Singer 66 For Leather

[Colt W Knight]

I think it is fair to say that most of us would like to have a really nice industrial walking foot sewing machine for our leather craft. However, most of probably can't afford one or justify the cost for our hobby. I have been doing to some hobby leather work for a few years, and I finally decided I wanted to "up my game" and do a little more with my hobby like sewing on backings/liners and burnishing the edges nicer. That's easy, right? Buy a leather burnishing tool, and sew on some backings. What I found out is that hand stitching something as a large as a guitar strap or rifle sling SUCKS! After doing a lot of hand stitching, I decided to get a machine, but alas, I couldn't find a reasonably priced used industrial walking foot sewing machine. While this thread isn't intended to sway folks from a real machine, I just wanted to show what was possible with an inexpensive old Singer.

First, I researched for a while to see what old Singer machines were suitable for light duty leather sewing. Seams there were lots of candidates, but the on most available with the easiest to find parts was the Singer 66.

Here is a link explaining the history of the Singer 66

http://www.sewalot.com/singer%2066.htm

I checked eBay and the local classifieds. Singer 66s were relatively inexpensive, and I saw a lot of youtube videos where folks were sewing lighter leather with Singer 66s. I decided to pick up this gem off a local classified add for 120$.

120$ seamed like a good deal because it was in 100% working order, came with a cabinet, working light, knee lever, and a drawer full of extras.

What I have here is number 65 cabinet

"This modern sewing cabinet and spacious writing desk has three drawers large enough to hold a complete selection of sewing supplies as well as correspondence and stationery."

Example of sewing this is about 7 ounce leather.

Edited March 20, 2014 by Colt W Knight

[Colt W Knight]

More about the machine itself

1) This was the last configuration of the model 66 before being discontnued.

2) It was made 1954-1955

3) Relatively small motor

4) Not nearly as ornate as earlier models

5) Has a reverse sew feature

Original Motor

Original foot switch/knee lever

Here is the plain foot

Reverse lever

[Colt W Knight]

When I got this thing home, I went through and cleaned/oiled it thoroughly. Then I tried sewing some leather. I learned a lot

1) The thread has to sit on a felt washer, because the felt acts like a brake to stop the spool from unwinding when you stop sewing.

2) Foot tension and thread tension make a huge difference

3) There is a lot more skill involved in sewing than just running something under the needle.

In stock configuration, I could sew 7 ounces of vegetable tan leather at 6 stiches per inch.

I could sew heavy felt on the back of 7 ounce leather.

But I had to hand turn the wheel to give the motor a little extra help to start sewing, once I got going I had to keep the motor going full bore to have enough power to continue sewing without aiding the wheel

[Colt W Knight]

Here is what I have done to the machine so far

1) Made a felt washer for the thread

2) Added a control feed foot ( half ass walking foot)

3) added a bigger motor ( this one is 3-4x more powerful)

4) Foot controller instead of knee lever ( those old cabinets were made for little women, not a 6'3'' 260 lbs dude). I do not fit underneath the desk part of the sewing machine cabinet.

5) Gave the cabinet a good once over with some furniture polish

Edited March 20, 2014 by Colt W Knight

[Colt W Knight]

What have I gained

1) The motor is definitely stronger and faster. In fact, it is way to fast. Trying to sew wide open almost always breaks the needle or frays the thread. However, you can just slightly depress the foot lever and sew very slowly. Even at slower speeds it is strong enough to sew 7 ounce leather or 7 ounce leather with a heavy wool felt lining. The motor is also strong enough to sew 2 pieces of 7 ounce leather. Although, I still don't have all the kinks worked out sewing two pieces of veg tan leather.

I plan on adding some sort of attenuator so I can dial back the speed. I bought a plug in dimmer switch, but it arrived DOA. Ill have to take it back and get another.

2) The walking foot attachment needed a lot more foot pressure to work correctly, and it is tougher to turn your work piece with the walking foot on.

3) Without the stronger motor and the walking foot, I was having a really difficult time controlling the width of the stitches. The feed dogs didn't have enough grip/power to pull the big heavy strap through the machine. There was no problem on shorter pieces, just these bigger pieces.

It took me 3-4 hours to hand stitch this guitar strap

Took me about 3 minutes to sew this on the Singer 66

Edited March 20, 2014 by Colt W Knight

[Colt W Knight]

I need to make an edge guide or Seam Guide so that I can sew a straight line. I am not skilled enough to just feed the leather straight by hand.

Here is an example of sewing heavy wool felt to 7 ounce veg tan leather with the new setup. Note, I didn't have to help the machine at all, and I sewed slow enough I could manage feeding the leather straight.

Edited March 20, 2014 by Colt W Knight

[Colt W Knight]

Would love for the experienced folks to chime in on setup and capabilities. I am happy with this machine for sewing liners on my straps and slings.

[Red Cent]

Great show and tell, Colt. I know not of sewing machines, but I do admire the desire to "git 'er done".

[Colt W Knight]

Thanks Red Cent.

[BDAZ]

Come by the old time jam 6:30 to 9 Friday

Steve Langford's "Third Friday" old-time music jam is coming up.

• Date: Friday, March 21, 2014
• Time: 6:30 - 9:00 pm.
• Place: Steve's music room
• Address: 9140 N. Shadow Mountain Dr., Oro Valley
• Map: Click here
• Chairs are provided

Cya!

Bob

Cya!

Bob

[howie696]

I have a 99K it's just a shorter 66K same mechanicals and I'm trying to find leather point needles, without much success :-(

did you find any??

cheers

[Colt W Knight]

I have a 99K it's just a shorter 66K same mechanicals and I'm trying to find leather point needles, without much success :-(

did you find any??

cheers

Yeah, I can go to our local big box store ( JoAnn Fabric and Craft) sewing center and buy them.

Schmetz Leather Machine Needles. They are 5.50$ per 5. I use size #110/18

http://www.joann.com/schmetz-leather-machine-needles-5-pk-size-16-100/1074301.html#q=leather+needles&start=4

Edited March 20, 2014 by Colt W Knight

[howie696]

Thanks I'll have a look

cheers

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

There should be no trouble finding the 15X2 needle.

The 66/99 class is not the SInger Iwould select as the 15 class is better.

If you are going to use a domestic machine then look for a PFAFF 30.

[Ole South]

Re: Edge Guide/Seaming Guide for the straight stitch machines.

I use a hardwood block (closed grain, unvarnished) of maple or such and a rare earth magnet or two salvaged from an old hard drive set flush into the bottom. A thin piece of soft tacky self-stick vinyl (a friend is a sign maker) keeps the diy guide from drifting. It's not really necessary with the approx 1 1/4 x 1/2 inch magnets from the average 3.5" computer hard drive (you'll find 2 in there) but the vinyl also protects the machine's finish if you're worried about things like that.

There are also threaded holes in most old Singers for a slotted "T" guide you can secure with a thumb screw like an inverted router guide. I've not used one yet but you can find them amongst the misc. accessories on Ebay or in your local Singer repair guy's junkbox.

I stole the magnetic block idea from a Sailrite video. Cost = about 20 min cutting the magnet's inset (ie.$0.00 vs the $25.00 5 1/2" Sailrite Mag Guide). Make sure you use one or more ceramic or rare earth magnets to get the holding power you'll need.

It's a cheap and effective way to guide those long straps and edges on a fixed presser foot machine. (Round or taper the end of the guide for any inside curves you may have to sew)

Edited December 20, 2014 by Ole South

[Wishful]

Nice write up

[lowes48]

Yes, nice write up! I'm looking for a cheap route for a machine myself, but as I can see from your posts, the cheap route ends up being expensive and time consuming a lot of the time!

[Tramps Leatherworking]

These old machines sometimes get a bad wrap on here --- I have two 90+ year old Singer 127 treadle machines that I got for free, cleaned them up, replaced the belts and bobbin wheels, put them into use in my shop, and I have made lots of money with them... Do they have their limitations, absolutely, but so do the $2000.00+ machines we buy today...

[catskin]

Here is another suggestion Singer 78-3 if you can find one, mine will zip through 5/16 " of leather like butter, they have walking foot lots of stitch length adjustment but no reverse ( I very rarely use the reverse on my machines that have it )Mine cost me $25.00 for the head in perfect working condition. Then I paid $20.00 for a clutch motor and $20,00 for an industrial table. So all in all very affordable. While I am not doubting what you can do with yours I think this one can all your 66 can plus some more. So worth a look for any one that can find one.

[Ole South]

For those using singer 66's or 99's invest in an old treadle hand wheel. Ten or 15 bucks, the extra ounces of inertia DOES make a difference while sewing leather!

Re:New motors ... they are a nice addition but the foot pedals leave a lot to be desired. Most of the original pedals are single or dual carbon stack varistors. Take them apart, clean each carbon disk or discard it if it's too badly burnt (balance the dual stacks and don't be too picky, the disks don't have to be perfect) Do one stack at a time, there are a TON of disks in each stack. The old pedals are much easier to feather. Lay a paper towel flat on your granite block or any hard true surface, and polish each side of each disk flat on the towel. Keep the disks flat as you'll break more trying to pick them up or turn them over than actually cleaning them.

All that being said, I'll second the previous post; 15-91 is my favorite of all these old Singers when doing leather (the 66 or 201 for cloth). The 201 has a better stitch... but imo the 15-91 out performs all the "home" machines across the spectrum of leathers. Another big plus is both the '-91 and the 201 can backtack the same stitch length as forward.

Catskin, do you know what other walking foot models have compatable foot sets with your 78? I have a Consew 28 and am having trouble finding a less aggressive foot for leatherwork. All I have is a piping/cording set and a (?)zipper set.

Edited February 28, 2015 by Ole South

[catskin]

Ole South, I am not real familiar with all the things available for the 78, it has a slotted smooth plate on the bottom and smooth feet but since the needle moves the leather, it does move it never slips. I think you might be best to talk to Bob in Toledo he seems to know about all these machines. I haven't used it much but what I did with it, it did it very well. Where I feel it real shines is it does NOT mark the leather.