shoepatcher Report post Posted December 29, 2018 Jimi, I have to say, even after 4 years later, this project still blows me away how well you did rebuilding this scrap of a machine into a nice workable 335 and I rebuild machines!!!!! Truly a great job and labor of love. I once rebuild a Singer 168101 post about this bad but I was able to get most of the parts and screws and that made it easier than what you had to do. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 10 hours ago, shoepatcher said: Jimi, I have to say, even after 4 years later, this project still blows me away how well you did rebuilding this scrap of a machine into a nice workable 335 and I rebuild machines!!!!! Truly a great job and labor of love. I once rebuild a Singer 168101 post about this bad but I was able to get most of the parts and screws and that made it easier than what you had to do. glenn Thanks for your kind words Glenn, I could do this kind of stuff all day if people would pay me hahaha... The pity was it arriving broken, as i would have liked to keep the original parts on it instead of changing them, but sometimes that´s what happens. For sure parts are the biggest problem if you don´t have a few donor machines lying around of similar type. Almost nothing metric fits. I did buy another cheap 335 a couple of months ago (thanks to Danishman here on the forum and his barn find) and took some pictures of the restoration but it was in a lot better condition and only really needed cleaning up so there was nothing really special about it in that sense. i will maybe just put them up here instead of starting a new thread??? Thanks again Glenn, Regards Jimi. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alexitbe Report post Posted December 29, 2018 Hi Jimi... Yes, please post them here... I would like to see also.. Alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 I have to start off by giving a big thanks to Soren (Danishman) here on the forum for his help, patience and very good packing and getting this 335 to me. This machine came from his barn find, as you know Soren found a barn full of Pfaff and other machines which the new owners did not want, so after looking at a couple of the pictures he sent i saw a 335 in the middle of the 145 land and said to Soren that this would possibly be worth while picking up. He said he was not interested in it as his wife already had a very good 335 so i thought i might be able to push it in the room "somewhere"??. This is a similar type of restoration as the first one in this thread, the big difference being a lot less rust and no broken parts to fix after posting. Here are some pictures of the tear down and build up. I am not a sewing machine tec and do this mainly to save a few bob and learn at the same time. So if you see me do something wrong in the pictures, do not copy it! hoho.. First the Box??? This is a very well packed machine.. 10/10 for Soren.. There was padding all around the machine and very tight, no movement. in the last picture foam had been taken out from the sides. As you can see, compare this with the black one and straight away you can see the difference. bottom of the stand is present, no broken parts, less rust better paint. But... it is a machine taken from a working place and stuck in a barn?? so Wattssap?? Hand turning is free wheelin Franklin so Let´s start by cleaning the parts that are rusty, this time i am NOT going to see if it sews first, because i am sure this will. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 I will skip the front as you can see it is just taking off the thread guides and feet and needle plate etc.. This screw stud will come out by loosening the screw out from the back right hand side, the one you can see is for the curved plate that stops the spring. As you can see i have taken this apart to clean everything but if you were taking this off i think you could leave the stud and spring on with the plate and just take off the top screw and this one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 Seems to have a timing mark on the hand wheel? Looks like the back foot is just beginning to go down when it is at this position. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 Ohhps! out of focus. just going from screw to screw and taking them out This part was not on the old black one, it is for the pin that goes through the head to open the tension disks. Once cleaned we can see the reverse order instead of taking the same pictures twice. So this is pretty much where i want to get to with this one also. no shafts coming out etc... because i think they don´t need to come out. Under here someone has put a silver like grease on the pinions and the small box for collecting the oil is missing, hence the two holes with no screws. so after putting oil down the tube from the front, this would go onto the pinions and any surplus fall in the box. So i think i will leave the grease on until i find a box ( could be a couple of years, that´s all??) Not too different from the black 335. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 (edited) Is there a number hidden under the paint?? Natural soap and warm water.. Remember if you want to take out these bushings to unscrew the two grub screws first. I should have taken the right hand side bushing out first, as the left one was inside and not standing proud of the hole, this way the bushing would have fallen out in the middle. so i had to get both out the same side as the right hand one did not leave space enough for the other to drop out.Bahh no worries. They were not that dirty really?? I personally don´t like hammering old parts out of casting!! you know why?? That`s better. Oh, one thing to remember, the position of the bushings, you will see why later. Edited December 29, 2018 by jimi Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 Just to make sure the holes are free from dirt and in line with the casting otherwise you wont be able to oil the shaft from here. Sorry, in the last pictures of the bushings you don´t see the holes but they also have holes in them to let pass the oil to the shaft through the bushing. In this picture the screwdriver is passing through the casting and the bushing. That is a piece of steel bar for tapping out the top bushing for cleaning the rust, not the foot bar! I think now that it has no rust and it is clean i will give it a couple of coats of lacquer to protect it again.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 So parts are cleaned and ready for assembly.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 As you can see the basket needs cleaning before going back on again. Be careful, very small screws ahead!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ensitmike Report post Posted December 29, 2018 (edited) This is so awesome. I want to do this to a Singer or Adler patcher, hopefully soon Edited December 29, 2018 by ensitmike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 Now the basket will not fall out we have to put the finger positioner on to hold it in the right place. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted December 29, 2018 Yep. The black one you did had to be a very early 335 since it was black. I have seen very few of those machines ever. The Pfaff 335 was the best in it's class for decades. The best machine now is the Adler 669 of which I have one. No other new generation machine in this class. It is a beast. Keep up the photos. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 Here we have this front assembly plate where the needle plate fixes to and the finger positioner, that is the small plate on the front with the two small screws which will hold the basket in its place and stop it from spinning around. if this happens then you will hear your needle bang and you could do some damage especially if you have a heavy needle in it. One thing about the old black 335, this part has one fixing screw which screws from underneath and seems to be adjustable?? where as this finger is in a fixed position, no adjusting. Someone has put in a domed head screw?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 This screw is where your bar moves front to back for your feed dog motion and as you can see the screw has a oiling hole which later comes out the side, well you can see just how much dirt this thing eats!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 Ok so back in and on the arm again.... so do you see that??? when something tells you that something is not right... then it´s not right,right! The arm is raised above the front plate and there is no obstruction where it pivots at the back, also i know from the black 335 this is on top of that front plate. so i quickly put in the needle plate and feed dog and saw that it was pushing it down. Me thinks that someone tried to take it out with a screwdriver and forced it up?? It is difficult to slide out as you need to push down lightly under where that dirty screw was as this is mobile and moves up,down,front,back. this is easier to get out in the black 335, no pushing nuttin just straight out.. I did find one on Ebay yonks ago for ??? 10 euro! so it did come in handy. And yes another dirty hole! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 That is a drop in part, no fuss and as you can see it is down to the plate. so the other bar was bent. needle plate screw missing For putting on the stitch length lever i think it was easier when in position 0. screw the outer part first then tighten in 0 position then put the spring in and tighten. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 Binder plate going back on, remember if you are binding then great but if you change out feed dog and needle plate this will probably drive u nuts as it will move your hand if you rest it on it and the screws could mark a leather project, so if you can look for something else. I used a 4-5mm aluminium plate which i recessed out where the screw goes back and forward leaving the plate unmovable.Well you could make it out of plastic if you have a 3d printer or whatever?? I had a small piece of felt left over from the black 335, now i know where it goes??? it gets held on with a small screw on the inside of the head cavity on the left side and is probably oiled regularly as the base of the take up arm touches it every turn. It is almost in the position in the picture, there is a small window at the back outside left where the oil is applied. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 Quick clean out, and i think i will put that block in as it might fall out of place? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 (edited) In this first picture you can see the bushings are in and lined up perfectly with the holes for oiling??? but it was not to be... A little oil and a soft face hammer, not a steel just in case. By the way that part was full of dirt on the inside up near the top, it has a small sleeve if i remember on the inside. there is a small hole on the side probably for air as it looks too small for oiling?? Forgot to say, when taking this part out there is a small grub screw on the side to loosen first! Now to get the spring in there for the back foot!! Edited December 29, 2018 by jimi Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 I am thinking i went OTT this time with the amount of pictures??? This spring is very strong!! and i always try to note down where the linkages go, this way it will mate with the same part it was previously worn with. the small one here for the needle bar assembly has pfaff written on the back and the part nº for example so that was my reference. In this picture you can see the screw has been taken out where the needle bar and foot assembly swing, If you do not want to take the whole shaft out then just take this screw out and slide the assembly off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 This will help get your foot lift arm in easier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted December 29, 2018 So about this time i realized that something was put in wrong because when i could i would turn the hand wheel over to check now and again if everything was going ok, but there seemed to be something....mm giving resistance? so i checked the front assembly and that was ok and smooth, then i checked the small block and the bushing wheel that is for the foot lifter, but that had not been moved? (the one in the yellow circle in the box) and saw that the arm had moved after a cycle. so i looked back at the first picture, had a look at the old 335 and realized that the holes were slightly out of alignment for that reason, to not let the arms move. so bushings back out again and placed where they were slightly out of alignment before and that felt better after wheelin a couple of times. Here you can see the arm against the bushing, the back one the same. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
