Need Help Determining Max. Width Of Diamond Awl Blade.

[ToddB 68]

Greetings !

I will be hand sewing a tool sheath of my own design, using the two-needle method described in Al Stohlman’s book The ART of HAND SEWING Leather. My sheath design is simple, a rectangular-shaped Front and a Back shaped to include a belt loop and a strap w/Snap that goes across the tool handle, acting as a retainer. In other words the Back as described, is all one solid piece. I have the Front and Back cut out from a piece of 12 oz. (.188" thick) veg-tanned cow hide and since I will be wet forming the Front over a wood mold to create a cavity for the tool, I made the Front wider than the Back to allow for this.

I’ve decided on 5 cord Waxed Poly thread and using a 6 spi spacer wheel tool. The diameter of this thread is 3/64" (.047") as measured with a six-inch SS Pocket Scale and the #2 needles I have on order are 1.02mm (.0402") dia.. The needle eye is the same size (Not bulbous.). However, after attaching the thread to the needle as shown in The ART of HAND SEWING Leather, that will enlarge the dia. at the needle-eye end, which could increase resistance when pulling the needle through a stabbed hole, unless the major width of the awl makes a large enough hole.

Since I’m using .188" thick cowhide and stabbing the awl through two thicknesses of this leather (Total thickness being approx. 3/8"), I'm guessing I should order a diamond awl blade a little larger at it's major width than the needle dia. + ( 2 x the thread dia.), to make it easier to pull the needle and thread through the stabbed holes.

I have an old Awl haft (with 4-jaw chuck) that I found in some of my father’s small tools after he passed away. I believe he used it for small chain saw files since he wasn’t "into" leatherwork as a hobby. So I just need/want a diamond-shaped awl blade and will appreciate your help in determining the best major width of this blade.

Based on the details above, I have a theoretical size of .134" as a starting place (.040" + .047" +.047") but lacking experience, I need advice from other leatherworking members here before ordering an awl blade.

For reference, I've listed below the diamond-shaped awl blades where I plan to buy. Which one would you recommend ?

38mm length, 2.5mm width (1.496 x .0984 inches)

43mm length, 3mm width (1.693 x .118 inches)

56mm length, 3.5mm width (2.205 x .138 inches)

75mm length, 5mm width (2.953 x .197 inches)

100mm length, 6.5mm width (3.937 x .256 inches)

Thanks for any help you can give !

ToddB68

[TXAG]

However, after attaching the thread to the needle as shown in The ART of HAND SEWING Leather, that will enlarge the dia. at the needle-eye end, which could increase resistance when pulling the needle through a stabbed hole, unless the major width of the awl makes a large enough hole.

I've read in a different book that you're supposed to taper the ends of the thread so that won't happen (double width of thread at the needle).

[ToddB 68]

Hi TXAG !

See attached picture.........this is what I was going by. However, perhaps the artist had to over-emphasize the thread thickness for clarity. There are more views leading up to this one in Al Stohlman's book, but with copyright laws, I gambled using this one for my post without permission. Al's book also shows/explains tapering the end of the thread, not so much by cutting on an angle, but by scraping and pulling the fibers apart to fine, pointed ends, waxing and smoothing to a fine point.

After threading the needle eye, you are instructed to pierce the needle point through the thread at a point farther down where the thread is normal thickness and subsequently pulling the thread over the needle eye to lock it. (Note: I have not mentioned all of the intermediate steps here for brevity.).

Since I will be using 5-cord thread (on the thick side for leaherworking thread), I just figured it will create a bulbous condition at the needle-eye end, necessitating a tapered diamond awl blade with a max. width (toward the haft end.) capable of producing a large enough hole for easy needle pull-through.

The awl blade is tapered smaller toward the point, therefore, I could always stack a small leather washer or two onto the blade, and slide it up against the haft ferrule to act as a depth-stop at a point on the blade where it would cut a smaller hole if need be. Eureka.......a great idea I read somewhere.

With all of the above information in mind, it would seem I could decide on the max. width of a diamond awl blade all by myself, but lacking experience (which is the best teacher !) I am smart enough to know how dumb I could be about some things. (Wink).

So, I'll wait for more replies.

Thanks TXAG !

ToddB68

Edited January 2, 2014 by ToddB68

[electrathon]

You are way overthinking things. I hand sew all the time and could never even give a guess to the sizes and measurements of it all. If the needle can be pulled through the hole, all is well. I personally feel that if you can easily get the needle through, your hole is too big. I use pliers all the time. I never tie a knot in the thread at the needle. Just double back the thread about 8" and go. Be a little carefull when you pull it through to not tug the needle off the thread. Not a hassle at all compared to dealing with a knot on the needle. Also, if you need to undo a stitch or two just pull the needle off and unsew.

[camano ridge]

Like electrathon says, you are putting to much overthinking and scientific process into it, use SWAG it's easier and works just as well. I use the smallest awl blade I can find. THe hole should be snug when you pull the thread through. Like Electrathon I use pliers all the time. When I am done sewing I have fairly small holes that have somewhat healed them selves around the thread. You will hate yourself if you tie a knot in your thread.

[Matt S]

You'll need to practice a little first anyway, a great opportunity to make some samples with different sizes and techniques.

[Tex Shooter]

I use a 1/8 inch wide diamond awl most of the time with Springfield Leather waxed poly with Osborne #0 needles. On some of the thinner leather I can pull the needle through with my fingers, but it is hard (tip finger cots give you more pulling strength). I use a pair of pliers that I modified to pull most of the time. Nyltex is harder to pull and I always have to use pliers to pull it. Linen varys. Springfield poly is a little heavier than other threads that I have used, but I like the heavier thread for hand sewing. I sell a bunch of items to Working Cowboys who like the look of hand sewed items. I recently went shopping with my daughter in a tourist type uptown and noticed that some of the best selling leather goods were very crudely hand made. Like lots of rivets and 1/4 inch long single stitching. Go figger! -- Tex

Edited January 3, 2014 by Tex Shooter

[Cyberthrasher]

I have an awl blade - it's tapered

I have cheap tapestry needles

small hole, don't push awl through as deep. Bigger hole, push awl through deeper

As stated, you're seriously over-thinking the process.

Take a loot at some of Nigel's videos. He's got a pretty tiny awl blade, but look more at his process.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Nordicbadger/videos

[ToddB 68]

Hi Boys (& Girls, if any.),

Well, Several of you thought I was "overanalyzing" and I must admit you were right !

So, yesterday I went ahead and ordered two diamond-shaped awls ; 43mm Length x 3mm Width and 56mm x 3.5mm, along with a package of (25) #2 Harness Needles.

Thanks for the help with replies.

Wish you all success in the upcoming new year !

ToddB68

Edited January 4, 2014 by ToddB68

[Cyberthrasher]

Hi Boys (& Girls, if any.),

Well, Several of you thought I was "overanalyzing" and I must admit you were right !

So, yesterday I went ahead and ordered two diamond-shaped awls ; 43mm Length x 3mm Width and 56mm x 3.5mm, along with a package of (25) #2 Harness Needles.

Thanks for the help with replies.

Wish you all success in the upcoming new year !

ToddB68

We've all struggled with buying the right things and wanting to make sure we were ordering what we needed