Fleece

[FarNorth]

Fleece too thin should it be replaced?

[keplerts]

With todays saddle pads you could probably get away without replacing it. BUT, being leather work is what we do, I would re-fleece it

And since I have no sewing machine, it would be stitched by hand. Perfect for a relaxing sunday afternoon!

Tom

[FarNorth]

Tom what does something like this generally cost? I think it's a late 1960s, early seventies vintage if that matters.

[Dwight]

A shearling skin from Springfield leather will cost you $99 + P&H.

One pint of Weldwood contact cement will be about $8.

Simply dissassemble the saddle until you get the skirts off, . . . remove the old, . . . glue on the new, . . . sew the edges, . . . trim, . . . re-assemble, . . . ride on, cowboy, . . . ride on.

Like Tom said, . . . it can be done in an afternoon, . . . but if you don't start until Noon, . . .and you've never done anything like this before, . . . I wouldn't plan on watching much of anything on TV before the late night news.

May God bless,

Dwight

[FarNorth]

Wow sounds complicated – how do you remove the old fleece? I have never done this before.

[CWR]

When I do a reline, I replace the strings (if it has strings), and tugs. Also give it a good cleaning and oil. If it is 40 plus years old it will probably need some other things done to it. To remove the old fleece, I run a stitch groover over the top of the stitches til it weakens them enough to pull them out with the old woolskin(Thanks Bruce Johnson). I use rubber cement instead of contact cement for relines but a lot of guys use contact cement. If you are hand sewing after you have your threads prepared rub them with a piece of brown paper sack. This burnishes the wax into the thread and it won't pull the wool into your awl hole and lock the thread. I sewed a lot of them by hand before I could afford a machine. Plan on more time than a day if it is your first one.

Good luck,

CW

[FarNorth]

Think I need to start with something that looks easier! The join at the back of the saddle the stitching is loose also needs replaced what do I use order?

[oltoot]

I'm old enough and busy enough that I would tell somebody to spend the money on one of the great new pads that have become available, but if the owner insisted, I would tell him that I won't wrestle with dirty old gear and wash, oil, restring and generally recondition for $200

[FarNorth]

Appreciate the reply. I do have a good pad. It’s a second saddle want to keep it usable as long as I can and I do love old saddles. Leather is good some worn stitching here and there and the fleece is thin in spots is all.

[keplerts]

FarNorth,

I would charge $240 for a re-fleece with real sheep skin. If I used synthetic sheep skin it would be $170. To clean, oil, and put a

finish of bag kote on, it would be another $60. Plus it needs the rear lacing replaced and do the strings. Which would probably add

another $25. But as I said, if you use a good pad (not a blanket) you wouldn't need to re-fleece it. If it is a project you would like

to try doing yourself, I say go for it! It is really fun and a great way to see the construction of a saddle. There always seems to

be a mystery about working on and fixing saddles that people don't want to try it themselves.

Tom

[Saddlebag]

One of the main functions of fleece is to prevent the saddle pad from scooting out from beneath. Real fleece acts as a bit of a stiffener and provides a modicum of cushioning. During WW1, when sheep wool was so in demand, saddles were fleeced with various other hides with the hair on, some even with the blue felt. The fleece is showing how the tree wasn't a real good fit for the horse, a little narrow at the top of the bars. IMO you haven't shown us anything that really needs attention altho it is nice to have it looking 100%.

[WyomingSlick]

------ The fleece is showing how the tree wasn't a real good fit for the horse, a little narrow at the top of the bars. ---------

Another possibility for the fleece wear is that the saddle was stored on a stand/rack that was made out of rough wood and years of sliding the saddle on, and off the rack, contributed to the fleece wearing away. The saddle racks on my grandads ranch had wool stuffed pads made from feedsacks for this very reason.

Edited March 30, 2014 by WyomingSlick

[shanlaw1]

When hand stitching the fleece, how do you prevent the wool form getting bunched up under the stitch to obtain tighter stitching?

[oltoot]

2 things, trim or clip wool just to the point that you will want it when finished then plain ol water. Keep the wool soaked just around the edges as you sew and you will be able to easily part it with your fingers as you go. Masking tape is also helpful. The pad still gets my vote.

[Saddlebag]

I had did new skirts once, and once it has remained. My big old Pearson does a great job when it comes to refleecing skirts.