Suggestions

[charlescrawford]

Bruce Johnson is out of Oakdale CA. here is his web site. I would recomend giving him a cal or email tell him what you are looking for. He is very knowlagble and helpful. http://brucejohnsonl...tools_for_sale/

Thanks Camano Ridge! Will do.

[Shooter McGavin]

I tried a round knife, went back to the exacto.

[supercub]

I tried a round knife, went back to the exacto.

Since I learned to sharpen the round knife, I haven't used any other type. If you get them sharp, they are so much easier to use than razor knives. Once I get a good edge, I strop it everytime I pick it up. Once a week or so, I'll run the edge against a cotton buffing wheel with grey polishing compound. I've used the inexpensive Midas knives and they work okay, but they are a little softer steel and need more frequent sharpening. The osborne knives are a little better steel and I still use them, but I've had a few custom made round and head knives from knifemaker friends who used ATS-34 steel - keeps an edge for a log time!

Use whatever works best for you. I just happen to like the old style cutters where the handle fits the hand.

[charlescrawford]

I will definitely look into the ATS-34! I tried the tried the 1k grit sand paper which helped a little bit. I go to church with a guy who is a metal artist I will see if he has access to this ATS-34 metal. Is it a type of carbon steel I wonder?

[supercub]

I will definitely look into the ATS-34! I tried the tried the 1k grit sand paper which helped a little bit. I go to church with a guy who is a metal artist I will see if he has access to this ATS-34 metal. Is it a type of carbon steel I wonder?

ATS-34 is a stainless alloy that is( or was) a popular material for custom knives. It has some heat treating requirements that cause most home knifemakers to farm out profiled blades to specialized heat treaters. It can be done in a small shop, but it is a little more demanding than regular carbon steel. My experience is that it will hold an edge for a long time IF you can get it sharp and keep it sharp - don't let it get too dull or it will take some effort to get it back to a good edge.

If I have a real dull blade, I usually set it up with a guide like the Lansky sharpening tool. It may take some time and effort to get an edge established, but it is necessary. Once you get the proper angle established, it can be touched up with a cardboard abrasive wheel or a fine grit belt sander at low speed. Most custom knife makers establish the grind line and final sharpen with a belt grinder. A small grinder in 1x30 or 1x42 works well and also serves as an excellent tool to shape the edges of leather projects. If I could have only one power tool for leather work it would be a small belt grinder - even before a sewing machine!

Edited January 21, 2014 by supercub

[charlescrawford]

Supercub - If you had to choose between carbon steel or ATS-34 which would you choose? See I come from a skating background. I figure skated competitively and then taught for 15 years before MS forced early retirement at 35. Skate blade makers switched from Sheffield steel to Carbon Steel a few years ago mainly 440 or higher. The benefit to skaters normal steel blades rust and you had to sharpen them every 30-40 hours of skating time for competitive skaters. Carbon steel didn't rust nearly as easy and skaters got 80-120 hours of skating time between sharpenings. So remembering that that's why I started wondering if it would be possible to make round knives from carbon steel 440 or higher but then can you strop it? You never strop skating blades....lmbo

[supercub]

I don't profess to be an expert in metals chemistry, but I believe that ATS-34 and 440c are both high carbon stainless alloys. I'm not a knifemaker, but I have made many sheaths for a bunch of custom knifemakers. I've learned a little bit from them about what makes a good knife. Both 440c and ATS-34 make excellent knives. Depending on tempering they can be hard to extremely hard ( Rockwell hardness of 60 as I recall for 440c). The harder the blade ( to a point) the longer it will hold an edge - but the harder it will be to sharpen.

Have you ever noticed how a butcher constantly touches up his blade on a steel? They are using extremely sharp carbon steel blades that are relatively soft. They trade off the harder to sharpen hard stainless blades for an easy to sharpen softer carbon steel blade. Now, they are cutting a relatively soft medium ( meat) but they do occaisionally hit a bone. My point is that regular carbon steel will do a good job, albeit with more attention needed to keep it sharp, but the harder stainless alloys will keep an edge longer, but will require more effort to resharpen a dull blade. I happen to like the stainless alloys (either 440c or ATS 34 are good) but there is nothing wrong with a regular carbon steel blade.

[charlescrawford]

Thanks for clarifying sounds like ATS-34 is the way to go then. Also found a guy on eBay that makes custom knives in case the guy from church falls through.

[charlescrawford]

Supercub - Any idea where D2 or J2 csteel falls in the scope of things? Hardness of of 52 - 56? This is greek to me. I asked about the ATS-34 and this is what I got back....

[supercub]

I don't know anything about J2, but D2 has been around for a while. It is a carbon steel that has a good bit of chromium, though is not classified as "stainless". It has been used in a lot of applications as tool steel and cutlery. I believe that at least one manufacturer used it to produce the "Ka-bar" knife. It can be a little tricky to heat treat in a small shop and has a reputation for being brittle if not tempered properly. The commercial makers have the tools and expertise to turn out a quality product - otherwise they couldn't stay in business.

As for Rockwell scale - my understanding is that the bigger the number, the harder the steel. Generally, the harder blades will hold an edge longer, but will be more difficult to sharpen. Depending on the steel, harder can also be more brittle. It may be more prone to chipping or breakage if droped or used as a prying tool.

When it comes to custom knives - use what the maker is comfortable with. He may make a beautiful knife, but if he is unfamiliar with the steel and heat treating, it could turn into an expensive paperweight. If he is experienced with d2, 440c, or ATS34 - any of them will be fine. If he hammers them out of old saw blades, or leaf springs, they might be fine - but maybe not.