Tallbald Report post Posted May 21, 2014 I'm still so new to leather crafting, but I love it and will, Lord willing, probably be enjoying it until the day I leave this earth. Three years under my belt, and I finally had to buy a sewing machine to do the stitching my arthritic hands and joints have stopped letting me do. As a side note, I am loving learning to use my new Cowboy CB3500, and because of my machine I now have new capabilities and want to branch out to additional styles of holsters and personal accessories. I love full flap holsters, and have made several of different styles and patterns. But to date I have never made a lined holster. I've read many threads here and have taken notes to remember what I've studied. So far I think the best method for me is to use two layers of 4/5 ounce veg tanned leather, gluing the flesh sides together and proceeding as if I was using a single layer. But I have a few questions I've yet to find answers to in my reading. I wish I could locate a tutorial on lining a holster, but for now I will just ask and hope members tolerate what I'm sure are oft repeated questions. When gluing the flesh sides together shouldn't I apply a coating of contact cement to the entire flesh surface? When the cement is cured and I bend the leather for the holster bucket, will the inner layer compress and conform to the bend or will it buckle and separate from the outer layer at the inside of the holster? If it tends to buckle, how do I prevent this? In the case of a lined full flap holster, will the frequent bending and flexing of the flap as the holster is used eventually separate the layers at the "hinge" area? My holsters are completely edge sewn and I expect that will help prevent this, but would I be better off to sew stitch lines in flexing areas to prevent separation over time? Does a full layer of cement between the two layers of leather make the completed material so stiff it is harder to form? I really appreciate help. I'm trying to learn from the folks here who have been down my road before. Don Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted May 21, 2014 I always put glue on everthing and stich everthing. As far as i know none have seperated in the last 30 years. If you glue everthing and put it togeather flat the liner will wrinkle some at the fold. If you glue everthing and put the pieces togeather bent over not folded all the way it shouldn't wrinkle at the fold. The trick is not to let either side touch till everthing is where you want it. You can put wax paper on both sides of the liner leave the fold part bare so it will stick and work your way out one side at a time. Oh make sure you cut the liner over size sense it's not lined up perfect you can trim after you get it glued in and stitched. I never noticed it being harder to mold after glueing but i don't do all the detail work molding like some folks do either. Just sew around the edge of the holster. You don't need extra sew lines for a flap holster. Leave the welt side to last to sew so you can get the welt in. Theirs really nothing to it just think about what your doing and you will be fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted May 21, 2014 Two 4 ounce is a little on the light side. I use 8-9 with a 4-5 liner. I skive the front fold on the 8-9 to make it easier. Glue them, square and even the edges, bevel, sand a round edge and burnish. I do this and I finish the holster except the sealer. Then I stitch. They may wrinkle a little but it is on the inside and never noticed. Skived the back fold on these:). They are 8-9/4-5 leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted May 21, 2014 I'm still so new to leather crafting, but I love it and will, Lord willing, probably be enjoying it until the day I leave this earth. Three years under my belt, and I finally had to buy a sewing machine to do the stitching my arthritic hands and joints have stopped letting me do. As a side note, I am loving learning to use my new Cowboy CB3500, and because of my machine I now have new capabilities and want to branch out to additional styles of holsters and personal accessories. I love full flap holsters, and have made several of different styles and patterns. But to date I have never made a lined holster. I've read many threads here and have taken notes to remember what I've studied. So far I think the best method for me is to use two layers of 4/5 ounce veg tanned leather, gluing the flesh sides together and proceeding as if I was using a single layer. But I have a few questions I've yet to find answers to in my reading. I wish I could locate a tutorial on lining a holster, but for now I will just ask and hope members tolerate what I'm sure are oft repeated questions. ANSWER: Like Red Cent said, . . . 4/5 may be a bit light, . . . unless both pieces are a lot closer to 5 than 4. You might want to get a dial caliper (not one of those cheap, junk, digital ones, . . . get a real mechanical dial) and get a chart that lists 0 to 1 inch in 64ths as a decimal fraction. Each 1/64 is the equivalent of 1 oz of thickness of leather. IE .250 = 16 oz, . . . .125 = 8 oz, . . . .0625 = 4 oz, . . . etc. Leather suppliers sometimes hedge on those thicknesses, . . . and sometimes it is hard to judge by the fingertips alone. Personally for full flap revolver (and for Western cowboy stuff) I use a double 7/8 and have always been happy with the result. I've not had real good experience with two different thicknesses, . . . so I do them both the same. When gluing the flesh sides together shouldn't I apply a coating of contact cement to the entire flesh surface? ANSWER: YES, . . . a full coat, . . . edge to edge, . . . on each piece. When the cement is cured and I bend the leather for the holster bucket, will the inner layer compress and conform to the bend or will it buckle and separate from the outer layer at the inside of the holster? If it tends to buckle, how do I prevent this? ANSWER: John Bianchi taught that on a lined holster it is better to lightly skive the liner where it folds over. Red Cent made a rear folder, . . . most Western rigs are folded down the top of the barrel, . . . taking a light skiving of about 20%, . . . about 2 inches wide, . . . works for me when I make a SAA holster for a Western rig. In the case of a lined full flap holster, will the frequent bending and flexing of the flap as the holster is used eventually separate the layers at the "hinge" area? My holsters are completely edge sewn and I expect that will help prevent this, but would I be better off to sew stitch lines in flexing areas to prevent separation over time? ANSWER: No, . . . edge stitching, . . . edge to edge cementing will handle this. Does a full layer of cement between the two layers of leather make the completed material so stiff it is harder to form? ANSWER: The two layers are harder to form just in the fact that it is two layers, . . . but many of us have been doing this for years, . . . if not decades, . . . and "it works", . . . just have to work a little harder at it. I really appreciate help. I'm trying to learn from the folks here who have been down my road before. Don You are more than welcome, . . . we were all beginners once, . . . my first flap holster was for a Ruger Super Redhawk, . . . (didn't know any better), . . . made it out of about 9/10 leather, . . . laced the sides with 16 oz lacing. When I got done, . . . the holster itself could have been used as a weapon,.......lol May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted May 21, 2014 Tallbald, I am not going to add much to wha thas been said. However it is as simple as it seems. I cut out my holster lay it on the lining material flesh side to flesh side draw a light line on the flesh side of the liner remove the holster now I know where to paint my glue. I glue the entire area with in that line then extend the glue a little over the lines (I won't have to worry about lining up exactly). Glue the back of the holster. Let glue set appropriately. THen press the two pieces together. Now cut around your holster to free it from the rest of the lining material. You now have a flat lined holster. Sew the edge of the holster at the mouth (top end) and at the toe. SHape your holster around your gun or mold as normal. Stitch the main seam. If you get any wrinkling on the inside at the fold use a hammer handle to rub some of it out. If you want a step by step with pictures (it is a little more complex but not much) to the holster sling sheath forum and look iin the pinned section for the California holster pattern and tutorial, click on the tutorial Jim Simmons walks you through lining a holster his way. I think he does the same in his tutorial for a western holster also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tallbald Report post Posted May 22, 2014 As always everyone I am overwhelmed by the generosity shown to me in the sharing of hard earned knowledge with a neophyte like me. I will bookmark this thread. I have been considering printing off wonderful information like the answers given and keeping them in a folder for myself at the bench. It's so much information that I have some trouble remembering it all and I could have it right at hand as I work. Thank you all again. Don. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg528it Report post Posted May 22, 2014 Good to know. When I started this spring the manager at the local Tandys, who had several NICE holsters on display in his shop, said to glue the layers as you go to avoid wrinkles on the inside. His were beautiful inside and out. Hmmmmmm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
