patient =)

I have some troubles when I have to bevel small details on my carvings. I have a Craftool B197 beveler, which is good for general usage, but not very comfortable for small details, and I di many works with small details.

So the question is: are there smaller bevelers to do that? Any particular technique?? Or do I need more practice??

Thanks a lot!!

Daniele

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Daniel;

There are smaller bevelers than the 197.

Barry King puts a steeper angle on his bevelers which is better than the Tandy tools for small impressions.

If the impressions are real small a stamp may suffice.

When you can't buy what you want then you can always have it made.

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Yes on all points.

You'll want a "Sheridan" style beveler. Most aren't labeled as such. They're just steeper angles. All of Barry King's bevelers are Sheridan style, as well as many of the other makers that aren't associated with Tandy. The "Sheridan" tools are designed to work in those tight places that you find in that type of work. I use Barry King's smooth bevelers. Also, a modeling tool is a beveler as well and can/should be used for those tight spots. Most importantly, practice :)

Edited by Cyberthrasher

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thanks for the answers..!

I got my beveler with a basic kit including the swivel knife and some tools...it worked good for the first time, but now I need something better. :) can you tell me where ti find such tools?

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http://barrykingtools.com/page5.htm

I'd contact Barry and tell him exactly what you need.

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It depends on what you call "small" and "detail". I bought that B197 a LONG time ago, still use it. There's always some monkey wanting to talk you into buying some more stuff around the leather shop. YOU decide if you need it, or it's just someone repeating something they heard from someone who heard from someone ....

If you want to spend more money, get the best grade of leather available. learn the proper moisture content, and have fun. These were done with those "cheap" craftools (including the 197) with chubby little fingers ... (oh, yeah, the anchor picture actual size is 6" circle, chain links are about 1/4" long x 1/8" wide).

Edited by JLSleather

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Oh, and all these belts made with the same useless 'junk' (some by me, some by that chubby girl). Crap - I should just throw those old tools away, maybe ... (I admit it seems a bit rediklus to use a compressed file to talk about detail :) )

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Are those stars stamped or carved?

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It depends on what you call "small" and "detail". I bought that B197 a LONG time ago, still use it. There's always some monkey wanting to talk you into buying some more stuff around the leather shop. YOU decide if you need it, or it's just someone repeating something they heard from someone who heard from someone ....

If you want to spend more money, get the best grade of leather available. learn the proper moisture content, and have fun. These were done with those "cheap" craftools (including the 197) with chubby little fingers ... (oh, yeah, the anchor picture actual size is 6" circle, chain links are about 1/4" long x 1/8" wide).

You are right. Many of the old Craft tools were decent quality. It is the new ones that are a mess.

Your work looks good. I would love to see something you did with the crispness of high end tools. I think you likely would be one of the masters.

Aaron

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Thanks, Aaron .. and those stars are stamped (yep, cheap crap, Tandy Z-something)

Oh, and jus fer fun, here's the rest of that design. I think these are hard. NO part of the design is original, except the size and shape of the binder. With an original design, you can do whatever shape you think of, and you can make it any color you want to. With this, and a few others, some Coast Guard boys went nuts needing these for some kind of rank thing. The design had to adhere to the original and the colors had to be at least quite close. The anchor design is standard USCG 'stuff', and the grey (which was a bit difficult to match) is some kind of job classification (hydraulic guy, I think).

So, the emblem and classification courtesy of the USCG boys, the banner mine, and the color belongs to a little chubby girl. Still, I kinda liked it.

Edited by JLSleather

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The work is good but it's overshadowed by your rudeness.

I've used craftool and Barry Kings tools and there is a difference between the two, I have both so I'll keep buying professional tools for repetitive work and still use some craftools occasionally.

As for the original question, if he's not happy with the results from the tools he's using regardless what they are he can always upgrade and make his own decision on what works best for him.

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...YOU decide if you need it, or it's just someone repeating something they heard from someone who heard from someone ...

Pretty sure that's what I said.

AND, Aaron's correct -- the craftools currently for sale 'over-the-counter' are not the same ones available years back.

AND, you're correct -- I sometimes say things my own way. You don't really need to spend all that energy suckin' up if people know the leather will be done right. I leave the long-winded facebook/tweetybird/pinholer stuff to people who talk better than they carve.

Edited by JLSleather

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Wow, way to keep being arrogant. The OP ASKED if there was a better tool for the job and he was answered.

anyway - the Sheridan bevelers have steeper pitch and therefore allow you to MORE EASILY get into tight spaces without effecting the adjacent work.

You can use any tool you want, but the right tool for the job will yield the same results with greater ease and pleasure - allowing you to spend your time in other places.

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Actually, I've seen yours. I think I'll just stop there.

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I view it like this. Mozart could likely have made great music from an out of tune piano. A average quality pianist could make good music out of a high end concert piano. But the high end piano will always be easier for the musician to play better music. And in the hands of a master, the high end will always be superior.

Many people never realize how much better their work would be if they used good tools since they have nothing to compare too. I have had people demonstrate to me that they did awsome work with Craft tools. I then pulled out a high end tool and showed them how much better their work would look. In general, if the person in into quality, they quickly decide they like the cleaner, crisper look better. I have had a couple tell me that the clairity/clispness is not of concern to them.

And the new Craft tools are BAD. The ones in the beginner kits are horendous. They are mis-shaped and leave muted impressions. The newer pro series tools are much better, and they are on sale for $15 each after Christmas. And yes, I am a tool guy. I have a lot of very nice tools :)

Aaron

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Many people never realize how much better their work would be if they used good tools since they have nothing to compare too.

Aaron

Agreed. And tha's true of leathercraft in general, I think. So much crap out there, the new guy might actually think it's SUPPOSED to look like that.

I think i met that guy, doesn't care to improve anything. After all, somebody bought some of his stuff - maybe even more than twice - so why make it better? :)

I figure - each his own. Only irritates me occasionally when I see someone who doesn't know a "G" chord from a "C", trying to teach music (just to borrow your analogy for a minute).

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Actually, I've seen yours. I think I'll just stop there.

Why don't you put some ice on those internet balls before they swell up any bigger. Want my address?

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This isn't that great if you tried to carve it.

post-19342-0-40565500-1387932477_thumb.j

I apologize if your kids did it.

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Ok this really has become a pissing contest.

In reply to the original post, I agree that tools are very important. However, a true Master of any craft can produce astounding works of art using just crayons. I personally did invest in some barry king tools, and while I love my mallet and swivel knife I do find myself going back to my vintage Craftools time and time again. The key word here is VINTAGE. You can get them for about the same price as new ones all the time on ebay and it's well worth it IMHO.

The biggest key I found in improving my own technique was perfecting the casing process. You could spend thousands of dollars on tools, and if the cow isn't ready to receive your blows, it won't make a lick of difference.

Here is an example of an artist doing what she does with the tools she has been given. She is Deakath on deviantart, she is French and I have talked to her about her processes. In most cases she uses small screwdrivers, modeling tools etc to get the look she is going for. Now this might not be your cup of tea for all you traditionalists out there, but she inspires me with every new post.

post-17044-0-81372500-1387939814_thumb.j

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