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Posted

I need a simple leather skiver for taking skirting and latigo down to desired thicknesses...

I have come up with this idea and am wondering if someone with skiving experience can let me know if this will work or not - I have a friend who can machine it all for me - probably use aluminum instead of the mild steel I show in the drawings.

Ls1

Ls2

Please comment if you have a moment!

MT,

rdl

Posted

You will need to add cam adjusters to the roller. The adjustment on a splitter is very sensitive, I doubt that you can do it with a simple slot.

The blade will need to be sharp. If you do not start bleeding just from being near it it needs to be sharper. Do not cut a secondary angle on the blade except to set the burr.

Second thought, I don't know how you will get the leather to start into the splitter, usually pull through splitters have a lift feature.

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Posted

If you do not start bleeding just from being near it it needs to be sharper.

LOL :rofl:

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Posted (edited)

Bruce Johnson had a few 6" Osborne #86, might be worth just buying one instead of building one.

Or look at the tandy one or I think Cowboy has one, see ebay. Might give you ideas on how to cam the roller down so you can start thr split

Edited by J Hayes
  • Members
Posted

What about just putting the bolts off center? Maybe you wouldn't need the slot. If the bolts had wing nuts, you could loosen them then adjust by just moving the roller. It need not turn, I think. Just my a thought. Haven't actually tried it.

  • Members
Posted

Electrathon - The sensitivity of a skiver - Is this in regards to the roller being perfectly parallel to the blade (if you were looking at it from the top down), the cutting edge of the blade being perfectly centered over the roller, or the gap (cutting dimension) being perfectly true?

I have no experience with these things and don't want to put money into this if it won't work - I'd called Bruce Johnson the other day but he must have been away - Will try to get ahold of him again...

MT,

R

Posted

The gap between the roller and the blade is a very precice measurement. If it is off your split (it is a splitter, not a skiver) leather will be tapered. Like 9 oz on one side and 7 oz on the other side (that is with only 1/16" variance).

  • Moderator
Posted

RDL,

If you want to give me a call, I should be around most of tomorrow as of current plans. If you happen to miss me, leave a message and I'll call you back.

Thanks,

Bruce

  • Members
Posted

You could easily use 2 eye bolts to regulate the depth of cut with wing nuts and a locking nut . Then on the blade mount if you spring mount it down you could tilt the blade up then as you start to pull your cut the blade would go right down and stop with the spring pressure. Should work

  • Members
Posted

FYI - I can buy an Osborne from Bruce for about what it would cost to make this unit (By the time it is water jet cut and machined).

I talked to Bruce and will be buying a Osborne from him - Just need to save up a couple bucks first.

rdl

  • Members
Posted

What did he come back with? I am looking at a couple different Tippmann Boss units as the machine I sourced here is approx. 1000 years old and worked but broke some pulley in the back halfway through the demo. :)

Do you have a bunch of tools for sale, Bruce?

Aaron

  • Members
Posted

Modified Assoc:

I'd check out Bruce's website:

http://brucejohnsonleather.com/content/index.php/leather_tools_for_sale/

Lot of good stuff on there...

Osborne splitters run around $350+ (near as I can figure)

The quote I received for the leather splitter I designed was $350.00 out of aluminum...So not worth it...

Adios,

rdl

  • Members
Posted

Fair enough. Have to check that site out when I get the chance.

I sent him a message earlier about the Boss sewing machine cause they seem to be a compact hand operated unit that i could just mount to my desk kinda back in a corner and use right there. Cant decide yet but seems to me that i could pick one up for around 750 or so.

M A

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