[Help Needed] Juki Du1181 For Sewing Exotic Watch Straps

[teddycrafts]

Hi guys, i seriously need help from experts regarding buying leather sewing machine. Firstly please let me explain the products i am making.

I am making watch straps for big watches such as panerai and graham, and breitling, my straps are about 4-5mm thick. Skins are crocodile, lizards, shark, crazy horse. I have no knowledge about sewing machines.

After doing some research, i know i need a walking foot for this job, thus i called Juki Singapore, i might consider other bands, but Juki is based in Singapore too, thus i can save the shipping cost.

Speaking to the lady over the phone, she told me that i should get a DU1181 walking foot for my straps, she said if i opt for other machines it might damage my straps, she said because straps are small and exquisite stuff. Nonetheless, she also told me that i must get a motor, i think it's called siva or silver motor. She said that this motor allows me to control the stitch 1 by 1. I personally feel that i need it too since i am doing watch straps and i need to turn the stitch at the end,etc.

I personally don't trust what they said, i came across people who tried to hard sell their products, ending up the consumer will suffer.

The Du1181 cost 1200SGD ( 959USD ), siva motor cost 600SGD ( 480USD ), total would cost 1800SGD.

Do you guys think i should get this machine? Or something else under JUki? The most important is that it can sew through my exotic straps, and can allow me to control stitch by stitch.

First layer is either shark, crocodile or lizard, second and third layer would be soft/mid soft cow hide. Of course all 3 layers are glued together, sides are polished before the sewing. I use all parts of a croc including tail and belly, i make hornback straps too.

Please advice me if i should get this machine or somthing else.

Edited May 18, 2014 by teddycrafts

[teddycrafts]

Previously, i considered portable ones such as the the rex 607, but was told it won't sew through my products thus my decision to spend money on those industrial ones now.

[teddycrafts]

How about JUKI DU141? It has servo motor installed and lower cost than the one the lady suggested.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Juki-Industrial-Walkingfoot-sewing-machine-and-table-MODLE-DU141-PICK-UP-ONLY-/141278511268?pt=BI_Sewing_Machines&hash=item20e4db00a4

[CowboyBob]

This is a good machine for sewing canvas or vinyls BUT I would never recommend it for sew leather esp fine or thin leather.Reason being is this machine has feed dogs & feet with teeth on them,you can grind off the teeth on the feet & stop the marking on top but you need the teeth of the feed dogs to pull the leather through which can leave marks & can scratche when turning.You would be better suited to look at Juki's 1541S model or similar machine like Consew 206RB-5 which have a walking foot & needle feed,the 206 has an optional slotted needle plate for it the eliminates the feed dog so you won't have any marking on your leather.Highlead 618 is another good one to look at.

[teddycrafts]

Thanks for the reply, are you referring to 1181 that is not suitable? I am trying to look for those machines you suggested, and i would need one with the servo motor right?

Edited May 18, 2014 by teddycrafts

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks for the reply, are you referring to 1181 that is not suitable? I am trying to look for those machines you suggested, and i would need one with the servo motor right?

Yes, the 1541 is a standard walking foot machine, with triple feed. The standard presser feet are smooth on the bottom. Ones with teeth are just accessories. Make sure you get smooth presser feet.

There are many accessory feet for this type of machine. You may benefit from an edge guide foot for your straps. This foot has a thin spring loaded steel plate that is hinged at the back. The guide normally sits all the way down on the right side of the work and keeps your stitch line a fixed distance inside the edge. They are available in different spacings from the guide to the center of the inside foot. You might want a set that places the stitches about 1/8 inch from the edge, or maybe a little closer.

Alternately, you could purchase a left toe only outer foot and a swing-away edge guide (mounted on the right, on the body). This would let you run the stitch line any distance inside the edge you want.

Make sure you order leather point needles!

Regarding the servo motor; try to get one with a very small motor pulley (e.g. 50mm). This gives more slow speed range, with higher punching power. Normally, many of these motors lost torque at their slowest speeds. The smaller pulley will get some of that power back, at the expense of the top end speeds.

Edited May 18, 2014 by Wizcrafts

[teddycrafts]

Thanks for the advice given wizcrafts and cowboybob, that is what i need.

[BodegaBrasil]

Hi Teddy.
I'm new here and (a rookie as well) on the art or sewing with machines, but learning VERY fast due so many mistakes since 4 years when I started.
However, I am very experienced in work with exotic skins as you described.
Could you please post some pictures of your work so I can have an idea what you really looking for?
Because, 4 to 5 millimeters is a very, VERY THICK edge for a watch strap.
IF you want to compete on this "classy" market (as you said "panerai and graham, and breitling"), 2mm is already considered thick and 3mm are for really BIG cases.
And for all those owners of these brands (and not knock offs), I'm pretty sure they rather have something made literally the "italian way" BY HAND, using 2 needles to stitch, on a stitching horse, etc, etc.
Take care.

[teddycrafts]

Hey, 4mm is actually the normal thickness for panerai, i am making watch bands for 45mm-47mm watches like panerai, breitling and graham.

Sometimes 5mm is required for big watches like 47mm ones.

[BodegaBrasil]

Sorry Teddycrafts, but, at the time I used to make them, the thickness was 35mm.
But maybe you talking here for the thickness of the CENTER of the strap OR THE EDGES where the stitches will be done?
I used to skive them before ... glued ... paint and THEN stitch.
As I said, if you could upload some images ...

[Wizcrafts]

5 hours ago, Sticks said:

Hi there,

sorry to reopen this thread,,but what machine did you go for in the end.?

I am also looking for a machine, however my straps are 4-5mm in the padded area and 1-2 on the edges.

What is the best machine for this type of work.?

See CowboyBob's reply about the Consew 206RB.

[Techsew Ron]

6 hours ago, Sticks said:

Hi there,

sorry to reopen this thread,,but what machine did you go for in the end.?

I am also looking for a machine, however my straps are 4-5mm in the padded area and 1-2 on the edges.

What is the best machine for this type of work.?

You may want to consider a roller foot, needle feed machine - we have a machine designed for sewing watch straps that comes with a rubber roller foot and smooth feed dog to prevent marking. A bunch of our customers use it for high end watch straps.

Ron