Help Timing A Pfaff 335

[Hanzo111]

Thanks for all the help! I got her running well now. I think my needle size is too small though. Can anyone recommend a size for thread just over 69 bonded?

Regards

[Northmount]

Thanks for all the help! I got her running well now. I think my needle size is too small though. Can anyone recommend a size for thread just over 69 bonded?

Regards

See this chart

Tom

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks for all the help! I got her running well now. I think my needle size is too small though. Can anyone recommend a size for thread just over 69 bonded?

Regards

If your thread is #69 bonded nylon, the usual needle sizes are either #16 (smaller holes), or #18 (bigger holes). If the needles are bending and getting deflected too easily, try a #19. All should have a leather point, either chisel, or diamond, or triangular shaped.

[johnnywalks]

Hi!!!! Need help with my Pfaff 335 please. I'm trying to set my timing with a 134-35 DH needle size NM90 size 14. The tip of my hook is touching my needle and pushing it outwards, this needle is quite small actually.  How do i move the hook (or needle) to give it a 0.05mm distance between both hook and needle? 

Edited November 15, 2017 by johnnywalks

[Uwe]

According to the Pfaff 335 Service Manual (I only have the German language version for the modern casting Pfaff 335), you loosen two screws marked 1 and the screw marked 2 (on the back side). Then you can rotate and shift the hook to the correct position to line up with your needle in the hook timing position (1.8mm rise after bottom dead center). Make sure cone gear (4) meshes nicely, then tighten screws again. 

  

Edited November 16, 2017 by Uwe

[johnnywalks]

16 hours ago, Uwe said:

Thank you Uwe, I have done the 1.8mm rise adjustment. It is the hook and needle touching that i need help with. I have the manual but i don't understand where 4 and 5 is...and by unscrewing the 1 and 2, i don't seem to be able to move the hook away from the needle so they don't clash. Please advise anyone? Thanks'

 

 

According to the Pfaff 335 Service Manual (I only have the German language version for the modern casting Pfaff 335), you loosen two screws marked 1 and the screw marked 2 (on the back side). Then you can rotate and shift the hook to the correct position to line up with your needle in the hook timing position (1.8mm rise after bottom dead center). Make sure cone gear (4) meshes nicely, then tighten screws again. 

  

 

[Uwe]

Items 4 and 5 in the adjustment diagram are at the other end of the hook driving shaft (see the second colored diagram.) You'll have to tilt the machine back to see it.

In order to tilt the machine back, you have to remove the bottom (green) screw in the guide finger on the right side of the body where top and bottom separate. The plastic belt cover may hide that guide finger and screws.

Item 3 and 5 in the adjustment diagram are the bearing bushings. The bushings can be shifted (after loosening the set screw) within their casting tunnels to make them touch the hook on the left and the cone gear on the right. By doing so you ensure that the hook driving shaft and hook can't move axially, because the bushings limit movement in both directions. But that also means that in order to move the hook (and shaft) axially for adjustments you need  to loosen all the screws indicated in the adjustment diagram.

A few things to watch out for: The bushings have holes in the top that allow oil to reach the shaft - don't rotate the bushings or shaft oiling may not work properly. Make sure the top set screw on the cone gear (4) stays on the flat spot of the shaft (loosen it just a little., and make sure you tighten this screw before the other one) The flat spot is wide enough to allow axial movement for adjustments.

I color coded the diagram below. Perhaps it will make more sense that way. 

 

[johnnywalks]

15 hours ago, Uwe said:

Items 4 and 5 in the adjustment diagram are at the other end of the hook driving shaft (see the second colored diagram.) You'll have to tilt the machine back to see it.

In order to tilt the machine back, you have to remove the bottom (green) screw in the guide finger on the right side of the body where top and bottom separate. The plastic belt cover may hide that guide finger and screws.

Item 3 and 5 in the adjustment diagram are the bearing bushings. The bushings can be shifted (after loosening the set screw) within their casting tunnels to make them touch the hook on the left and the cone gear on the right. By doing so you ensure that the hook driving shaft and hook can't move axially, because the bushings limit movement in both directions. But that also means that in order to move the hook (and shaft) axially for adjustments you need  to loosen all the screws indicated in the adjustment diagram.

A few things to watch out for: The bushings have holes in the top that allow oil to reach the shaft - don't rotate the bushings or shaft oiling may not work properly. Make sure the top set screw on the cone gear (4) stays on the flat spot of the shaft (loosen it just a little., and make sure you tighten this screw before the other one) The flat spot is wide enough to allow axial movement for adjustments.

I color coded the diagram below. Perhaps it will make more sense that way. 

 

 

Aww Thanks for the diagram!!!!!!! I manage to release the shaft and it moves...but how do i move bushing 3? I did loosen the screw set that holds it but i don't seem to able to move it towards sideways.