Decided/ing To Make My Own Awl

[oltoot]

Looks great! You will probably want to make another blade that is a little slimmer. So the hole it makes will be just big enough to pass your 2 threads. And you will probably find that a little longer on the taper will be easier to use. When you start making longer, slimmer, more tapered blades, try making them the same contour all the way to avoid weak spots from stress concentration at shoulders. Handle looks beautiful and I predict you will do some great work with it due to the fact that everytime you pick it up, you will be holding it exactly the same as when you last put it down. And hint: if you aren't quite happy with the angle of the holes, turn the blade in the chuck and don't try to twist your wrist to get it 'just right'

PS. When do you plan to start selling them?

[rawcustom]

Thanks for the compliment. This was my first attempt at an awl blade. I actually ordered one up that should be here tomorrow so I could get a better idea of what angles they are using. I tried my out on some scrap and found just as you noted that it is too wide for my needs, so I've already narrowed it up a bit. Also as you noted for strength I'm going to make my next with a tapered grind leading into the bevels to carry more strength out into the blade. This was more or less a practice run so my next attempt I'll focus more on improvements and notes from this effort. It's also great for the ergonomics as you stated since I can align the blade to the correct angle with my wrist in a neutral position, and unlike a round handle, you won't get it mixed around during use. I think it'll work well enough for now, and I have to switch back to knifemaking to get some fishing knives out for spring. I like the projects of making myself tools, but I can't tie up too much time on them since it takes away from my knives.

Once I get a system down for blades, I'll see what I have into them if they are worth offering for sale. As anything they take a bit of time right now, but with experience and establishing a method I may not have quite so much time invested. The handle isn't anything that new for me. I would make those for anyone interested, and price would have a lot to do with materials requested.

Thanks

[EvadCarpenter]

Nice job!

Edited March 10, 2014 by EvadCarpenter

[rktaylor]

Thanks for all the tips on this. Since my dad is retired with nothing to do (haha), I have him making me an awl handle. Where did you get your pin vise? I have searched, but I cannot find one that is not already assembled.

Randy

[rktaylor]

I think I found the one you used. I ordered one from musicwire.com.

Randy

[rawcustom]

I got mine off ebay, although there were plenty that would have worked. The 2 things I looked for was a chuck that would take up to .125" and a head with flats for a wrench.

[Greenbarn]

Really nice work! Please post picture of blades as you make them. I would be happy to buy some blades when you are happy with the design. I am wondering where you bought the pin vice?

[rktaylor]

I think I found the one you used. I ordered one from musicwire.com.

Randy

The correct site is www.musicmedic.com. I just checked and the maximum diameter is 0.1 inch. We'll see how it works.

Randy

[oltoot]

And what would be some of the materials available and their relative prices? I would think that just good, straight grained walnut would be fine. Wish I knew where you could get the chucks without having to buy the speedy stitcher but I don't recall ever seeing them.

[rawcustom]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SE-Pin-Vise-Double-Mouth-Reversible-Chucks-0-1-8-/181130722227?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2c3b7bb3

That is the pin vise I got, and then cut it in half. Handle wood can be anything. I have a few knife suppliers I use as well as some local sellers. Ebay has a lot of choices as well but you better know what you're looking at and what to expect. There are many woods that won't work unless properly stabilized and many on ebay are labeled 'stabilized' but aren't. Basically if you are buying stabilized scales or blocks for less than $25 you can bet they aren't truly stabilized. For this project, stabilized isn't required on all species. Walnut would be fine, as well as many other hardwoods, Maple, Hickory, Rosewood, Ipe, etc. A run of the mill, non-stabilized piece will be cheap, and boring to look at, but functional. This one I built from scraps in my inventory, but if purchased would've been likely about $20.

I would charge $60 to make one from non-stabilized wood, $90 from stabilized wood, and it could be much more if you want carbon fiber or mammoth ivory, or some other exotic.