Copper Rivet Setters Question

[DavidL]

Im purchasing the smallest copper rivets I can find at #14 but I intend to use larger ones in the future. Can a number 14 copper rivet be set by a number 10 rivet setter? I don't see why it wouldn't work because the hole is not larger than the washer and should be able to push it down.

Has anyone used a larger rivet setter for a smaller sized rivet and does it do the job just as well.

[Chief31794]

I'm not sure if you could make it work or not, I use #9 and #12 and I have setters for both of them. The setters aren't that expensive, but the best way to determine if you can use it is to try it.

Chief

[Bicicouture]

I have never tried, but there is no harm in trying it out on a scrap piece and seeing how it works out!

[Northmount]

A side cutters / diagonal cutters / wire cutters and a small ball-peen hammer are all that you really need for setting copper rivets. And of course an anvil of some sort under it. Anything beyond that is a nice to have. Just make sure you press the washer down tight and trim the post to fit. A tool for doming the peened end could be nice sometimes.

Tom

[DavidL]

A side cutters / diagonal cutters / wire cutters and a small ball-peen hammer are all that you really need for setting copper rivets. And of course an anvil of some sort under it. Anything beyond that is a nice to have. Just make sure you press the washer down tight and trim the post to fit. A tool for doming the peened end could be nice sometimes.

Tom

I have a little metal anvil that slightly bigger than the rivet. do I need a full sized anvil?

[camano ridge]

David if the anvil is mounted on a solid surface, it will work for peening a rivet. You are just using the anvil as a solid surface. Of course bigger can be better.

[DavidL]

thanks camino exactly what I was looking for.

[Northmount]

Tandy's little 2# anvil http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/search/searchresults/3101-00.aspx is adequate but I prefer a larger one that stays where I put it. Needs to be solidly supported as camano says.

Tom

[Tree Reaper]

A tool for doming the peened end could be nice sometimes.

I was thinking a hammer drill would not only spin but hammer at the same time.

A standard rivet setting tool might work in the chuck.

I plan on trying this sometime.

[DavidL]

I got it to work with just the small anvil and without a secure table. It would look better if I used something under it that solid like an oak log. Also the washer/burr doesn't sit flush with the leather (leather is 3 layers of 2/3 oz. Hopefully, it is because it is not set properly.

[Northmount]

If you leave the post too long, it is likely to bend so the burr doesn't sit flat. Also while peening, use gentle taps and work in a circle going around the top of the post. It will flare more evenly and helps to pull the burr down tighter. The biggest mistake people usually make is being heavy fisted and pounding too hard.

Keep the leather and bottom of the post flat against your anvil. Tilting any of the pieces will make it hard to properly set the rivet.

I set my first copper rivet when I was around 12 years old. What a mess. I hadn't trimmed the post at all, I pounded the heck out of it, and of course bent the post over on top of the burr. Then my Dad showed me the right way to do it.

Tom

[camano ridge]

Are you using a rivet setter? Most copper rivet setters have a holl. Once you have pusehed the burr onto the shaftof that rivet place the hole in the setter over the shaft and drve down until the burr is flush agaunst the leather. Once I have the burr setI cutt the shaft using nail nippers I put the end of the nippers flush against the burr. The angle of the edge seems to give me the right amount of the shaft left. I take a partial cut then rotate the nippers a little then cut again doing that all the way around the shaft. When I make my final cut I have kind of a pyrmid at the shaft end. Using a the domer portion of the setter I dome out the shaft end and have a nice tight fit. If you do not have a setter peen it using light taps with the flat face of a hmmer until the shaft is flaired out. Here is an example of copper rivets I have done.

[DavidL]

I got it to somewhat work a few days ago might need a proper anvil since i was hammering the area on a unstable wood table, which is why my burr didn't sit flush and i couldn't peen the post. I now see the error i was making appreciate the responses.

[Nuttish]

Camano, that's quite nice rivet setting. Whose peening tool are you using? I find that the Osborne one is essentially useless for setting the burrs or doming the rivet.

[DirtyWolf13]

theres a company out there dont remember witch it is maybe weaver but ther make a coppper rivet& burr setter that comes labeled as #9 but says planly on the website that they dont sella # or #14 cause this #9 wil work with any copper r&b smaller than #9 all i remember is it cost 18$ and its blue and silver and its body shape is round . other than that the the working end og th tool look the same as tandys or osbourns or smithfields im thinking its like the guy said all you really need it cutters etc other stuff is nice but be patient and youll make it work but its also like the other guys said the setters only cost 10 bucks if your whole sale (witch i am) or you pay to be elite.

[RiverCity]

If youve got a dremel or the like, get a 5-6" number 8 hardened steel bolt smaller in diameter than the washer, and grind a concave "dome" the right depth for the exposed post into the end on it. Gives a nice finished dome to the post.

Chuck