Laminated Holster

[Red Cent]

A minute ago, a friend called about his laminated holster. He wanted to widen the holster inside by putting a welt up the back. Says his pistol stops at about 1" before it is all the way in the holster. No matter that problem.

What does Safariland use in their laminated holsters? Is it kydex or a softer material? Anyone sewed through the stuff?

[supercub]

The old Safariland holsters that I'm familiar with used a softer plastic than kydex. Many of them used a plastic front welt that also doubled as a molded sight track. it seemed to work okay, but the plastic would degrade over time (about the time the rest of the holster needed replacement). I would think that a welt made from several layers of leather would be easier to work with than a built up welt of kydex, especially if you're using an awl or stitcher to punch the holes. If you're using a drill press, then it really wouldn't matter.

[Dwight]

You didn't say what kind of holster and/or pistol, . . . but I'd be taking some "stretching" tools to that holster long before I would take it apart and try adding a welt.

It is really a tough process to add a welt after one is finished, . . . and make the final finished product look as good as the oiginal.

John Bianchi took a regular claw hammer handle, . . . polished that dude up real nice, . . . and he uses it in his video to open up the inside of holsters for SAA and clones.

I use the exact same type tool, . . . found it in a yard sale for probably $.50, . . . it has a special "Don't touch this" space in my tool drawer.

Besides that, . . . it is real easy to put too much of a welt in that holster, . . . then it looks like something made by the local prison on craft and show day.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Red Cent]

Whoa Dwight. I ain't that bad of a fixer. I don't recall if he told me what handgun he used. I have an old Safariland that has a welt/sight channel in front and a welt in back. Rubber type stuff. With holes in the rubber it is impossible to sew. New without holes, the C4 would do it.

Edited January 3, 2014 by Red Cent

[Dwight]

Not picking on you Red Cent, . . . just making an observation. When you said laminated, . . . I'm thinking the "Katsass" process, . . . one I use occasionally, . . . cementing two thin pieces flesh to flesh, . . . then treating it as one thicker piece of leather to make holsters.

It is an absolute pain to take one of them apart and put it back straight, . . . and that was what I had in my mind you were referencing.

Anyway, . . . good luck.

May God bless,

Dwight

[dirtclod]

If i was going to put that welt in i would measure the stitches on the holster and sew some scrap till i got the the right length. Then i would cut my welt long and mark a few different places with a awl using the stitch holes already in the holster and punch holes in the welt and line everthing up with some needles using the holes i punched with awl, after i glued it sew the welt in i don't think it will look bad at all.

[supercub]

If i was going to put that welt in i would measure the stitches on the holster and sew some scrap till i got the the right length. Then i would cut my welt long and mark a few different places with a awl using the stitch holes already in the holster and punch holes in the welt and line everthing up with some needles using the holes i punched with awl, after i glued it sew the welt in i don't think it will look bad at all.

Pretty much the same way I've done it when repairing the stitching on old trunk leather gun cases. Glue in the new welt and use the existing stitch holes as a guide for punching new holes. Use a VERY sharp awl and index the punched holes with a bunch of needles. The process is similar to aligning aluminum panels with Cleco fasteners prior to riveting. If you're careful with the awl, you can do a good job of duplicating the original stitch line.