pitchdev Report post Posted January 3, 2014 When I hand crank or use the motor, every 10-20 stitches, the machine makes a clunk and seems to come to an early stop on something very solid - I can then crank it back and forth a little and it frees up and sews fine for another ... indefinite period... then, chug chug chug -- clunk , rock it around with the hand wheel until it frees up and it will go again. My machine hasn't been oiled or cleaned up in quite some time (I just purchased it and am just getting it set up) ...so I'm hoping a little TLC will smooth it out, but I'm not that optimistic. Could somebody advise what's going on? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cascabel Report post Posted January 3, 2014 (edited) Almost sounds like something has fallen loose inside, and gets caught in the works sometimes. Could also be a foreign object like a coin dropped inside by "Little Johnny" jamming up the works. Next time it happens, tip the machine up where you can see the movements of the parts, and open any access covers to expose the moving parts before rocking the wheel back and forth. You may be able to see what is jamming it up, or something may fall out. Could be a loose screw has fallen out, and rides around until it jams against something. If it stitches normally otherwise, it is probably something simple. Edited January 3, 2014 by Cascabel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TXAG Report post Posted January 3, 2014 When my machine does that, it's usually while trying to sew very thick stuff...like several layers of 1000D Cordura...does the exact same thing you're talking about...I know it is supposed to be able to sew through that thickness, so I wish I knew what was causing it on mine too... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted January 3, 2014 (edited) My machine came to an abrupt halt yesterday, while I was sewing a holster. It turned out that the top thread got double wrapped around the shuttle for whatever reason. I had to cut the thread under the leather and clear the thread jam to continue sewing. It happens! On other machines I use, if I go over a very thick seam and the presser feet are set to maximum alternating lift, the outer foot can hit the presser bar inside the head and halt the machine on the spot. I had to modify the opening on the back of the head on my National walking foot machine to allow the cranks to move freely over thick seams, with a high lift ratio. The OP's problem may be a loose set screw, a thread jam, or even a high lift issue. It might even be from the needle mount hitting the presser foot on the downstroke. This is caused by sewing too much thickness for the height of the needle. Edited January 3, 2014 by Wizcrafts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TXAG Report post Posted January 3, 2014 Well...my machine was bought new by me and hasn't been heavily used...I guess I will try to find out about adjusting the lift to see if I can get it higher... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pitchdev Report post Posted January 3, 2014 I should add that I wasn't sewing anything, and no thread was on the machine. I was just running it dry. When it 'stopped hard' it made the whole machine shift on the table, sliding it back toward the hinges enough to loosen the belt -- making the belt slip. Now, I have removed the end plate and gone over the machine with Bob from Toledo, there is no slop, and there are no frozen bushings on the main arm mechanisms. It is oiled. There are no visible obstructions in the head, no big marks or gouges on the metal. At one point, the needle broke -- seemingly for no reason. Could the needle be hitting some part of the bobbin mechanism? Timing of that off? "the presser feet are set to maximum alternating lift" How do I adjust this setting? I appreciate the replies. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gottaknow Report post Posted January 4, 2014 The first thing I would check are the two cogs where the timing belt wraps between the top and bottom shafts. Tip your machine back and clamp a pair of vise grips on the bottom shaft. (I use a piece of leather to protect the shaft) Hold the vise grips firmly and grab your handwheel, rocking it back and forth. If you hear a clunk, check the set screws on both timing belt cogs. There shouldn't be much play (depending on the wear of the timing belt). From there, you'll need to do a full inspection along each shaft. I usually start with the bottom since it's easier to get to and it's the one folks before you are likely to have messed with. Have fun! Regards, Eric Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pitchdev Report post Posted January 8, 2014 Ok, I've learned some things since my last post. All the shafts seem OK with very little or no slop. I had a loose screw on the end cover plate - the first 3-4 threads are damaged on the cast body of the machine....then I learned that these things are no standard thread pitch! If the screw was just a little longer, I could still catch good threads, but as it is, it just spins. So, I've spent a few days looking for a screw that is 5mm longer that is the same crazy size/pitch that these things use. Any suggestions on sourcing a screw would be appreciated. Now I installed a new needle, (old)bobbin case/bobbin and begin to re-thread the machine. When hand cranking it to position, the needle contacts the bobbin case. I notice that the "notch finger" will not stay in the notch at the top of the shuttle race. After i put the finger back in the top slot, crank a few times, it walks itself backward and down -- until there is no hole for the needle to go through any more. It looks to me like the bobbin case itself might be worn -- picture attached. Is that center post "grabber" meant to be ramped? The center stud of the shuttle does have a decent amount of sloppiness to it....normal? Is this a common problem? How to fix? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cascabel Report post Posted January 8, 2014 If it's anything like a Singer, the screw threads are non-standard, also known as proprietary threads. You may have to go to the manufacturer or authorized dealer for a replacement screw, or you can get one made by somebody with a lathe. I have made several Singer screws in the past. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pitchdev Report post Posted January 8, 2014 Just spoke with Bob at Toledo Industrial - He is setting me up with a new bobbin//shuttle assembly and the screw I need. I previously purchased a servo motor and a few other parts from him (belt, knee lifter, needles, thread...etc) He has been an amazing help to me and I recommend his services most highly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
