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Posted

Hi there, I had finished this case of mine around the first week of January and I've been using it ever since to hold and protect my Microsoft Surface Pro tablet while I go to college.

Anyway, I ran into a couple problems partially due to my inexperience and my fondness for my "just winging it" strategy. I had a rough time trying to knot the ends of my stitching without it ending up loose. Is there a way, and I'm sure there is, to end the stitching so that the stitching is super tight?

Actually, that is the only problem I encountered.

The stitching was some waxed bankline that I typically stitch with because it's super strong and holds its knotting very well.

My leather was just a veg tanned shoulder piece that, if I remember correctly, was 6 mil leather? Maybe, it's some thick stuff.

I used white treated canvas for the flap and stained it brown to match the stain of the leather a bit.

I made the design stenciled it onto the piece and then burned the design in.

Oh, and I glued some very soft blue fabric on the inside to protect my tablet from scratching or rogue leather particles from it.

Lastly, I clear coated everything except the canvas to protect it a little.

I know that was a long post, but I appreciate your feedback.

-Chris Paton

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Posted

I pull the thread really tight at the end, then back stitch a couple holes. I make sure I pierce the thread with the needle on the way back to sort of 'lock' it in. I pull both threads through on the same side, whichever is the 'back' or least noticeable, cut them so that just a little is hanging and then I burn them. I use synthetic and it melts to a blob that I flatten down. Never had one back out from this treatment.

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Posted

I would use the baseball stitch with those large holes and for a liner, instead of the fabric you used, I use a thin leather and attach the two with contact cement gel, works really great. If you look at some of my work, you will see how I did it. I like the design. If you have a email address, I'll send you some photo's. Keep up the good work.

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Posted

Yes! Thanks for the replies and I would like to see what you mean by the thin leather. I avoided leather altogether for the inside because I didn't want anything to end up on my tablet but if it seems like it'll work I might use it for the next one I make for a friend (who'll pay me good money for it, haha.) who wants one for his tablet.

my fault, the email is chrispatton5@gmail.com. Thanks.

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Posted

I'll need a smaller punch then. I used the smallest one I have.

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Posted

What?! That's perfect, thanks for looking that up for me electrathon.

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Posted

I have that punch and only use it to make watch bands, because of how tiny I can make the holes.

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Posted

Will it also punch the tiny holes through the thick leather that I typically use? Thanks again fellaz.

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Posted
  On 2/21/2014 at 2:28 PM, Patton in SLC said:

Will it also punch the tiny holes through the thick leather that I typically use? Thanks again fellaz.

"Recommended for leather thickness of 1/2 oz. to 5 oz."

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