I Want To Use This Log

[LoyalNine]

So I have this wood here from some trees I dropped last year. Was considering using it as a small area on my workbench. My work bench is a bit flimsy and would not mind having something with a bit more meat underneath. Thinking I could finish this up with stain and urethane and tap the top section to hold some tools.

Honestly I'd this a foolish idea?

Edited June 4, 2014 by LoyalNine

[LTC]

nah. not of you don't mind it forming splits over time.

[J Hayes]

I saw Nigel in a video work around a large stump, 30 inches tall maybe, anyway he had tools around the circumference held by a leather strap leaving the top unobstructed. Just a thought

[WScott]

Great idea!

You can stabilize the wood and limit it from cracking

Here is some stuff:

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/404901822720397576/

[LNLeather]

Great idea! I love the artistic minds here at LW.net...

Never be afraid to try something new. (It) might just be

the next new thing that everyone wants to try...

[Hi Im Joe]

I use a log just like that as a base for punching holes. It works really well. It's ugly though because I can't put lacquer on.

[Not Awl Together]

I think its a great project and not foolish at all. To possibly assist you, I thought I might add a few insights and some alternative suggestions that may be of some use for your consideration.

Keeping wood rounds from cracking or splitting can be very difficult or nigh on impossible. The reason is moisture enters and leaves the end grain much faster than the face grain, radial/ tangential grain pressure is out of balance and the fibers of wood separate, subsequently cracking and splitting. Also, since wood is a "live" material, it shrinks and swells through out the year depending on where you live and your climate. For example, I'm sure many folks are familiar with doors or windows that swell and stick.

Depending on species and intended final use, green or fresh sawn woods that will not be kiln dryed that are going into storage to air dry for any length of time to stabilize, generally have both end grains sealed or painted promptly to slow down the rapid transference of moisture through the end grain to reduce the degree of cracking/splitting until the moisture content of the wood stabilizes to the environment. Even though care has been taken, small end checking or splits can and are likely to happen. I would also add that cutting off or sealing the end grain from this transference does not mean that moisture will stop from entering or leaving the material, it only slows it down. In addition, sealing only one end of the material in some instances can actually make cracking worse.

If I was to offer a couple of suggestions to end seal your round, you might consider getting a can of quality shellac, a can of lacquer thinner and a package of disposable brushes. In the cabinet / furniture trades, shellac is used as a sanding sealer prior to top coating with other finishes and provides a uniform base to work from. Besides it lower cost, it penetrates deeply into most woods other than dense hardwoods, dries very quickly and seals the base wood pores reasonably well. Depending on the "cut" of your can of shellac, you can thin it by adding two to as many as five equal parts of thinner.

Thinning the shellac provides a couple of benefits, longer working time, deeper penetration. Another option would be to use a dedicated sealant. Though more expensive, they are excellent products and seal extremely well. The downside to some of these sealers other than cost is that when used on end grain, the length of time it can take them to fully dry before top coating. It can take a while because of how they cure and how deep they penetrate. I've seen some that have taken well over a week given temps and conditions to fully dry and if you top coat too soon, the off gassing from curing can bugger up your top finishes.

If you opt for shellac, I would suggest you sand the face of the round well prior to shellac, blow any dust out of the pores and intermittently sand between coats as needed until the ends are well sealed. You should be able to seal it reasonably well within a day.

Regarding dedicated sealers, since many have different properties follow the directions and drying times given on the can.

As an alternative top coat to some urethanes type finishes, you might also consider using a quality spar varnish for a couple of reasons. Marine grade spar varnishes tend to penetrate and seal wood extraordinarily well from moisture, they can be thinned for longer working time, are less prone to cracking, are easy to apply and also freshen up after much use.

Installing a "Dutchman" to stop a small split from becoming larger is a different topic that I won't go into............

My apologies for being long winded, I have tried to be as concise as possible while hopefully offering some insight and help realizing that this is a leather working and not a wood working forum.

I hope that some of it may be of benefit to you and those considering this type of project.

Regards,

N.A.T.