Saddle Tree Question

[oltoot]

Dirtclod,

I and some others agree and don't rough up very much but in defense of the rough bunch, most trees arrive with a THICK coat of spar varnish applied by dipping in vats, often multiple times. The varnish adds moisture protection but doesn't do much if anything for structural integrity so vigorous roughing of the varnish but not breaking the top grain layer of the rawhide looks destructive but really isn't. The biggest baddest offender that I have found in many saddles comes from cutting the stirrup leather slot in the ground seat and scoring the rawhide cover at what is often the weakest part of the whole assembly, the top side just across from the slot in the tree. Coincidentally, this is what Arizona bars overcome. Ask the engineer, sometimes its not just the mass of the piece that determines its resistance to certain kinds of stress but its shape and orientation to the stress (rigging placement and conformation) So although this aint rocket science its a lot harder than falling off of a log.

[Billy H]

Hi Rod and Denise!

You two always have great stuff to read and think about--- Thank you. Regards Billy

[Billy H]

Oltoot,

It is very obvious you have lots of experience and bring up some great points about saddles. Sure appreciate that----- Billy

[rktaylor]

Oltoot is correct about the cross sectional area, shape and orientation affecting the strength of a member. I won't bore you with the terminology. Think about 2x4 and 2x6 boards laying flat. There is a difference in strength but not that much. Turn the two on edge and the difference becomes greater. Notch one of these boards when it's laying flay and then see what it can support. I think that's what he is talking about when he mentions scoring the rawhide at the stirrup slots.

Randy

[Rod and Denise Nikkel]

We also agree that roughing up the tree is less than desirable. The varnish is the water proofing and scuffing will remove that even if the rawhide isn't damaged, which it often is. Finding varnish that glues will adhere to well these days is another story...

Also agree that the back of the stirrup groove is the weakest point of the bar, and we've seen too many trees where the rawhide was scored there as well, and that removing the back stirrup groove (making the bar the Arizona type) will increase the strength there. However, so will increasing the quality of wood and rawhide used, and we will not make Arizona bars because of the negative effects on fit for the horse. Removing the back stirrup groove has more effects than just increasing strength. We have explained more in the past here: http://www.rodnikkel.com/content/saddle-tree-blog-from-shop-and-desk/of-arizona-bars-and-why-we-won-t-make-them/ (I am not trying to promote our website, but I just don't want spend a lot of time rewriting what we have said before, more than once...)

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

There are many good and experienced hand here. A lot of good information and oh yes, yu can always count on some realy detailed answers form some great folks like Toot, Denise and Rod. Like I like to sy, I like the old fashioned way.

Bob

[BOB BRENNER]

Denise and Rod, I always enjoy you insightful comments, you are ahead of the curve. Your info on flexible bars answered the question to my next research project. In your other reference the comments by Watsabaugh and Severe were very helpful. So, thanks.

Also, and this is for every one. This weekend I was down at Harry Vold’s place helping them get ready for their summer run when Harry said you need to see something. I just about died. There was a saddle tree with the swell made out of a tree fork and a cantle made out of the bend in a limb. The person that gave to him said his great grandfather used it. I’m thinking around the time of the Civil War. Did not have my camera and my cell phone is an antique like me and doesn’t have one. Will get pictures this fall.