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  • Contributing Member
Posted

As Kate points out in that other thread, the liquid can actually leave a residue on the leather. Depending on the tannage, the amount and length of time, this can also cause permanent discoloration (defeating the purpose of the mask).

We use some mylar stencils, though if we stencil we generally cut our own. Bristol board works about as well as anything - available in about any print shop for pennies (or pence, or quid...).

No adhesive at all as a rule ...and your single-action airbrush is not the problem. I've seen some STUNNING art done with single-action brushes.

The pressure will depend on the dye you're using and the brush you have. My Paasche sprays Fiebing's dyes at anywhere 15 - 35 psi, depending on the look I want. Normally around 20.

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

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Posted

I believe the problem to be the bleeding which is bound to happen with penetrating dye.

The only sure cure I'm aware of is a sealing process on the entire surface to prevent the bleeding.

Careful hand brushing will work.

Spraying several very light coats may work or switching over to a water based dye that won't penetrate.

  • Contributing Member
Posted (edited)

This was done with a waxy stencil paper, should be able to find online or in any hobby store. No sticky. No liquid. No bleed. Just have to use a VERY sharp knife to cut the shapes (burrs = bleed).

Edited by JLSleather

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

  • Members
Posted

Hmm the sealer doesn't actually seal. So the whole point of doing that area in the first place was made pointless. I did mask it just in case but the dye still got under the tape, same as before, and went straight through the 3 times coated surface. Why would a company sell something in their range branded as 'Leather sealer' when it still leaves a porous surface? I can see it labeled as a finish but not when it says on the packaging it's a sealer. :/ Need to find a decent resist to spirit-based dyes now.

Kind regards, Raven

http://wolfscrafts.com/

  • Members
Posted

RavenAus if you try the latex mask get the Winsor Newton latex masking fluid from an art store the general stuff used for making casting moulds here has a high ammonia content and turns the leather grey ok on stuff that will have a dark background but not on natural or light coloured dyes as the grey doesn't come out.

Posted

How does the latex prevent the dye from bleeding over and then up from the side?

post-19342-0-78262600-1398142866_thumb.j

  • Members
Posted

I use liquid latex without problems.

Posted

I use liquid latex without problems.

With penetrating dyes?

  • Members
Posted

Yes, but the dyes are airbrushed on. When I first started experimenting I did notice a slight change in shade where the latex had been, so now I apply the latex to the whole area being masked so that if there is a change in shade it will be uniform over the whole area. I just paint the liquid latex on with a brush, a small one for small detail or near edges and a larger one for the bigger areas.

  • Members
Posted

Hi Raven. As A fellow Aussie, it may be useful to know that brushable latex is available from Adelaide Moulding and Casting - amcsupplies.com.au.............i would paint a little of this around the edges of your stencil, press onto the leather then clean away any oosings with a cloth dipped in soapy water. This provides a good seal, as long as you spray LIGHT coats of dye. Hope this helps.

Cheers, Lois

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