Stiffening Leather

[JLSleather]

Yeah, sad that it's such a chore to get consistent quality in leather these days. Shouldn't be that difficult. "A" grade should be "A" grade (well, really).

Some variation in hides is to be expected, but that's WHY leather is graded. If I order a "B", then next time I order a "B" I should get basically the same thing. A scratch in a different spot, or a wrinkle where the last one wasn't .. fine. But one hide that firms up just fine, then a hide that drapes over the edge of the table like a cloth and covered in fat wrinkles? And they're BOTH "B"? Uhm, no.

I've said before, I don't mind PAYING premium as long as I'm GETTING premium. But price difference isn't THAT severe (a couple exceptions). Seriously, if a good-looking, quality hide is $8/ft, and the one I DON'T want is $6/ft, what's the point of "saving" money? Not worth it to me to cut around bad spots, weak points, and scars just to 'save' $50 (which, you won't anyway, since throwing out the bad spots increases the price of the usable leather anyway).

I don't go to HO and buy 20 sides, because I don't want to have to control the humidity and keep it from drying out before I get to use it.

[BDAZ]

I wet form most of my products and have drying racks set up in the AZ sun. Black items will reach a surface temperature of over 145F and natural around 130. 2-3 hours and the products are completely dry and rigid. I have never had a failure. Glue sets in a hurry as well.

I use drum dyed veg tanned leather for production which yields consistency, a good finish and saves time. Well worth the extra cost.

Cya!

Bob

[Marvolo]

Have you ever thought about impregnating the leather with wax. I have never used it on a sheath or holster but it works great for pouches.

Have you ever thought about impregnating the leather with wax. I have never used it on a sheath or holster but it works great for pouches.

[Red Cent]

Marvolo, you want to dry it out after finishing the product. BDAZ has a ready made oven and big enough for his stuff . I would not think the wax would help the leather to become very stiff.

The reason for the post was that each of us may be living in different worlds for leather. However, we discuss the manipulation of leather as if there isn't any difference in the leather each of us use. And there is a difference. A big difference. When I started making holsters, the leather burnished beautifully, after a quick dunk in water and left to dry, they became super stiff. Like rawhide, almost.

Then I obtained some very beautiful leather that was mark or scar free. But it was too soft and supple. It would not burnish well and would not become stiff with my regular procedure. So I asked the question. And I discovered that a lot bake their leather to acquire the stiffness needed. Different worlds or knowledge of how "their" leather reacted to burnishing and stiffening.

Because of the reasons (leather grading) stated before, I believe I can get results from cheap, dry leather that is, hopefully, scar and hole free.